Member Since: 06 Nov 2007
Location: Deepest Darkest Berkshire
Posts: 696
Nice write up Robbie - I have a couple of symptoms that I suspect are related but so far not been able to pin down to confirm this.
a/ intermittent vibration at idle. deep bass vibration that can heard and felt through the pedals. It comes on when coasting to a halt and the revs drop from 1k to 750. happens 75% of the time when pulling to a halt.
b/ Fuel breather appears blocked. Getting a pronounced suction sound when removing the filler cap.
It seems that once I remove the pressure in the tank then the vibration does not occur for while but then returns.
Reading your post about using the oscilloscope got me wondering if the pressure build-up in the tank is casing the pump/fuel lines to vibrate...
It might just be me joining two unrelated dots but I thought i'd ask.Also Gone : MY14 D4 SDV6 HSE : Barolo Black + Almond
Sadly Gone : MY08 D3 TDV6 HSE : Stornoway + Alpaca + Privacy + BAS Remap
14th Oct 2015 11:26 am
donnylad
Member Since: 31 Mar 2016
Location: Doncaster
Posts: 32
great guide, I will have to try this but after reading it I am not that confident, but should be ok.
I dont suppose anybody is in the Doncaster / Rotherham area who has done this before and fancies giving me a hand for some beer tokens?
25th Apr 2016 10:43 am
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Donny to Gainsborough is not a major expedition.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 11 Oct 2009
Location: Bledlow
Posts: 901
Great thread Robbie, thanks so much for posting this. I've been having a few problems with Christmas tree lights and bongs after about 30mins of running which can be cleared by cycling the ignition, the car throws the P2290 and P0087 codes. I have already swapped out a new brake switch, lights and fuel filter.
I noticed that it could run without fault at a steady 40mph on the motorway to get me and the family back home yesterday but as soon as it hit a hill it had a hissy fit.
The pressure at the schrader valve seems OK at 6psi but the voltage over the fuse is only 8.4mV equating to about 3.5A at idle so I'm going to go ahead and swap out the pump module with one from AF.
Although no one's done a full write up I'm going to brief myself with Beanie brief post on the number of bolts to find and Jakeboy's photos - wish me luck!!-------------------------------------------------------------------
D4 '15 (64) Se Tech Indus Silver
Tesla Model Y LR (22)
Audi TT Roadster 225 (52)
Tesla Model 3 LR (70) (gone)
Porsche Boxster '96 2.5 5spd project (P)
Mini R52 S (54)
BMW 330e eDrive MSport '16 (gone)
D3 '07 (56) XS TDV6 Buckingham Blue (gone)
22nd May 2016 2:26 pm
jamieroxy
Member Since: 28 Mar 2016
Location: Redditch
Posts: 72
Well dropped my tank yesterday to give the intank pickup screen a clean as I know they can block up after 100k as mine was showing 3psi at idle and -1psi at 3000rpm. Was crudded up gave it a good clean put back together checked pressure and now show 2psi at idle and fluctuating and -2psi at 3000rpm. So think a new intank fuel pump is needed. But the truck starts and drove fine but always thought maybe a bit underpowered at top of rev range, no fault code or issues?
31st Jul 2016 11:40 am
maplecottage
Member Since: 01 Feb 2011
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3171
A daft question perhaps - I have been trying to track down a poor starting issue and have been 'testing' the LP fuel pump.
Pump runs on ignition switch on, fuel flow seems good - if engine is not started, pump shuts down after about 20 - 30 secs. Re-energise the ignition and all is normal again.
Is this normal behaviour or should the pump continue to run as long as ignition is 'on'.
TIA
Steve
PS. 5 out of 6 GP's appear fine
20th Aug 2016 10:32 am
hgrimmett
Member Since: 11 Oct 2009
Location: Bledlow
Posts: 901
All normal!! That's the TFC way to recharge the fuel lines after a fuel filter change!-------------------------------------------------------------------
D4 '15 (64) Se Tech Indus Silver
Tesla Model Y LR (22)
Audi TT Roadster 225 (52)
Tesla Model 3 LR (70) (gone)
Porsche Boxster '96 2.5 5spd project (P)
Mini R52 S (54)
BMW 330e eDrive MSport '16 (gone)
D3 '07 (56) XS TDV6 Buckingham Blue (gone)
20th Aug 2016 8:10 pm
aman
Member Since: 09 Feb 2014
Location: London
Posts: 285
Fuel filter connections in case anyone needs it:
25th Aug 2016 5:20 pm
de7158
Member Since: 20 Jul 2013
Location: Queensland
Posts: 15
Big thanks to Robbie.
After reading his guide I decided to throw in a low pressure gauge, clamp on ammeter, relay bridging wire and a drain hose for the engine Schrader valve for a "just in case" scenario. Our trip was about 15,000km across central Australia and the Kimberley.
Now how smart did I feel when we had a fuel issue (thanks Gap 11D BT.....don't leave home without one) and thanks to Robbie's guide, I diagnosed a LPFP fault. Current draw good but fluctuating high/low pressure. Changed the fuel filter but still had low pressure so then moved on the next possible cause.....the LPFP.
Took 5.5 hours from start to go, as compared to at least a satellite phone call and a 2 day wait for Road Side Assist and then most likely a flat bed to the nearest rural town with the time delay and associated costs.
My pressure dropped to the pont where I couldn't continue to drain the tank via the Schrader valve and had to drop it down with 40 odd litres still in it. Filter gauze was completely blocked by a black gunk. Drained and cleaned tank as best I could and did a complete tank clean when I got back home.
I had replaced the LPFP before, and so was familiar with the removal & install sequence.
Cheers
Peter
25th Aug 2016 10:38 pm
aman
Member Since: 09 Feb 2014
Location: London
Posts: 285
Hi Robbie
I change my fuel filter every year now and I notice there is always a significant improvement in performance and running of the engine.
Can there really be this much dirt in the fuel that needs filtering out?
Looking at the fuel filter itself I notice one of the 4 connections only has a very fine hole, and it makes me wonder, could it be this very fine hole that is getting blocked and affecting performance (rather than the filter itself getting blocked)
Just out of interest, what are each of the connections for, and why is it important that one of the connections only has a fine hole?
What would happen if the fine hole got blocked?
Would It be better to make this fine hole bigger?
Thanks
27th Aug 2016 1:48 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
de7158 wrote:
Big thanks to Robbie.
TVM.
aman wrote:
Just out of interest, what are each of the connections for, and why is it important that one of the connections only has a fine hole?
What would happen if the fine hole got blocked?
Would It be better to make this fine hole bigger?
The differing bore/port size is to balance system pressure and flow, so don't tinker.
The 4 ports are for normal fuel in/out, plus 2 more for hot fuel in/out to warm the filter. In the old days diesel could suffer in the cold, especially at the filter where the pressure drop induces a further thermodynamic (i.e. Joule-Thompson) temperature drop. The D3/D4 will happily run at stupidly low temperatures.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
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TVM.
