Member Since: 25 Aug 2012
Location: surrey
Posts: 261
Passenger side sunroof drain tube replacement access problem
ok....need to replace the perished front passenger side sunroof drain tube elbow/gromit as it has perished and the pipe now drains into the passenger footwell. I see lots of posts saying people have had to remove the central junction box to get at the elbow/gromit but I can't find any post that describes how the fuse box comes out. Has anyone got any tips about how to get at this elbow/gromit so that I can replace it? grateful in advance?
27th Aug 2014 6:07 pm
Downhiller
Member Since: 25 Aug 2012
Location: surrey
Posts: 261
can anyone tell me if its safe to disconnect the central junction box without the need to reprogramme anything when i reconnect it? Obviously ill disconnect the battery first. Ive managed to lower the box by removing the 2 lowest nuts holding it in.
29th Aug 2014 7:31 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Yep, safe.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 25 Aug 2012
Location: surrey
Posts: 261
cheers Robbie. Just found some posts saying the same. Dunno why i didn't see them before i asked.
29th Aug 2014 7:58 pm
Downhiller
Member Since: 25 Aug 2012
Location: surrey
Posts: 261
For anyone, like me, who is nervous about removing the apparently tightly fitted and hard to access Central Junction Box (CJB) to get behind it so that you can push a replacement sunroof drain tube through the inner wing, I've found the guidance on this forum to be brilliant. However, some knowledge is sometimes assumed. It took me ages to work out how the Central Junction Box (CJB) came out.
Obviously, to get at it you need to take out the glove box lid. After dropping the lid Its only held in with 2 plastic hinges. The pegs through the hinges need to be tapped out and replaced ( they break when they come out). I found a right angled pair of small pliers particularly useful to do this.
There are only 2 easily accessible nuts (10mm) that need to be undone to remove the CJB. They are at the bottom of the CJB. The top is held in with pegs that protrude from the top of the CJB.
Once the CJB drops, you need to disconnect 6 multi plugs. You absolutely cannot get into the area where the tube is going to go without doing this. Not unless you are Darth Vader or Yoda. 3 are on the front, 2 are on the back and one is on the bottom. Again it took me yonks to work out how these multi plugs came out. Land Rover have learned their lessons of the passed and have made the multi plugs in the D3 bomb proof! The front ones on the CJB are held on with those black plastic hinge type clamps. Don't spend ages simply pulling at these.... like I did. Look at where the hing is and simply unhinge them. This assists with the unclamping and sliding movement. Might seem obvious to some but it wasnt to me. remove the bottom blue one first as it is the easiest to access and you'll see how they work. The rear ones are of a similar design but much smaller. Put your hand behind the CJB and you will feel 2 multi plugs held in with plastic hinged clamps. They come out very easily.
Once you've disconnected everything it drops out. The sunroof drain pipe hole in the inner wing is just behind where the CJB was and about half way down the footprint that the CJB would have filled if it had been there. Scary to think that so much water has been coming through this and right next to the main CJB and all those multi plugs. After doing the new drain tube (thats the easy bit!!!) putting the CJB back in is easy if you remember that the multi plugs are colour coded with the red plugs to (Port) - right and green plugs to (starboard) - left. They obviously knew there was going to be a lot of water in there at some point!!! The bottom one is even blue as it is closest to your soaking wet carpet! Maybe an in-house Land Rover joke they played there or maybe an engineer knew the sunroof drain tube was a crap design but none would listen to him so he applied a nautical colour coding system for the electrics!
The new drain tube is a much more solid design and i highly recommend replacing them. The problems with mine started when i trimmed the end of the tube as per recommendations from others to unblock the end. This obviously began a perishing process which eventually caused it to fail.
30th Aug 2014 1:11 pm
nujjer
Member Since: 29 Aug 2012
Location: DT11 9BW
Posts: 30
This is a great post @downhiller. I have exactly the same symptom - visible water draining out of wheel arch, but soaking front and rear footwells.
I have to say that when I drop the Glove box and look at the super-tight anti-tardis space, I cant imagine getting the CJB out - but I will give it a go. I am assuming that the CJB is the thing that I would call, from looking at it, a fuse box?
Couple of questions please.
1. You say the glove box pins need replacing - did you buy these? what do I order?
2. Same question really, what do I ask for when buying the drain tube? is it a kit? or do I just buy gallons of rubber hose of a certain diameter?
OK third question - how do you join the hose to the old one with confidence?
21st Dec 2014 4:34 pm
Downhiller
Member Since: 25 Aug 2012
Location: surrey
Posts: 261
I just went into the dealer and asked for the new pins ( a couple of quid). It will actually go back together with the old pins. I only got new ones as that is what was recommended by others and didn't want the old ones working loose.
As for the pipe i also got that from the dealer. Only about 20 quid from memory. It comes as a tube with an uprated end on it that goes through the wing. Much more substantial than what came out. They had it in stock and I got the usual comment from them that they don't sell many... yeah right.!!!...the place did have big windows....I think they are trained to say such things.
21st Dec 2014 6:42 pm
ogriboy
Member Since: 01 Aug 2012
Location: spalding
Posts: 3
Downhiller -Thanks for info just completed passenger side over Christmas due to failing key fob and harness under water. Just to add the following further tips that may be useful. If you are going to go this far don't mess with the old drain tube fit a new one they have revised ends and fit better and tighter and the bulk head grommet is secured to the pipe unlike the original. Mine was disconnected at the bulkhead with pipe some 30mm short of the grommet? The tube and grommet can all be fitted from within the car no need to access the wheel arch panels.
Also only disconnect/remove the glove box door and the kick tray below as no further panel removal gains any more space. Even when the CJB is removed it is not entirely clear where the offending grommet is due to number of looms and cables present. Also check a small loom that is trapped between the frame and bullhead on mine this was showing signs of chafing and so was rebound for added protection. Fully dry loom and cill area (go for a drive also as more will flood in from the rear seat area!) and once all dried all should be good.
7th Jan 2015 11:22 am
Redgull
Member Since: 30 Aug 2013
Location: East Sussex
Posts: 1127
does anybody know how the bottom green plug comes off the CJB, and how to replace the 2 rears without being able to see anything,
3rd May 2015 6:17 pm
GTIR250
Member Since: 03 Dec 2014
Location: gone
Posts: 253
You can just see them if you lye on your back, looking up behind the cjb. From memory you can plug them in before pushing it into the fixing holes at the top.
It can really p ss you off after a while, and you'll end up with scratched hands no doubt.
AND, if you break the cjb, it's only £450 ish for a new one.
3rd May 2015 8:41 pm
Redgull
Member Since: 30 Aug 2013
Location: East Sussex
Posts: 1127
hi, got to be done , ive got a leak and it is this pipe, i put coloured water down the sunroof drain, and yep its now on the floor under the carpet
3rd May 2015 8:47 pm
Redgull
Member Since: 30 Aug 2013
Location: East Sussex
Posts: 1127
Have many people done this, ??as i can see no other way if the pipe has perished?
4th May 2015 12:43 pm
Redgull
Member Since: 30 Aug 2013
Location: East Sussex
Posts: 1127
is it ok to remove the CJB?
4th May 2015 7:15 pm
cadburysparrot
Member Since: 24 Jan 2015
Location: Surrey
Posts: 30
Great instructions Downhiller... helped no end.
28th May 2015 7:15 pm
fino
Member Since: 28 Feb 2014
Location: Middlesex/ Surrey
Posts: 163
DH, great instructions, used to help solve the damp issues as the tube elbow was perished.
For the glove box pins, I used bent nose pliers, enough to get one of the tabs squashed through. I then yanked it the other end, broke one tab (on both of the pins). Refitting just push them through, the pins still stays in place due to the other unbroken tab.
Make a mental note how and where the drain pipe runs through the 'frame' behind the CJB before removing it. I'd reconnected the CJB only to find it would squash the pipe, so undo did all the connectors again and fed drain pipe through the 'proper' tight gap and oriented the elbow so there was no twist or kinks, before reconnecting the CJB.
Connecting the tube at the sunroof end, was to remove the sun visor bolts and the roof grab handle bolts, I did also prise off the B pillar trim to allow the roof lining to drop further. Fed the drain pipe through the A pillar up and then matter of pushing in the new, where the old was previously pulled out.
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
like I did. Look at where the hing is and simply unhinge them. This assists with the unclamping and sliding movement. Might seem obvious to some but it wasnt to me. 
remove the bottom blue one first as it is the easiest to access and you'll see how they work. The rear ones are of a similar design but much smaller. Put your hand behind the CJB and you will feel 2 multi plugs held in with plastic hinged clamps. They come out very easily.
The bottom one is even blue as it is closest to your soaking wet carpet! Maybe an in-house Land Rover joke they played there or maybe an engineer knew the sunroof drain tube was a crap design but none would listen to him so he applied a nautical colour coding system for the electrics!
ss you off after a while, and you'll end up with scratched hands no doubt.
