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troverman
Member Since: 09 Sep 2008
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 51
  
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Yesterday afternoon we had some faults; it did go into extended again, this time the front and the back. Last night I got it to lower using the switch and it has had no faults last evening and this morning so far. Going to see if the bugs work themselves out; it is drivable. Current Rovers:
2005 LR3 V8 SE
1992 Range Rover County
1997 Range Rover 4.0SE
Previous Rovers:
2000 Discovery II SD
1995 Range Rover 4.0SE
1992 Range Rover County
Also Current:
2012 Volkswagen GTI 2.0 TSI
1995 Mercedes-Benz E320
1999 Audi A8 4.2 quattro
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 16th Jul 2009 1:14 pm |
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franksfi
Member Since: 27 Aug 2009
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 2
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troverman. I am from NH too and after going to the dealership to have tires replaced am getting a yellow suspension fault light. I get it almost every time I drive it.
Does anyone have any suggestions on where/what to check? I have done vehicle work before, but never on my Land Rover. It just came off of warranty at the end of 2008, so I never had reason to mess around with it.
Also, can anyone recommend a good repair manual for it?
Thanks....
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| 27th Aug 2009 5:45 pm |
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troverman
Member Since: 09 Sep 2008
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 51
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franksfi,
The orange fault light can be so many things. Probably the most obvious is one of the four height sensors at each wheel. Even after 'fixing' the compressor myself, we still get on and off fault warnings, sometimes the orange fault, sometimes the red 'do not drive over 30mph' fault. We are guessing the problem is a faulty height sensor or perhaps one of the three valve blocks. I haven't done it, but I guess you could remove the height sensor and measure the resistance in ohms for each one, finding the one that measures incorrectly and just replace it yourself. No sure how you would test a valve block, they are activated by solenoid. You use Land Rover of Bedford presumably? Have them diagnose the problem, they will charge you $100 for the diagnosis. There is no harm in driving with the orange warning on. Where in NH are you from, by the way? I'm from Claremont. Current Rovers:
2005 LR3 V8 SE
1992 Range Rover County
1997 Range Rover 4.0SE
Previous Rovers:
2000 Discovery II SD
1995 Range Rover 4.0SE
1992 Range Rover County
Also Current:
2012 Volkswagen GTI 2.0 TSI
1995 Mercedes-Benz E320
1999 Audi A8 4.2 quattro
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| 27th Aug 2009 6:53 pm |
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franksfi
Member Since: 27 Aug 2009
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 2
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troverman, thanks! That is a sensible tip, and yes Land Rover Bedford is where I go.
I am from Derry, although I have a cousin that lives in your area.
I did take a quick peek underneath and saw a small box with a rod coming up out of it. There was one near all four tires, so I am assuming those are the height sensors.
Thanks again for the quick response.
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| 28th Aug 2009 2:49 am |
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troverman
Member Since: 09 Sep 2008
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 51
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I would have to say "Fixed." Two Saturdays ago, I removed all the height sensors to try and see if one had a different reading. Everything seemed normal on the meter except that the RF sensor moved very stiffly while the others moved very smoothly. Convinced that a height sensor wasn't the problem, I removed the compressor assembly again. I took apart everything except for the compressor motor, including the exhaust valve / spring assembly, dryer, reservoir valve block, etc. I couldn't see anything wrong but I did test both the valve block solenoid and pilot exhaust valve solenoids by applying 12V to them. Both worked fine! Feeling really disgusted about the amount of time spent seemingly finding nothing I was screwing the pilot exhaust valve solenoid back into place when one screw didn't seem to want to tighten down. Long story short, it was partially stripped out and did not seal tightly against an o-ring, and I never noticed the first time I took it apart. I used three washers and screwed it in, this time it sealed tightly. It has been over a week and no faults. I have raised and lowered the system many times to test it--NO FAULTS! Before it would give a fault many times a day. Apparently when the solenoid released air into the exhaust valve, some never made it there, escaping past the o-ring. Not enough pressure built up to lower the system, and it would fault, or go into extended more, or have the back up higher than the front. So now I can say I have fixed the system myself, no dealer needed! Current Rovers:
2005 LR3 V8 SE
1992 Range Rover County
1997 Range Rover 4.0SE
Previous Rovers:
2000 Discovery II SD
1995 Range Rover 4.0SE
1992 Range Rover County
Also Current:
2012 Volkswagen GTI 2.0 TSI
1995 Mercedes-Benz E320
1999 Audi A8 4.2 quattro
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| 14th Sep 2009 8:46 pm |
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troverman
Member Since: 09 Sep 2008
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 51
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Feels great. Its usually a very unsatisfactory experience spending money at the dealer for service, especially for diagnostic work. The rover is still running great, no suspension faults. Current Rovers:
2005 LR3 V8 SE
1992 Range Rover County
1997 Range Rover 4.0SE
Previous Rovers:
2000 Discovery II SD
1995 Range Rover 4.0SE
1992 Range Rover County
Also Current:
2012 Volkswagen GTI 2.0 TSI
1995 Mercedes-Benz E320
1999 Audi A8 4.2 quattro
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| 15th Sep 2009 9:19 pm |
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1784
Member Since: 04 Sep 2009
Location: Almunge
Posts: 137
  
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I vill try to take out the compressor assembly from our D3 in the weekend to try to establish why we get a fault code on the exhaust valve. A few questions around this:
1. Is there a need to depressurise the reservoir and airsprings? Aren't they behind closed valves so should be able to remain inflated?
2. By putting 12v to the pilot exhaust valve the "gallery" should be vented making the compressor assembly at ambient pressure?
3. Is the exhaust valve spring very "strong", meaning something that can shoot out and hurt you 
Thanks!
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| 13th Jan 2010 1:25 pm |
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troverman
Member Since: 09 Sep 2008
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 51
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1784:
Don't worry about air pressures in the system...I usually loosen the air lines that go to the valve block near the compressor, and when you do this some air will start blowing out. I think it is air from the reservoir..just let it drain out before completely removing the fitting. Your vehicle will stay at whatever height it is at, however as the corner valve blocks prevent air from escaping out of the springs.
As for the exhaust valve, I'm not exactly sure how you would apply 12V directly to it without cutting into the wires that power it. It is simply a solenoid that pulls back against spring pressure to allow air to escape when your D3 lowers. The spring is not super strong, no worries about it blasting out as long as you're careful. In fact, one of the problems was that the spring wasn;t strong enough to hold air pressure on original D3 compressors...subsequent revisions contain a stronger spring. I wouldn't be surprised if simply taking it apart and re-assembling everything tightly would cure your fault problem.
That said, my original compressor did finally die...piston wear on the bore caused cylinder enlargement, leading to insufficient pressure being generated. Last month I purchased a new compressor for about $800US and installed it myself. I also bought the Bearmach "Hawkeye" tool with LR3 adapter (also $800US) so I can read and reset most Land Rover specific faults, including the suspension. Good luck Current Rovers:
2005 LR3 V8 SE
1992 Range Rover County
1997 Range Rover 4.0SE
Previous Rovers:
2000 Discovery II SD
1995 Range Rover 4.0SE
1992 Range Rover County
Also Current:
2012 Volkswagen GTI 2.0 TSI
1995 Mercedes-Benz E320
1999 Audi A8 4.2 quattro
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| 13th Jan 2010 4:48 pm |
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1784
Member Since: 04 Sep 2009
Location: Almunge
Posts: 137
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Thanks troverman for quick and good advice! Btw, that goes for the complete thread as well 
I know my compressor unit was changed before I bought the D3 and it looks quite new and clean compared to other components in the same cover, so I'm thinking it should not be worn out yet, but can of course be broken anyway.
To activate the exhaust valve, I just applied 12v to the two relevant pins the connector in the compressor housing, after disconnecting the "supply" end coming from the EAS module.
There are three dealers in a 120km radius here, one is well known for being useless and not interested in LR at all, second one has broken their IDS and the third one has several weeks waiting time so that in combination with curiosity inspires me to do some own investigation.
I have the Faultmate FCR to read and clear codes.
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| 13th Jan 2010 7:49 pm |
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caverD3
Member Since: 03 Jul 2006
Location: Oberon, NSW
Posts: 6922
  
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Early model D3s have a bung at the front of the air resevoir that will let the air out slowly.
Check the dryer to see if the desicant has got damp and hard. “There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely gamesâ€
Ernest Hemmingway
D4 3.0 Active Diff, Adaptive Lights, High Beam Assist, Surround Cameras, Privacy Glass.
D3 2.7:Adaptive Headlights,Electronic Rear Diff,ARB Bar,Blaupunkt Speakers,JVC Powered Subwoofer,Removable Snorkel,Mitch Hitch,Pioneer After Market Head Unit,Steering Wheel Control Adaptor,Remote Adjustable Supension Rod System, Taxside Dual Battery System.
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| 13th Jan 2010 11:34 pm |
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gedaso
Member Since: 10 Aug 2009
Location: Australia
Posts: 72
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Caver, if you loosen off the bung on the reservoir, do you need to apply thread sealant/teflon tape on it before tightening it back up (to stop leaks) ?
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| 17th Feb 2010 11:06 pm |
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caverD3
Member Since: 03 Jul 2006
Location: Oberon, NSW
Posts: 6922
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No it has an O ring and a flat side to let you bleed the air off slowly.
A little silcone spray or grease if you like. “There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely gamesâ€
Ernest Hemmingway
D4 3.0 Active Diff, Adaptive Lights, High Beam Assist, Surround Cameras, Privacy Glass.
D3 2.7:Adaptive Headlights,Electronic Rear Diff,ARB Bar,Blaupunkt Speakers,JVC Powered Subwoofer,Removable Snorkel,Mitch Hitch,Pioneer After Market Head Unit,Steering Wheel Control Adaptor,Remote Adjustable Supension Rod System, Taxside Dual Battery System.
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| 17th Feb 2010 11:32 pm |
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evo8
Member Since: 29 Jan 2008
Location: Zalesie
Posts: 289
 
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please - does anyone have a picture/diagram or guide how to access the valve blocks (front/rear) - I would like to check for leaks myself as the dealer is useless. 2013 D4 TDV6 S; Baltic Blue; IID Tool BT
2007 D3 TDV6 SE, Auto; club Faultmate MSV2
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| 19th Feb 2010 10:26 am |
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01coccobet
Member Since: 23 Feb 2009
Location: on air
Posts: 2624
 
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great job.....
thank figuring it out!!!!
the best feeling:getting airborne.
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| 20th Feb 2010 3:35 pm |
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