Member Since: 28 Jun 2019
Location: Virginia
Posts: 318
Official Land Rover Axle Nut "Looks Different"
So I have been buying these cheap axle nuts the ones you have to stake to lock in place. Recently when changing my upper/lower Ball Joints I noticed that due to them being cheap, the thickness of the nut on the top ring that gets staked was thin. So thin in fact that when I "staked" it the metal broke vice just bending to lock in. As I removed the passenger side hub I noted that the nut had turned out of the groove due to this issue. Unfortunately I had purchased the same cheap axle nuts to replace after my repair, and again the top ring cut instead of just bending.
Now, I have purchased and am going to install the Official Land Rover Nut from Atl. British on each hub, with a torque wrench that I bought that will do a 300Nm torque range, (Axle nut @ 230Nm) my old Torque wrench only went to 200Nm.
This nut style has a segmented top with large gaps in it. I am assuming that these correct stlye nuts do not need to the staked in place, because if the slot in the axle lines up with the open gap, they are rather large, then I will have nothing to stake and the nut top is quite robust/think.
Here's the part: https://www.roverparts.com/driveline-axles.../LR024151/
To confirm I am assuming that I just tighten to 230Nm and it will be locked in place, not staking required.
Is that correct?
Further Altantic British also sells the cheap nut I used. https://www.roverparts.com/driveline-axles...RFD500020/
Now I didn't buy my nuts, from AB so I can't and am not saying these style nuts are a problem. I got mine at rock auto parts.2005 Land Rover D3, 4.4L V8, Maya Gold Metallic
1966 Scout 800, 196 cu.in.
1975 Scout II, 392 cu.in.
10th Jun 2020 6:35 pm
darrind
Member Since: 04 Jul 2008
Location: In A World of My Own!
Posts: 2889
from my experience wiht this in the past with a TDV6 Auto there are two types - important to check what you have as not interchangeable easy to identity if you check the thread as the later ones have a different thread for later style shafts.
This sounds like you have later nuts (LR024151) and early style shafts which probably need (RFD500020)Must stop buying shiny toys....
10th Jun 2020 6:53 pm
Ruper
Member Since: 28 Jun 2019
Location: Virginia
Posts: 318
Jeez WHAT
I guess my issue is that I think the shafts were replaced.
Sounds like I have the wrong nuts... Free Nuts you will need to pick them up in the US.
I guess the nuts I have go with a cotter pin probably.
Well thanks for the info saves me cussing as I put the wheels back on after finding out I have the wrong nuts.2005 Land Rover D3, 4.4L V8, Maya Gold Metallic
1966 Scout 800, 196 cu.in.
1975 Scout II, 392 cu.in.
10th Jun 2020 8:16 pm
Sea Raider
Member Since: 01 Nov 2016
Location: None
Posts: 4450
Member Since: 28 May 2014
Location: Belfast
Posts: 497
The nut you have is the wrong type.
It's called a castellated nut and is designed for those axles that have a hole through them to take a split pin instead of being staked. When you fit them you would torque them up and then back them off until the hole and nearest slot line up to fit the split pin.
Stake nuts are easier to use, but as you've found out, need to be good quality. However, their draw back is the difficulty in removing them and avoiding damaging the threads on the axle.
If your axle doesn't have a hole in it, then you need RFD500020.
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