Member Since: 11 Jun 2017
Location: Isle of Islay
Posts: 66
D3lta wrote:
I've had a good look through the loom the full length of the front passenger tread plate. I can find a red/black wire connector which I assume is completely unrelated.
I also found a green/pink 2in, 1 out splice right up near the front (under bonnet catch). Is this the right one? Not green/white so obviously questioning it.
Where the tape is in picture below cut this and delve in mine was nearer to rear door.
11th Nov 2018 9:54 pm
hillbillypop
Member Since: 11 Jun 2017
Location: Isle of Islay
Posts: 66
nthor wrote:
D3lta wrote:
Helping a friend out with their D3 today, the keys don't work at all for locking/unlocking (tried 2nd key as well).
Trying to do the green/white wire trick but I can't find the splice for the life of me in the loom.
Can anyone give a better idea of where it should be? I'm hoping it's not in the conduit. Pics for reference.
I found my join about 1/3 the way forwards of the B Post towards the A post, there are a lot of wires in the loom so have a good poke about
11th Nov 2018 9:55 pm
airmech953
Member Since: 24 Feb 2021
Location: Diamond Creek
Posts: 25
I'm new to Discovery and found this post interesting as I'm resurrecting a machine that's been off the road for a couple of years Since having the body off for routine work the previous owner couldn't start the engine again and eventually gave up on this car due to electrical problems
Looking into the defects, I found that the A pillars had leaked allowing water to flood the looms. I tried replacing the 3-wire splice which didn't help in my case.
Cleaning the body to chassis electrical connectors has restored some of the functions but I still cant start or even crank the engine. No faults show on my Gap tool. I have a number more connectors to find and clean, hopefully this will fix my problems.
The car is an 05 diesel
15th Mar 2021 1:29 pm
X26WHU
Member Since: 18 Mar 2021
Location: Chelmsford
Posts: 1
Thanks got there in the end its the smaller wires that have to be soldered there are also larger wires in the rear that go to the heated rear seats the dark green and white wires are immediately below the front seat position switches. keep looking. best of luck.
22nd Mar 2021 7:07 pm
leroymusic00
Member Since: 12 Jan 2021
Location: Carlisle
Posts: 143
Re: Remote Locking from KeyFob not working (Again)
Scott_Fred wrote:
Ok, so a few months ago I reported here that my Remote Locking from the keyfob stopped working. It didn´t work for a month, or maybe more. Tried spare key, no joy... Didnt get time to send it into the local stealer, who probably wouldn´t have a clue anyway and would use 50man hours and replace every part known to mankind.
Anyway, the point is that one day it started working again, everything was fine and dandy once again. Didnt do anything different, it just worked.
That was about a month ago, so worked for 4 or 5 weeks no problem.
Yesterday. Stopped working again. How annoying is that ?
It must be a connection somewhere on the receiver unit maybe ? Any ideas ?
Thanks.
Definitely the green / white wire. I posted a video on here where I repaired it - just check further down the wire for breaks as the wires get brittle and short if there is moisture. I followed it back to 'healthy' cable and soldered and heat shrank it. I then cut a finger off a rubber glove and taped it into that and put it back. No problems since. Mine was just blowing fuses all the time.
22nd Mar 2021 7:35 pm
drasster
Member Since: 18 Aug 2021
Location: montreal
Posts: 2
so confused....
ok so here is my story..
I bought my D3 2yrs ago and about 6 months ago my key fob started acting up..like it would open and close on its own, also my case was in really bad condition, so I decided to buy a new case and it came with a new battery, so I changed both.. right after I changed the battery and the new case, I went to go try it out.. and not working... I open the door with the key, the alarm goes on I put in my key and turn the car on. at this point the alarm shuts off.
Ever since no working key fob.. I toke the multimeter and everything from the Key fob seems to be working. the 10A fuse behind the glove department was changed. now I have been trying to trace this WHITE AND GREEN wire that everyone is talking about. apparently its a 2 to 1 connection. i have found a 2 to 2 connection as seen in the picture. now when I get the multimeter I have a connection from the fuse box to this 2 to 2 wire splice.
could it be that I need to re-sync the key fob? how do I do this? everything else seems to be working....
Last edited by drasster on 23rd Aug 2021 2:30 am. Edited 1 time in total
20th Aug 2021 7:14 pm
drasster
Member Since: 18 Aug 2021
Location: montreal
Posts: 2
MachineShedFred wrote:
Robbie wrote:
Diagram of splice SJ50 that feeds the remote locking RF Receiver and the Tyre Pressure Monitoring System from the Central Junction Box Fuse 43P :
Using the above diagram, I had the idea to use actual tools to try to find the correct junction, because I see nothing like what has been pictured in other posts here. I've spent two hours now trying to find this 3-wire green-and-white connection and I'm at a loss. Here's what I've done:
Pulled fuse 43, checked which side is the battery with a volt meter: bottom pin is 12VDC to ground on the door. Plugged a small blade screwdriver into the top pin, and used alligator clip to attach my handy Fox and Hound wire tracing kit:
I then used the wand (hound) to "listen" to each wire and see which one generated the strongest signal. I ended up with this 4-wire green / white junction:
As I had nothing else that even looked close to what has been posted, I cut it open and found a much more substantial junction than the dodgy one pictured elsewhere. I checked it for continuity to fuse 43 and there was no measurable resistance.
Am I looking in the wrong place? Could Land Rover have changed the wiring, or could this have been a dealer fix from a previous owner?
At any rate, my keyless entry only works about every 10th button press, and it's driving me (and more importantly, my fiancé) nuts.
Could I be the one LR3 owner with a different keyless entry issue? Thanks for any insight anyone can provide!
I encounter the same problem.... its a 4 to 4 wire connection all that I found. did you end up fixing this issue?
21st Aug 2021 12:33 pm
Mike Whiskey
Member Since: 23 Dec 2009
Location: Cambs
Posts: 14
Mine was 3 wires from one side, Cutting out the splice and soldering seems to have resulted in a fix.
I cut the splice apart and it seems the copper wires were broken where the wiring entered the plastic splice. Didn't look corroded. Maybe a fatigue issue instead?
Anyway, Thanks to everyone who has commented on this and similar threads. Another problem solved thanks to the forum.
MW
9th Dec 2021 4:14 pm
Ruper
Member Since: 28 Jun 2019
Location: Virginia
Posts: 318
A/C Drain Tubes
Probably not your issue here, but I had a flooded floor board passenger side NAS, I looked at drain tubes, I ran weed-eater line down, but nothing stopped the water flow.
Turns out that under the dashboard, the main front dash there are two AC condensate drains. Mine were clogged and they were flooding the floor board. I always check those whenever I am using the AC on max for short periods of time.
You will see the tube right away as they look to be corrugated, and have a small pull tab that helps pull the tubes down for draining. I used a shop vac, and there was quite a bit.2005 Land Rover D3, 4.4L V8, Maya Gold Metallic
1966 Scout 800, 196 cu.in.
1975 Scout II, 392 cu.in.
11th Jul 2022 1:26 am
Naki Blake
Member Since: 31 Dec 2021
Location: Taranaki
Posts: 236
Hi all
Just resurrecting this old thread.
Both my key fobs have stopped locking and unlocking the doors.
In the weekend I'm going to remove the passenger trim and locate the green and white wires.
But before I do this, I just want to run thus past the forum members. I charged the battery last Sunday as I hadn't driven the D3 for about 3 weeks. New Yuasa battery last year. Both fobs have stopped working since I charged the car battery. Before charging the battery I always leave the vehicle for 10 minutes after opening the bonnet to ensure it is asleep.
I didn't disconnect the battery before charging. Should I?
left it on trickle charge overnight (not a smart charger though). Is there any anyway that I could have cooked a circuit for the fob sensors? (I hope not).
Car is kept in shed at home. No sign of moisture in the sills.
I've just tried a hard reset and placed the fobs on electric toothbrush charge bases for a couple of hours.
No faults on my II D bluetooth.
Before I locate the wires any feedback would be welcome.
Thanks Blake
8th Mar 2023 4:57 am
Naki Blake
Member Since: 31 Dec 2021
Location: Taranaki
Posts: 236
You Beaut!
Located the green and white spliced wires, cut, stripped, soldered, heat shrunk, and both key fobs now work.
What a relief.
If anyone does this job in the future don't be fooled by appearances. The factory splice looked perfectly fine.
Just note, I was shocked that it was quite damp in there. Going to leave the plastic trim off, park out side in the sunshine for a few hours. I will inspect drivers side to see if any moisture in there as well. Vehicle has been parked up inside the car shed for last 3 weeks so I thought it would have been dry as a bone in there . I'm going to check my sun roof drain tubes.
I going to have a well deserved beer!
Cheers Blake
10th Mar 2023 2:41 am
Naki Blake
Member Since: 31 Dec 2021
Location: Taranaki
Posts: 236
Found the source of the water ingress. Perished elbow at bottom of sun roof drain tube.
Very well documented on this forum under "how to fix a sun roof leak"
All I would add is that I wasn't keen on removing the CJB (passenger footwear RHD). Easy to remove the front left panel and hook out the elbow from the outside. I was able to add an insert into the perished elbow to extend it. Tested and no water ingress.
Note. top side of carpet dry to touch. Under the carpet is an inch of foam, which is soaked. I've wedged the carpet up to allow air to circulate and have a domestic dehumidifier running inside the car with all doors and windows closed. Just tipped out a litre of water after running overnight.
13th Mar 2023 5:40 am
Glassmancoast
Member Since: 07 May 2023
Location: Caly
Posts: 1
Disc3/lr3 key fobs failing and sporadic behavior
Well, I think this one has been solved for me. It’s the battery voltage combined with poor connections that cause that poorly conduct causing voltage to drop. Solution drive the car more to fully charge battery or replace battery. If you let it go you’ll start to see things drop off line one by one. For me. It was the Sunroof operation then key fob. I wasn’t driving my car much to keep aging battery fully charged. Good luck. The bay is this most likely the cause. And when some people improve the connection per most of this post and improve the conductivity at splice point it does help with lower bay voltage. Replace battery or your Disco more!
7th May 2023 3:32 pm
roastbeef
Member Since: 08 Dec 2009
Location: South West France
Posts: 49
LHD loom is on the other side
So with the help here on this post I fixed my remote locking not working. It was indeed the 3 green/white wires under the plastic tread plate. My car is 2005 LHD in France. NO DAMPNESS or corrosion, dry climate, just stopped working one day.
Just be careful not to lock yourself out of your car as I did! I was so pleased with myself for fixing it that I slammed the car door after pressing the lock button on the remote, and both keys were inside!
Then I had to break in!
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I open the door with the key, the alarm goes on I put in my key and turn the car on. at this point the alarm shuts off.
