Gareth
Site Moderator
Member Since: 07 Dec 2004
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 26774
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| Just replaced all brake disks and pads... |
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I decided to do the job myself, as the quotes I have seen for full disk and pad change are very pricey, and as I have the tools and had a bit of free time it was a no brainer.
Bought OEM TRW discs and pads from Advanced Factors. It was nice to see that the disk centres were already sprayed black. I masked them up and gave them a couple of extra coats of Hammerite smooth black.
I stripped the front brakes first. It really is very easy, and everything was stripped down in about 20 minutes. Whilst it was in bits, I cleaned and painted the caliper carriers and calipers themselves with Hammerite black.
Everything went back together very straight forward.
I then moved to the rear brakes. Again it was very quick and easy to strip the calipers, carriers, and disks. The EPB was very dusty and needed a good clean, so stripped the shoes off and cleaned them up. Coppaslip was applied to all pivots, threads and contact points. Again, I painted the calipers and carriers black.
With the brakes reassembled, I then had to do the EPB bedding in. This was the most difficult part of the whole job! First, I could not get the system into service mode. The instructions call for 3 presses on the brake pedal, holding the pedal down on the 3rd, 4 ups and 3 downs on the epb switch. All I can say is don't rush the sequence and make positive movements of the switch. You have 10 seconds to do the sequence and I suggest you use all 10.
The next problem was finding enough traffic free road to perform the procedure. I did note that the EPB efficiency got better with each application, and by the 9th cycle was briefly locking the wheels before settling down to a smooth but firm stop.
Other tips are to hold the epb shoes tight in place with a large zip tie around the circumference of both shoes whilst reconnecting the springs - stops them from slipping around.
I found the best tool to pull the strong spring across on the epb was a large pair of side cutters, they gripped the spring hard enough, and had a large soft handle to allow a lot of pressure to be applied.
Bodsy's brake bible is excellent, and was good reference.
It is really worth the extra time to paint all the visible bits, it looks so much better than rusty discs and calipers.
Don't rely on the brake pad warning system. Mine was not showing any pad warnings, and on both sides the front inner pads were on metal, and had been for some time. The visible outer pads had 2mm.
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 2nd Apr 2016 9:52 pm |
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Bodsy
Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
 
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Quote:
I found the best tool to pull the strong spring across on the epb was a large pair of side cutters, they gripped the spring hard enough, and had a large soft handle to allow a lot of pressure to be applied.
The strong Spring, I always put in both shoes and once one shoe is in place, pivot the other shoe into place as getting that strong Spring into the shoe on the hub is really really difficult. Surprised you managed it TBH.  Bodsys Brake Bible
D4/D3 Remote FBH heat kits
BAS Remaps/ EGR Blank
Transmission Flush
Software updates/enabling
Clock/ SNOTM /3Flash / 4x4Info /BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes / Gearbox Reset
See It Here
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| 2nd Apr 2016 10:41 pm |
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Bodsy
Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
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I mean I'm surprised anyone manages it, not casting aspersions on your brake Spring grabbing prowess.  Bodsys Brake Bible
D4/D3 Remote FBH heat kits
BAS Remaps/ EGR Blank
Transmission Flush
Software updates/enabling
Clock/ SNOTM /3Flash / 4x4Info /BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes / Gearbox Reset
See It Here
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| 2nd Apr 2016 10:42 pm |
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Gareth
Site Moderator
Member Since: 07 Dec 2004
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 26774
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Certainly needed extra Weetabix!
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| 2nd Apr 2016 10:50 pm |
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