Member Since: 07 Dec 2004
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 26701
Is the filter housing OK? There have been quite a few cases of an incorrectly fitted oil filter causing problems. If the spigot has not been properly engaged in the socket, it might have left a blockage in there?
4th Nov 2018 2:37 pm
braders
Member Since: 03 Nov 2018
Location: Cambs
Posts: 11
Wow, what a freindly forum really appreciate all the advisce. I have popped a picture on now in previous post....she's a lovely D3
Did check MOT history, printed out and took with me when i purchased it just to tie up to service history and it does all match so happy that mileage is correct. the last owner did have a long stretch between the last oil change of about 16k miles so unsure if this played a part in it.
Did check filter when removed and it was fitted correctly (I was hoping it wasnt !) and was carefull to fit the new one correctly as well.
Will borrow pressure guage tomorrow that I can fit from a freind who has one and try tomorrow evening and see what i get. If it is low I have decided to send for a pump and belt kit and fit myself in the first instance and see where it goes from there. While I am at it ill drop the sump pan to to check pick up etc and see if there is ant debris.
I still have my original issue of poor start that i am sure is glowplugs so will have a look at those at the same time. i know they can be a pain but I will tease them gently and see if they will budge, if so ill swap them out as well. Whatever the outcome I can always transfer the parts to a S/H or recon engine so nothing really lost.
Do appreciate all of the advice its given me some hope back.....
k.
4th Nov 2018 6:52 pm
Hot Tub
Member Since: 15 Aug 2017
Location: Milton Keynes
Posts: 1071
I have seen cheaper OEM parts but would sooner fit genuine as its such a big job.
Re starting, could be injectors but noticed problem in recent cold snap, she did start eventually with loads of smoke even after leaving for 30 secs after glow plug light extinguished. Its possible it could be electrical so was going the put calmp on ameter on leads to see if they were drawing current first. (this is the point I spotted the disconected oil pump switch !). I think it only has 2 maybe 3 plugs working TBH just by the way it chugged into life. When temp is a bit warmer or when engine warm it fires up with no problem.
NJSSAm I Gammon or Woke ? - I neither know nor care.
2016 Discovery 4 Landmark
2011 Mercedes Benz SL350 (R230)
1973 MG B GT V8 - 3.9L John Eales engine, 5 speed R380 gearbox, since 1975.
1959 MGA roadster - 1.9L Peter Burgess Engine - 5 speed gearbox
Past LRs - Multiple FFRs, Discos & a Series I - some petrol, some diesel,
none Electric or H2 fuel cell - yet.
There are 10 types of people in this world: Those who understand binary, and those who don’t.
4th Nov 2018 8:41 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10365
That doesn’t help it start does it.
That is an expensive oil pump. Only 150 at a Citroen dealer.
Cheaper from advanced factors.
Dayco belts are oem on these
In cold weather certainly; if the outside air temp is below 6 degrees C; the Engine temp less than 75 degrees C and there is adequate fuel the FBH should start.
NJSSAm I Gammon or Woke ? - I neither know nor care.
2016 Discovery 4 Landmark
2011 Mercedes Benz SL350 (R230)
1973 MG B GT V8 - 3.9L John Eales engine, 5 speed R380 gearbox, since 1975.
1959 MGA roadster - 1.9L Peter Burgess Engine - 5 speed gearbox
Past LRs - Multiple FFRs, Discos & a Series I - some petrol, some diesel,
none Electric or H2 fuel cell - yet.
There are 10 types of people in this world: Those who understand binary, and those who don’t.
4th Nov 2018 10:04 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10365
At factory spec, once the engine is started! And your conditions met the fbh fires up
4th Nov 2018 10:18 pm
braders
Member Since: 03 Nov 2018
Location: Cambs
Posts: 11
Bit of an update. I sent for a new pump, cambelt kit and cam locking kit and have spent a couple of hours each evening last week slowly stripping the front of the engine. This evening I finally removed the oil pump, which has been changed before, along with the cam belt, so I can only assume they were done at the same time at 50k miles in 2013.
The pump itself looks good and there is plenty of pressure on the pressure relief valve spring....not what i was hoping to see. However, after inspecting the pump it looks like some complete tool had decided to pump a load of silcone around the gasket when the re fitted it, this has now broken down and all of the debris has gone into the sump (I assume !). If you look at the pics below you can see the pump and particularly the second picure on the bottom right, the silicon has oozed out into the pump and now degraed and the smalll bits fallen off into and down into the sump.
The photos below are looking down into the front of the sump where the oil pump sits and you can see particled of silcone in there, these are quite big, up to 6mm long.
So....not good. not good at all. My only hope now is that these have been caught in the strainer in the sump...i dont hold out much hope though as the issue I have is low oil pressure (.2mb on idle cold engine !). If the strainer is blocked then it would reduce not only pressure but also flow and thats bad. When I did an oil change last wwk I did inspect the oil filetr and could not sse any debris in there....which I would have thought I would have seen tbh.
My next job, tomorrow eve will be to take the sump off and have a look, my main concern though is that bits of the silicone debris have floated about in the oil ways, especially near the cams and have blocked the journals or similar. saying that though the presure would theoretically increase. So...the plot thickens..ideally I would love to strip the whole engine and pressure wash the oil ways and rebuild it....lets hope it does not come to that !!.
10th Nov 2018 10:41 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10365
The small sump and pickup pipe are easy to remove. The gasket is reusable. (Just as well as they aren’t cheap!)
The upper sump is a fair bit of work to remove. It comes out the front.
Though you are part way there already
10th Nov 2018 11:48 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10365
Things like the dip stick tube need pulling out (but don’t remove it from the engine bay as they are a nightmare to rethread.)
Turbo drain pipe need disconnecting from upper sump.
Can’t remember if you need the front prop out to do that.
10th Nov 2018 11:54 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10365
Oh and I had to pull out two small steering pipes out the rack and drain the fluid to get clearance to pull the upper sump out the front.
Shove them back in while working on the rest of it.
10th Nov 2018 11:59 pm
DiscoJeffster
Member Since: 27 Feb 2016
Location: Perth
Posts: 204
I would suggest it’s extremely unlikely that there is enough silicone particles floating around, that haven’t sunk to the bottom of the sump, that have blocked the strainer. I think you’ll find your problem elsewhere unfortunately.
11th Nov 2018 12:38 am
braders
Member Since: 03 Nov 2018
Location: Cambs
Posts: 11
Yes, been thinking about it and its unlikely to be the strainer. I was looking for an oil flow diagram for the engine just to help me understand where the issue may be but cant seem to find anything. ill pull the lower sump pan first and have a look and take it from there. Worse case is its the main bearings gone and not creating enough back pressure, although engine does not rattle etc.. I am toying with the idea of dropping the sump completely and taking off the main bearing caps to have a look at the shells and see what they are like. I could possibly replace the mains and little ends from uner the car as I have it in bits. Appreciate i wont be dropping the crank for a regrind but if i am lucky and pop new shells in I may just get away with it. doesnt solve the silicone particle issue though and if ports blocked they will wear again.
Last edited by braders on 11th Nov 2018 2:03 am. Edited 1 time in total
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