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ebygum32
Member Since: 03 Oct 2010
Location: yorkshire - London
Posts: 1590
 
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Kid and sweet shop spring to mind 
Just remember to have some external power going through the Disco when you use it  Goodyear Duratracs
Pirelli ATR gone
GG AT Gone
RLD Spare wheel protector
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Club ctek mxs10
Yorkshire 4x4 Response
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 30th Jul 2014 4:19 pm |
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ebygum32
Member Since: 03 Oct 2010
Location: yorkshire - London
Posts: 1590
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Oh yes just ask any of the guys with them or fault mates, if not the battery will take a big hit and mess things up,
If you have a ctek and tow bar electrics you could always power it up that way Goodyear Duratracs
Pirelli ATR gone
GG AT Gone
RLD Spare wheel protector
Leeds - London weekly return
Club ctek mxs10
Yorkshire 4x4 Response
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| 30th Jul 2014 5:31 pm |
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Woolmeister
Member Since: 26 Mar 2007
Location: Chandler's Ford
Posts: 3464
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You need a CTEK or similar that offers a supply mode. Minimum 25A if you're going to be reflashing ECUs.
Something like this is ideal:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/CTEK-MXS-8-Stage-B...ds=ctek+25
You seriously didn't think the spending was going to end with a Nanocom did you? 
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| 30th Jul 2014 6:22 pm |
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Barn1e
D3 Decade
Member Since: 28 Aug 2006
Location: Mid-sussex
Posts: 2021
  
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Well, I knew that CTEK charger would come in useful - mine has the Supply mode Just need to work out how to get it onto that setting ! 2005, TDV6 S, Auto, 190k miles, owned from new, V8 Brake Upgrade, Nancom Evo, RLD protector, BAS EGR blanking & Remap, separate ATF cooler, changing all the fluids ahead of time.
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| 30th Jul 2014 7:37 pm |
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geoff.
Member Since: 24 Jan 2010
Location: West kent
Posts: 8531
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press a button 
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| 30th Jul 2014 7:39 pm |
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BBS SPY
Site Sponsor
Member Since: 15 Jun 2007
Location: Sunny Cyprus
Posts: 3054
 
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The vehicles Battery is good enough for regular diagnostics like reading / Clearing Fault codes etc and even perhaps a single CCF edit, but the moment you come to do any serious stuff like flashing major ECU's etc that requires the vehicle to maintain power for more than about 10 Minutes at max you really need to add some form of additional power.
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| 30th Jul 2014 8:08 pm |
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geoff.
Member Since: 24 Jan 2010
Location: West kent
Posts: 8531
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and if you don't add power your in trouble , take it from someone who's been there and got the tee shirt
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| 30th Jul 2014 8:09 pm |
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caverD3
Member Since: 02 Jul 2006
Location: Oberon, NSW
Posts: 6922
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Would a 20amp 12v Lab power supply work? “There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely gamesâ€
Ernest Hemmingway
D4 3.0 Active Diff, Adaptive Lights, High Beam Assist, Surround Cameras, Privacy Glass.
D3 2.7:Adaptive Headlights,Electronic Rear Diff,ARB Bar,Blaupunkt Speakers,JVC Powered Subwoofer,Removable Snorkel,Mitch Hitch,Pioneer After Market Head Unit,Steering Wheel Control Adaptor,Remote Adjustable Supension Rod System, Taxside Dual Battery System.
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| 31st Jul 2014 12:39 am |
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BBS SPY
Site Sponsor
Member Since: 15 Jun 2007
Location: Sunny Cyprus
Posts: 3054
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Although it would help and be better than nothing, not really CaverD3.
20 Amps is not quite enough and it would not start to deliver that until the Battery voltage dropped below 12V which is not ideal as a fully charged Battery should be 13.8 minimum.
Parralax33
You seem a bit confused.
So to clarify,
The Nanocom Evolution itself requires no additional power source, it is quite happy being powered via it's single connection to the vehicles OBDII connector.
Its just that in using it you need to turn on the ignition but not have the engine running and in this state the ECU's in the vehicle draw quite a lot of power and the Vehicles Battery can start to loose power and become depleted surprisingly quickly.
If you are doing stuff that just takes a few minutes, starting with a fully charged battery will probably be enough, but when doing major re flashing especially, which in some cases can take almost an hour, you really need to add an additional power supply to the vehicle to prevent it's battery from being drained.
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| 31st Jul 2014 3:52 pm |
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