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en48
Member Since: 05 Jun 2010
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 84
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And for us less technically minded, how do you get the tread plate up / out?!
Bu66ered if I can work it out!
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 19th Mar 2011 6:59 pm |
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Randylover
Member Since: 31 Jan 2011
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 1172
 
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yes it is the one located by the passenger seat, as for the treadplate,
first remove the bottom half of the b pillar trim, you need to pill the door seals away for this, then remove the black sill cover after that i got a small prybar and by each holding lug gently prise it up, then pull out from under the edge of carpet, both the sill cover and the duct cover run front to back, they are a bit fiddly to get back but with a bit of persistence they do go,
And its definately worth a go if it gives the desired result,
Andy 05 TDV6,"S" in all colourcoded Zermatt silver,7 seats winter pack HK 6cd stereo,Dual climate,Xenons,
Mods:
Re-Con Engine,De-Tango,Reverse camera,Fog/DRl lights,Aux Battery, perm Aux socket in boot,LED Volt meters in roof panel,Built in tom tom, Strobes fitted in grille, Aux switches for trailer lights fitted in roof panel,Roof Rails,Grille conversion
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| 19th Mar 2011 9:39 pm |
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LURCHER
Member Since: 27 Jan 2007
Location: Hampshire uk
Posts: 58
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On mine it was not easy to see the offending wire join , it was buried in the centre of a large bundle of wires taped together . There was also a red wire join which was also broken .
have a dig around and you will find it ! D3 x2 D4 XS
110 Crew Cab
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| 20th Mar 2011 10:28 am |
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en48
Member Since: 05 Jun 2010
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 84
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Pants. No join.
Had to disassemble the bundle. Now carefully taped back up.
Found two dodgy looking joins - wires very tight too - but not the ones I was after...
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| 20th Mar 2011 12:44 pm |
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Tallmat
Member Since: 13 Aug 2008
Location: London
Posts: 56
 
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Please Delete
Last edited by Tallmat on 21st Mar 2011 6:30 pm. Edited 1 time in total
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| 21st Mar 2011 6:24 pm |
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Tallmat
Member Since: 13 Aug 2008
Location: London
Posts: 56
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Thanks to all, especially Randylover for posting a picture of the connector. After 4 months of on-off working, and the dealer telling me I needed two new fobs (£250 for the pair) I finally got around this weekend to lifting the treadplates, located the connector, cut it out and soldered together the 3 wires. So far, working properly.
(Some other posts said the crimp was in blue insulation tape, but I couldn't see any green/green+white cables in blue tape.)
The problem started with the car developing a nearside blocked sunroof drain, which caused flooding under the passenger footwell carpet. But it was just damp rather than anything Noah would have put his name to, so I've no idea how long it had been that way. Having cleared the drain tubes (using a hosepipe - another thread for that..) it has now dried out.
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| 21st Mar 2011 6:26 pm |
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Randylover
Member Since: 31 Jan 2011
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 1172
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No probs happy to help, for any of you who have come across the four thin red wires that terminate together, they are for the illumination to the window switches on each door, i found that first and did that ,
Andy 05 TDV6,"S" in all colourcoded Zermatt silver,7 seats winter pack HK 6cd stereo,Dual climate,Xenons,
Mods:
Re-Con Engine,De-Tango,Reverse camera,Fog/DRl lights,Aux Battery, perm Aux socket in boot,LED Volt meters in roof panel,Built in tom tom, Strobes fitted in grille, Aux switches for trailer lights fitted in roof panel,Roof Rails,Grille conversion
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| 21st Mar 2011 8:31 pm |
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miklos
Member Since: 23 Oct 2009
Location: NZ
Posts: 8
 
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Hi. Firstly thanks all, these posts have helped a lot.
So I have basically had everyone elses problem, neither fob works, then miraculously a couple of weeks ago they both started working, albeit briefly. This led me to believe the 3 green/white wires may be the issue. So I followed the posts and re-joined the wires under my treadplate. Still no luck. My receiver had a green and green/yellow wire coming out of it but I don't know if that's any different. I have also done all the fuse, relay etc checking and all seem fine.
As a last resort I decided to pull apart the key, and piggy backed a smaller 3 volt battery onto the already soldered in one. Miraculously it worked! For about 30 minutes. Then just as I was testing again after getting the soldering iron hot it stopped working. And now won't go. So I have a pulled apart key and a whole one and neither will work and its not the battery and its not the receiver. Any ideas?
Cheers!!
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| 14th Nov 2011 10:48 am |
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Tallmat
Member Since: 13 Aug 2008
Location: London
Posts: 56
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Before I found this thread, I also change the battery in one of my fobs (got the proper replacement unit via mail order). It also made it work again, but I guess by coincidence or maybe a short-term power boost to the transmitter.
When you reconnected the green wires, did you cut away the existing joint completely, and strip back the insulation so that you had a clean join? I soldered mine, and it has worked faultlessly since.
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| 14th Nov 2011 4:47 pm |
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Ezz
Member Since: 21 Feb 2011
Location: Swadlincote
Posts: 110
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My remote locking plays up too, I'll have a look at the loom at the weekend!
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| 14th Nov 2011 9:38 pm |
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miklos
Member Since: 23 Oct 2009
Location: NZ
Posts: 8
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Cheers Tallmat, I had a play again this morning and now as long as I hold the old soldered joins tight, the old battery works again in the remote I have pulled to pieces without having to piggy back off another battery. Very strange.
Yep I cut that whole connector off, stripped the three wires back and crimped/taped them all together.
Now I am extremely confused as to whether its batteries, the receiver, the induction charging circuit or all of them!!!
Cheers!
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| 14th Nov 2011 10:29 pm |
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Bushwanderer
Member Since: 27 Nov 2007
Location: Northern Rivers, NSW, Australia
Posts: 2050
 
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miklos wrote: SNIP
now as long as I hold the old soldered joins tight, the old battery works again in the remote SNIP
And you don't suspect a dry joint?  The Bearded Dragon
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| 15th Nov 2011 12:11 am |
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miklos
Member Since: 23 Oct 2009
Location: NZ
Posts: 8
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thanks bushwanderer, good thinking. This is a possibility, but would it explain both keys not working, and the intermittent thing as well? I.E. both keys worked every time for a couple of weeks.
Anyway I will re-solder and put this key back together again and start praying!
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| 15th Nov 2011 12:27 am |
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hgrimmett
Member Since: 11 Oct 2009
Location: Bledlow
Posts: 901
 
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The Disco went in to have a cambelt change today, that job seems to have been done fine but the garage said that the remote fob hadn't worked at all and that the car was open when they came to it in the car park. It starts fine and when I got it home tonight the spare fob wouldn't work either, we use each fob fairly interchangeably so it shouldn't be an internal battery problem; and it would be strange that they have both 'failed 'suddenly.
I have no reason to doubt the garage, it's probably just a coincidence. After all what would they have been doing going naywhere near the receiver or remote locking circuits?
I'll dig around for the crimp joints tomorrow morning... -------------------------------------------------------------------
D4 '15 (64) Se Tech Indus Silver
Tesla Model Y LR (22)
Audi TT Roadster 225 (52)
Tesla Model 3 LR (70) (gone)
Porsche Boxster '96 2.5 5spd project (P)
Mini R52 S (54)
BMW 330e eDrive MSport '16 (gone)
D3 '07 (56) XS TDV6 Buckingham Blue (gone)
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| 16th Nov 2011 6:46 pm |
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miklos
Member Since: 23 Oct 2009
Location: NZ
Posts: 8
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theres something very strange about these fobs. I got to my car this morning and like always pushed the button to see if keys were working. Miraculously three days after re-doing the green/white wire joint and pulling a key apart the other one has started working.
Probably not for long though...
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| 16th Nov 2011 9:02 pm |
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