Member Since: 15 Aug 2009
Location: NE Victoria
Posts: 141
catweasel wrote:
garrycol wrote:
Faultmate can only raise or lower the car a small amount for diagnosis purposes.
it can raise or lower +/- 25mm and some have gained as much as 30-35mm gain. it can be changed on the move and is not just for diagnostic purposes. with a small mechanical mod you can gain a 50mm height increase although I dont see the need to travel at off road height above 50kmph except for a few instances. it is also used for servicing and maint of the D3 not just diagnostics. were the cost of the LLAMS much cheaper I could see the point much like the BBS service reset tool but for an occasional use tool I find it expensive. not bagging its development or use but I cant see its justification. sorry for the opposing veiw, I understand that is not allowed but I like breaking rules.
Horses for courses catweasel.
with respect.
IF you used the D3 for the purpose it was intended as many of us Aussies do then your comment "I dont see the need to travel at off road height above 50kmph except for a few instances" would seem ridiculous. If however you use your vehicle to play around with and to "service and diagnose things" then I guess you know best. The "occasional use" mentioned would for me, be the faultmate NOT the Llams unit. When offroad, I travel with the Llams up to at least +30 all the time regardless. If I need to and that happens most of the time once we get 'into the bush' the car travels at +50 - if we encounter circumstances that need the inclusion of the LR commitment of another 50mm then its at our fingertips and yes or no we don't need that height after 40/50kl/hr. At that point Llams looks after us. Ground clearance is not the D3's strong point (even with Llams) when you're travelling with other 'raised and modified club vehicles'. When I tow my offroad van on other than bitumen roads - the D3 travels at +30, so that the consistant washaways built into our dirt roads don't cause any serious problems. I don't think you're really breaking rules with opposing views I just think maybe that you need to get out of the shed a bit.
dj
13th Apr 2011 10:11 am
~Rich~
Member Since: 16 Mar 2009
Location: Sydney
Posts: 628
Quote:
Horses for courses catweasel.
with respect.
IF you used the D3 for the purpose it was intended as many of us Aussies do then your comment "I dont see the need to travel at off road height above 50kmph except for a few instances" would seem ridiculous. If however you use your vehicle to play around with and to "service and diagnose things" then I guess you know best. The "occasional use" mentioned would for me, be the faultmate NOT the Llams unit. When offroad, I travel with the Llams up to at least +30 all the time regardless. If I need to and that happens most of the time once we get 'into the bush' the car travels at +50 - if we encounter circumstances that need the inclusion of the LR commitment of another 50mm thenits at our fingertips
dj
Exactly it's at our fingertips!
When off road I use the LLAMS choice a lot when driving offroad, in Aus there is so many different types of terrain. Mud and Ruts like the UK but also plenty of Rock steps, High speed dirt with washouts, causeways and whoop de doo's. Sand, Bulldust etc etc.
Plug in your box Catweasel if you wish, LLAMS for me! 2014 SDV6 HSE White, LLAMS Height Controller, Tinted Glass, Tuff Ant Sliders and 18" steel wheels, Safari Snorkel, Rhino Rack Platform, ARB Air Compressor, Custom Drawer and storage unit -http://www.box.com/s/jem0ilac3cner2mexq64 UHF CB, 4x4 Intellegence RWC, 120ltr Long range tank, Rock Sliders and Compressor protection plate Beanie grill, De Tango.
13th Apr 2011 10:43 am
catweasel
Member Since: 05 May 2006
Location: Bundaleer
Posts: 4805
catweasel wrote:
Desert Traveller wrote:
And if you had a Faultmate, you could read and clear faults. The LLAMS and Faultmate are essential in the bush.
if you have a faultmate then LLAMS is obsolete.
my initial post was that I my opinion you do not need both, if you have a faultmate then you dont need the other. further replies relate to the relevant posts, please have a read.
often on here if you do not agree with the masses which on this occasion I dont then you tend to get a negative response in return
garrycol wrote:
seems to imply you are putting an opposing view for the sake of it rather than adding to the discussion
I posted my view because I can and I disagree with the previous post. to me it seems expensive for its function. some post that they set a height and then use that, why not just put in some modified rods for the trip????
Preacher wrote:
Horses for courses catweasel.
with respect.
IF you used the D3 for the purpose it was intended as many of us Aussies do then your comment "I dont see the need to travel at off road height above 50kmph except for a few instances" would seem ridiculous.
why is it ridiculous. give me all the scenarios in which you need to travel at offroad height at speed. sand,high crested dirt track, what else.
Preacher wrote:
The "occasional use" mentioned would for me, be the faultmate NOT the Llams unit. When offroad, I travel with the Llams up to at least +30 all the time regardless. If I need to and that happens most of the time once we get 'into the bush' the car travels at +50 - if we encounter circumstances that need the inclusion of the LR commitment of another 50mm then its at our fingertips and yes or no we don't need that height after 40/50kl/hr.
what you state here is easily acheivable with modified rods, not as fancy and needs a little bit of effort but just as effective
Rich wrote:
Mud and Ruts like the UK but also plenty of Rock steps, High speed dirt with washouts, causeways and whoop de doo's. Sand, Bulldust etc etc.
Plug in your box Catweasel if you wish, LLAMS for me!
mud, rocks all low speed activities. washouts will be a problem wether you have another 200mm of clearance, modify your driving as with the others mentioned. do you trear dry driving the same as driving in the wet. suspension mods wont help but in all cases attitude will.
I dont see the point of it at its current cost, uneccesary bling IMO anyway that was not the original intent of the initial post to bag the product or its affluent users.
13th Apr 2011 2:30 pm
GraemeS
Member Since: 17 Mar 2008
Location: NSW
Posts: 706
I can't justify the cost of a some extras for my vehicle for which I would have some use, but with where and how I travel and knowing what a temporay suspension lift can do for me and my vehicle, I'd have one in a flash. I had expected to have shorter rods permanently fitted and have to wear the higher COG, harsher ride and more difficult access for my wife, because the standard bump-stop and undercarriage clearance is insufficient for my use.
Yes, I make them, but I was sufficently convinced of their usefulness to others especially for travel in the Australian outback that I was prepared to invest significant money in the first minimum order quantity batch of special looms without any promise of recovering my money. Mine was hard-wired but I expected that would be unacceptable to most owners. That's now history (I'm now finally in front) and I'm pleased that those who want such a facility can have it. Those who see it as an expensive toy are not in any way encouraged to fit it.Home of LLAMS, for LRs and Jeep GCs
13th Apr 2011 10:04 pm
caverD3
Member Since: 02 Jul 2006
Location: Oberon, NSW
Posts: 6922
Graeme has done a good job with the Llams kit. Electronics was always going to be the best solution.
I do not think the cost is too high. It takes a lot of time and money to develope devices. ( I still behind with mine) The cost of the Llams kit is less than the cost of the parts for my air actuated kit alone. This made it much more expensive especially after Mitchell Bros put their ,mark up on top.
The ability to raise the vehicle by at least 30mm in all modes by just pressing a button is a needed solution and overcomes a major flaw in the D3/4s design. The Llams kit is more flexible than that and is convenient and simple to fit and use.
There are many other ways to raise a D3/4 some cheaper and some more expensive. If I didn't have my own kit I would get the Llams..“There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely gamesâ€
Ernest Hemmingway
D4 3.0 Active Diff, Adaptive Lights, High Beam Assist, Surround Cameras, Privacy Glass.
D3 2.7:Adaptive Headlights,Electronic Rear Diff,ARB Bar,Blaupunkt Speakers,JVC Powered Subwoofer,Removable Snorkel,Mitch Hitch,Pioneer After Market Head Unit,Steering Wheel Control Adaptor,Remote Adjustable Supension Rod System, Taxside Dual Battery System.
14th Apr 2011 1:08 am
Desert Traveller
Member Since: 06 Aug 2006
Location: The Gabba - QLD
Posts: 420
All to their own opinion. For me, the LLAMS system is very cheap when it is looked at in context, D3/D4 TDV6 on-road cost is $90k. See below, the reason I needed LLAMS. The cost of past repairs has been more than the cost of a LLAMS.
I also have a Faultmate.
Click image to enlarge
06 TDV6 SE with many LR and after-market extras. Used only on weekends and trips out west.
Audi TT Roadster (Daily and around town drive)
VW Eos TDI For Sale
Previously 01 TD5 and 94 TDI
14th Apr 2011 3:18 am
GraemeS
Member Since: 17 Mar 2008
Location: NSW
Posts: 706
Thanks CaverD3 for your kind words of support, particularly with you having invested time, effort and money in your solution.Home of LLAMS, for LRs and Jeep GCs
14th Apr 2011 9:03 am
catweasel
Member Since: 05 May 2006
Location: Bundaleer
Posts: 4805
caverD3 wrote:
Graeme has done a good job with the Llams kit.
never said that he hasnt, thats not in question here nor did I say there was no need but that with a Faultmate was not needed (obsolete)
caverD3 wrote:
a needed solution and overcomes a major flaw in the D3/4s design.
this is the mentality that I dont understand. people talk about extra height at speed(above 50k+) most spend much time prepping for an offroad trip so a simple change of the rods wouldnt be too much trouble surely (which is why I think IMO it is for the more affluent) and the majority of the time people (especially those 4WD GODS that get out of the shed) would be on paved surfaces.
GraemeS wrote:
Those who see it as an expensive toy
Ive never described it as a toy, bling perhaps but not a toy. Ive also never hit the bumpstops with regular driving but only on the harshest washouts when travelling too fast, I dont see why the bumpstops would be an issue unless there is something wrong with your suspension.
Desert Traveller wrote:
the reason I needed LLAMS. The cost of past repairs has been more than the cost of a LLAMS.
your picture without any background info explains little. you can only raise the vehicle so much and damage will still occur. in extended mode (which is where you will be with you +50 setting)the suspension is no longer that but just rods with little flexibility making offroading unpleasant and in some instances worse. I can understand maintaining offroad height in dunes and crested dirt tracks but the other stuff just doesnt make sense to me.
caverD3 wrote:
The ability to raise the vehicle by at least 30mm in all modes by just pressing a button is a needed solution
once again if you feel the need for this raise wouldnt the rod mod suffice
anyway we could debate the merits of these mods, peoples attitude to offroading or the long term prospects to the suspension etc but I can see no end just thought Id comment. good luck with the unit
19th Apr 2011 11:34 am
WayneD
Member Since: 11 Sep 2007
Location: Sydney Darwin ,Singapore, USA, UK and now country NSW
Posts: 531
May as well put my 2 cents in here. I have a set of Cavers rods and they work well, but the problem with travelling in the Australian outback is that you can be offroading one minute and back on blacktop and doing 130kph (or 155kph Jonesy) then back on dirt again to explore something else. So it is not practical to be replacing the rods time and again. I will be fitting the Llams system when I eventually get my vehicle off my son in law. Take the road less traveled. Dual battery system.ORS drawers,LR cargo Barrier.ARB Bull bar,side protection bars,Mickey Thompson ATR's 17" rims, Rear wheel carrier, radiator guard TPMS Mitchell Bros Tow Hitch LR RAI Steel Rims , GME UHF, Off Road GPS, Llams (yet to be fitted)
19th Apr 2011 12:43 pm
caverD3
Member Since: 02 Jul 2006
Location: Oberon, NSW
Posts: 6922
Yes and my rods are the easiest to change too but I agree much easier flick a switch.“There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely gamesâ€
Ernest Hemmingway
D4 3.0 Active Diff, Adaptive Lights, High Beam Assist, Surround Cameras, Privacy Glass.
D3 2.7:Adaptive Headlights,Electronic Rear Diff,ARB Bar,Blaupunkt Speakers,JVC Powered Subwoofer,Removable Snorkel,Mitch Hitch,Pioneer After Market Head Unit,Steering Wheel Control Adaptor,Remote Adjustable Supension Rod System, Taxside Dual Battery System.
19th Apr 2011 2:14 pm
Gerbur
Member Since: 27 Mar 2011
Location: Townsville
Posts: 7
[te="caverD3"]Yes and my rods are the easiest to change too but I agree much easier flick a switch.[/quote]i wish i had known about this system when i had my d3. Trips to fraser, moreton and stradbroke would have been a lot more pleasant traversing inland tracks. And my farm required slow driving to "keep it up". Who would want to have to play with suspension sensor rods all the time. It surprises me lrover haven't realised the broad use of this vehicle and modified this feature. Maybe they really are worried about cog and where of "joints".2011 sdv6 hse le
20th Apr 2011 9:13 am
catweasel
Member Since: 05 May 2006
Location: Bundaleer
Posts: 4805
WayneD wrote:
and doing 130kph (or 155kph Jonesy)
good to see you drive responsibly and also respect other road users
retarded fuckwits
20th Apr 2011 12:31 pm
caverD3
Member Since: 02 Jul 2006
Location: Oberon, NSW
Posts: 6922
“There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely gamesâ€
Ernest Hemmingway
D4 3.0 Active Diff, Adaptive Lights, High Beam Assist, Surround Cameras, Privacy Glass.
D3 2.7:Adaptive Headlights,Electronic Rear Diff,ARB Bar,Blaupunkt Speakers,JVC Powered Subwoofer,Removable Snorkel,Mitch Hitch,Pioneer After Market Head Unit,Steering Wheel Control Adaptor,Remote Adjustable Supension Rod System, Taxside Dual Battery System.
20th Apr 2011 1:13 pm
WayneD
Member Since: 11 Sep 2007
Location: Sydney Darwin ,Singapore, USA, UK and now country NSW
Posts: 531
I guess you have not been to the Northern Territory where the speed limit is 130kph on streches like the Stewart Hwy. So I would call driving to the speed limit responsible and respecting other road users. Alice Springs to Darwin is almost 1500klm with really only one other large town in between so poking along at 100klm is more a hazard to other drivers, including road trains Take the road less traveled. Dual battery system.ORS drawers,LR cargo Barrier.ARB Bull bar,side protection bars,Mickey Thompson ATR's 17" rims, Rear wheel carrier, radiator guard TPMS Mitchell Bros Tow Hitch LR RAI Steel Rims , GME UHF, Off Road GPS, Llams (yet to be fitted)
20th Apr 2011 1:14 pm
Preacher
Member Since: 15 Aug 2009
Location: NE Victoria
Posts: 141
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further replies relate to the relevant posts, please have a read.
This made it much more expensive especially after Mitchell Bros put their ,mark up on top.
