Member Since: 12 Feb 2009
Location: Matlock, Derbyshire
Posts: 106
Water in fuel warning light
The water in fuel warning light came on a few weeks ago on my D4 2012, so drained the fuel filter as per workshop manual.
This had no effect so ordered a new fuel filter and fitted that the following week, but again the warning light was still illuminated.
In desperation ordered a replacement sensor from dealers and fitted that but still have the warning light on.
Does this warning light have to be reset or should it clear after fault removed?
I have checked the workshop manual electrical schematics and for some reason the water in fuel sensor is not detailed in any of them just fuel pump and fuel level sensors??
Wondered if it could be a loom plug/socket problem somewhere and if anyone had a problem with this circuit?
20th Jan 2016 8:09 pm
motolite
Member Since: 18 Mar 2013
Location: Sydney
Posts: 931
Member Since: 12 Feb 2009
Location: Matlock, Derbyshire
Posts: 106
Hi Motolite, the link you have given goes to turbo problems?
I had a look at the problem again yesterday with our faultmate MSV2 and cleared all error codes but still have the warning light on with message, so it obviously does not need to be reset.
Checked the sensor with multimeter that was removed and basically its just a wire terminating into a metal end that is fitted in a threaded plastic mousing to screw into the fuel filter, so that was a waste of 40 odd quid!
It looks like the sensor circuit must be quite sensitive and I think your thoughts that the complete filter housing being changed solved the problem. The wiring for the water in fuel sensor system passes through this moulding and any breakdown in insulation would result in the sensing circuit changing resistance, which I guess is how they are implementing this design.
24th Jan 2016 1:34 pm
motolite
Member Since: 18 Mar 2013
Location: Sydney
Posts: 931
Quote:
Last month or so ago it started to do it at almost every start. Fix was easy - change fuel filter housing, the one I bought came with a new filter and sensor as well.
Haven't had the fault reoccur since.
Probably not the best link and the info was hidden. Never nice throwing money away and not resolving an issue. Good luck.
24th Jan 2016 8:12 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20732
I have cured this by unplugging the electrical connector to the filter housing. Not advisable for long term use, but will determine if the housing is at fault My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 12 Feb 2009
Location: Matlock, Derbyshire
Posts: 106
Disconnected sensor as suggested Disco Mikey and warning light/message was cleared. So changed the filter housing as complete unit and all now sorted. What a pain though, not a great deal of room another reason to buy a 4 post lift!!
I can move my new trailer now!!
Click image to enlarge
29th Jan 2016 10:24 pm
skipyskiphire
Member Since: 02 Feb 2008
Location: Warwickshire
Posts: 29
For what they're worth, these are my observations/opinions for the dreaded, intermittent 'Water in Fuel' warning when there is clearly NO water in the fuel.
I opted for the 'Replacement Fuel Filter Housing with Water Sensor Wire Repair Kit', from JGS 4x4.
This is the part that the Fuel Filter screws up into, which incorporates the fuel inlet/outlets and the Water in Fuel Sensor and Wiring.
If you are getting the above warning AND there is no water in the Fuel Filter, then it is more likely that THIS is the part that you need, rather than the probe that fits onto the bottom of the Fuel Filter (However, note my 'Two weeks later' comments towards the end of this post).
I class myself as just above novice and I warn you, that IMHO, this is quite a difficult job and not for the faint hearted, as it seems to me as if Land Rover attached the Fuel Filter Housing and metal bracket to the chassis and then built the rest of the car around it!
I managed to do it without completely removing the metal bracket that holds the Fuel Filter Housing in place and without dropping the crossmember…… It ‘may’ be easier to do either or both of the above, but either way, space is limited, and it is fiddly.
I would strongly recommend using a 7mm Ratchet Spanner and you may need a telescopic magnet tool for retrieving any lost screws (that’s me being pessimistic from my experience).
Once you have access to the Fuel Filter, disconnect the two wiring plugs (the larger one from the wiring loom and the smaller one from the probe fitted to the bottom of the Fuel Filter).
Some may differ in opinion, but I found it easier to remove both the Fuel Filter and the two bolts that hold the metal bracket in place (you can see/feel the bolts in the area just this side of the base of the filter), as doing so gives you a few more valuable mm to play with.
I then bent the top of the metal bracket (which holds the Fuel Filter Housing in place) down slightly and used the 7mm ratchet spanner to undo the three self-tapping screws which hold the top of the Fuel Filter Housing to the metal bracket, being careful not to drop the screws (if you do, curse and use the magnet to poke around inside the crossmember gaps below the base of the metal bracket).
There are two Fuel Pipes attached to the top of the Fuel Filter Housing, and you need to squeeze a certain soft rubbery part of the fitting to release the clip whilst gently pulling the fitting away from the housing. The nearest one is simple enough, but the rear one is a bit hit and miss, just keep squeezing whilst pulling until you find that soft spot........ The Filter Housing should now lift out.
The 7mm screws that fit into the top of the housing are self-tapping rather than fine threaded, so re-fitting them into the new housing can be 'trying' due to the lack of space and thread. I found it marginally easier to 1. Insert the screws into the new housing and then remove them ‘before’ re-fitting the housing (to start the self-tapping process) and 2. Start by replacing the nearest screw first (to line up the holes) and then work back to the middle one and then the rear one, for which I used a tiny spot of grease to hold the screw into the spanner, otherwise you risk dropping it..... again!
Replace the Fuel Pipes by sliding them back onto the fitting until you feel a reassuring click. Start with the rear one, which again, is more difficult than the nearer.
Replace the two bolts that secure the metal bracket in place, note that at the rear right hand bottom corner of the metal bracket, there is a lip that must be slotted over the lip on the chassis to 1. hold the rear of the bracket in place and 2. enable the two bolt holes to line up. If you look up from underneath the car in this area, you can see what I mean.
Replace the Fuel Filter and re-connect the two wiring plugs.
At this point, I turned the ignition on and off two or three times, to prime the Fuel Filter, checked for leaks, found none, and started the engine....... Woof…… Sorted!
*******************************
Two weeks later and touch wood, all was well. So, I took a closer look at the old Fuel Filter Housing to see if I could ascertain what was wrong with it.
The wiring plugs both looked sound and clean, and the four wires enter a unit that fits on the top of the Fuel Filter Housing. Again, the wiring looks sound, with good continuity from the plugs to the sealed unit.
The unit itself is well sealed and inaccessible. I prised/cut it open, and it contains a circuit board.
This unit is attached to the top of the Fuel Filter Housing and held in place with one TX20 screw. This screw also secures an earth connection, which in turn connects to a spring wire that connects to the top of the metal Fuel Filter when it is screwed tightly in place. It is rudimentary but functional.
I did note that the earth connection (as described above) was slightly corroded on both the top and the underside and as such, continuity between the metal spring and the connector was a tad intermittent. As such, this 'may', I repeat 'may' be the problem and all could be cleaned with emery paper and contact cleaner.
However, if the fault lies within the sealed circuit board, that's it and you will need the new part.
Personally, for the sake of £62 or so, the time involved and because it is (touch wood) proven, I would replace the Fuel Filter Housing, but if you like working under cars, cleaning the earth connector, spring wire and screw might be worth a go and let us know if it works long term!
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