Member Since: 18 Jul 2007
Location: Tramore
Posts: 97
Wallowy ride 2.0
Bodsy had a thread last year about his wallowy ride, it and other threads on th esame subject seemed to point to the shock absorbers in the strut assembly
So recently I changed all four on mine (airbag and strut assembly) since I had well over 250,000km on the vehicle and I reasoned that they should be well worn by now.
Well although it helped a small bit, it still feels like there is too much body roll.
so what else could it be? I'm told by my mechanic (too lazy/busy to do it myself!) that all the bushes are not too bad except the hydro bushes (?)
I'm wondering though if anti-roll bars ever need replacing or maybe the anti roll bar links?
I know its not that scientific, but to me it feels like the back is looser than the front.
Any ideas?
15th Oct 2016 6:52 pm
RBS6K
Member Since: 05 Dec 2015
Location: Tipperary
Posts: 28
Hi Andy,
I don't think that there are anti roll bars. There is dynamic stability controls in the EAS. I have noticed that mine gets a bit wallowy when the air pressure gets low. This in my case seems to be due to one of the valves in the front block leaking air back into the system coupled with a warn compressor.
I did change the bushes on the back which stopped some over steer.
Try raising the suspension then dropping it back to normal and see if the ride stiffens for a while.
Richie
15th Oct 2016 9:02 pm
hgrimmett
Member Since: 11 Oct 2009
Location: Bledlow
Posts: 901
There ARE anti-roll bars, one in front and one behind. AFAIK there are no stability protocols in the EAS on a Disco3, I think you're thinking of the adaptive stability available on the RRS?
I found that there was a broken droplink off the ARB on one side at the back when i had a wallowy ride and it's also worth have a full alignment check?-------------------------------------------------------------------
D4 '15 (64) Se Tech Indus Silver
Tesla Model Y LR (22)
Audi TT Roadster 225 (52)
Tesla Model 3 LR (70) (gone)
Porsche Boxster '96 2.5 5spd project (P)
Mini R52 S (54)
BMW 330e eDrive MSport '16 (gone)
D3 '07 (56) XS TDV6 Buckingham Blue (gone)
16th Oct 2016 6:25 pm
AndyGreen
Member Since: 18 Jul 2007
Location: Tramore
Posts: 97
I tried the lowering and highering the suspension, and it makes no difference. I have had a full alignment done several times and although if they get it wrong (many so called alignment shops havent a clue it seems about 4x4s) you can tell, mine has ben lik ethis for a few years now, I kinda got used to it but if I drive someone elses disco3 I notice it feels quite different, and more 'planted'.
I had a look, definately got ARB's! I was wondering do anti roll bars ever lose their torsional stiffnes or is it all about bushes etc. maybe I should just change all the bushes to do with both ARBs.
What about Polybushes? How much do they really improve 'handling' roll etc, or do they just make the ride harsher?
Andy
18th Oct 2016 7:30 pm
hgrimmett
Member Since: 11 Oct 2009
Location: Bledlow
Posts: 901
I personally wouldn't do SuperPro, the rubber bushes are there to soak up vibration and shock, if they aren't there to do that job they just pass the force on to another component.
Do check the droplinks as they do break meaning that the ARBs are ineffective.-------------------------------------------------------------------
D4 '15 (64) Se Tech Indus Silver
Tesla Model Y LR (22)
Audi TT Roadster 225 (52)
Tesla Model 3 LR (70) (gone)
Porsche Boxster '96 2.5 5spd project (P)
Mini R52 S (54)
BMW 330e eDrive MSport '16 (gone)
D3 '07 (56) XS TDV6 Buckingham Blue (gone)
18th Oct 2016 8:55 pm
podal
Member Since: 29 Nov 2014
Location: Ljubljana
Posts: 1
I had problems with wallowy ride, tramlining... In 2 years I changed all roll bar bushes and front lower bushings because they had a little play - same ride. Then changed front air suspension struts and steering track rod end ball joints - same ride. Tried lowering and rising suspension, playing with tire inflation- same problem. Done suspension geometry twice. Checked play in bushes several times...
Last month I bougt winter tires Pirelli Scorpion Winter and surprise suprise, everything is 90% better!!
Tires I have replaced was Michelin Tour HP with still 5mm treads but apparently they were shot.
I almost bought entire set of bushings + rear struts for total rebuild.
28th Oct 2016 8:20 pm
AndyGreen
Member Since: 18 Jul 2007
Location: Tramore
Posts: 97
Ok so since my last post I have changed all four air suspension assemblies, and checked alll bushes, ended up changing the rear anti roll bar drop linkage and bushes as the y wer pretty bad, but the suspension still seems very wallowy and seems to lean too far when cornering and if the road camber is undulating it really feels quite bad, almost like a Disco 1 with knackered shocks!
Just wondering could it be something like the air suspension valve bodies sticking open - is there a cross linkage air path that could do this if the valve was stuck open?
The valve bodies are €100 odd a pop so dont want to go changing them randomly. Can the IID tool diagnose this sort of thing?
Last edited by AndyGreen on 29th Dec 2016 1:20 pm. Edited 1 time in total
28th Dec 2016 9:20 pm
Iceman08
Member Since: 22 Sep 2014
Location: Hereford
Posts: 2284
I remember reading a thread recently where a member changed his air struts but it didn't make much difference to his handling, he then read there was a certain procedure for installing the new struts which he didn't follow.
He then removed the bottom of the strut and re fitted following the correct procedure and said the difference it made was massive.
Something to do with jacking the arm up before tightening the new strut to it...........I'll have a look!
28th Dec 2016 10:31 pm
Iceman08
Member Since: 22 Sep 2014
Location: Hereford
Posts: 2284
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8072
You don't say what size tyres you have or what pressure is in them!It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
28th Dec 2016 10:46 pm
AndyGreen
Member Since: 18 Jul 2007
Location: Tramore
Posts: 97
Cheers for the link Iceman, I was actually too busy (Lazy!!) to change the shocks myself so I got a local LR independant to do it. He's worked on these vehicles for years so its unlikely he fitted them wrong.
(I know if an 'amateur' started to question stuff I know about in work though it wouldn't be long before I got annoyed though so need to tread carefully!) I may show him the thread though or borrow a lift and check myself, as the bolts should still be free enough.
M3DPO, regarding tyres, I have General Grabber AT 255/60 18" on it since the summer, pressures are 33F 36R. However I have had GG GTs and Pirellis amongst others in the past so I know how the feel differs and this is nothing like it.
If you are driving over a road that has an undulating camber and the car rolls to one side it seems to 'kick back' the other way.
29th Dec 2016 1:16 pm
AndyGreen
Member Since: 18 Jul 2007
Location: Tramore
Posts: 97
I got the front suspension arms, inc hydro bushes (and a pair of wheel bearings) done last week, height sensors recalibrated, but still have the twitchy side- to side feeling when driving, particularly on roads with a varing camber.
I am seriousy thinking that it can only be the front and/ or rear valve blocks which may be leaking internally so that air is being expelled from one airbag as you go over a bump and this is being leaked through a leaky cross valve and pushing theother side's suspension airbag Sound feasible?
Some who I spoke to say it couldn't be that or there would be suspension fault lights etc, which I dont have. Others say it could be, and wouldt necessarily cause a fault light. Can't think what else it could be as virtually everything else to do with the suspension has been changed if worn, including all four struts and arbags and the compressor was rebuilt and serviced a year and a bit ago.
25th Jan 2017 11:01 pm
hgrimmett
Member Since: 11 Oct 2009
Location: Bledlow
Posts: 901
I think it's unlikely to be the valveblocks, they only seem to leak due to dust from the air dryer getting into the system and preventing the valves sealing in the block. They don't leak so much air as to affect handling otherwise I suspect your suspension would be dropping rapidly when parked up.
You don't say whether the car's had a full 4 wheel alignment recently? I guess it must have with the new front wishbones but it needs a full alignment doing not just tracking?-------------------------------------------------------------------
D4 '15 (64) Se Tech Indus Silver
Tesla Model Y LR (22)
Audi TT Roadster 225 (52)
Tesla Model 3 LR (70) (gone)
Porsche Boxster '96 2.5 5spd project (P)
Mini R52 S (54)
BMW 330e eDrive MSport '16 (gone)
D3 '07 (56) XS TDV6 Buckingham Blue (gone)
26th Jan 2017 10:44 pm
AndyGreen
Member Since: 18 Jul 2007
Location: Tramore
Posts: 97
Yes it had a four wheel alignment after the wishbones, but the 'side to side' rocking motion is pretty much the same as it was before all the recent work was done, including tte four suspension assemblies (everything was genuine Land Rover parts). There isnt really a lot left to change that I can think of, my local LR Indie says the anto roll bars and bushes are all fine at the front, and the rear bushes and drop links were changed, which helped a bit with the general handling
27th Jan 2017 12:08 pm
Sidestick
Member Since: 22 Apr 2012
Location: Rome
Posts: 2288
Mine was suffering side to side roads, after replacing the steering wheel rods everything goes tight and ride quality increase massively - Easy-Lift suspension module 4.0
- GoodWinch 9500 lb
- Full underbody protections
- Tree/Rock sidebars
- Prospeed roofrack & ladder
- Compressor guard
- Raised Air Intake
- Driving lights (2+4)
- 50 mm Waffle boards
- Altox Heater control
- Overland Rooftop Tent
- Rear seats entertainment
- Front & Rear camera
- GVIF
- Removable tow bar
- Cubby box fridge
- BFG KO2 265/65R17
- iidTool BT
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
