Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13670
Pete K wrote:
pull the fuse by the glovebox out
and check the current has dropped under the bonnet
P.S your red battery wire is upside down. I guess you did this to get the current clamp round it
Will do, fuse F46 was the one and will recheck at the battery pos lead
Indeed I did, turn that red lead upside down, made life easier
1st Sep 2018 6:05 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10372
gstuart wrote:
What connections on the yellow meter were you using?
I suspect this reading is too low, (which is good as we were looking for more)
If you were using A and com with the fuse still fitted, some of the current will have been going thru the fuse and some thru your meter. Therefore the meter would read low.
1st Sep 2018 6:06 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10372
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13670
Pete K wrote:
gstuart wrote:
What connections on the yellow meter were you using?
I suspect this reading is too low, (which is good as we were looking for more)
If you were using A and com with the fuse still fitted, some of the current will have been going thru the fuse and some thru your meter. Therefore the meter would read low.
I used com and Ma , plus that multimeter automatically zeros itself , far better quality than the clamp meter I bought
Plus they weren’t far out when I compared both of them together
Did u also like the test leads I done, cable tied them together, was a lot easier being able to test the glove box fuses
1st Sep 2018 6:38 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13670
Are u also going to retrofit electric seats then pete
1st Sep 2018 7:26 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10372
I had electric seats from factory.
Just trying to understand why you may have this issue.
1st Sep 2018 7:39 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13670
Ah i see, thks and makes sense
Know when I was first testing the cabin fuses they were all zero,then I released I had my meter on volts instead of Ma
Could a bad seat earth cause this kind of amperage draw please , or simply a bad component inside the memory module , bad motor windings ??? , but indeed no point guessing
Will be interesting tommorow to see what the reading will be at the pos lead after I pull F46
Must admit if it proves 100% that’s the issue would be interesting to try and decipher why , or what tests I’m able to do , basically for curiosity as I imagine it will bug u as well
Fingers crossed can get it under the recommended 22 MAmp after going into sleep mode
Hope u don’t mind me asking Pete are u into electronics a lot plse
1st Sep 2018 7:59 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10372
My thoughts are:
1. Does the passenger electric seat work with the key out? This isn't good if it does and could be the drain.
2. drivers seat not wired correctly (hardly surprising)
3. Memory module faulty.
I don't understand how you have bypassed the memory module? Is it still connected or did you fit a passenger loom to drivers seat ?
Once you established the seat is the problem, put your clamp round the red/white wire and see if that has the 300mA thru it
1st Sep 2018 9:12 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13670
Hi
1) yes it does but only for a limited time , say a minute after the key is removed
2 ) indeed , bypassing the memory control module
3 ) definitely a strong contender
Just followed the other threads where someone had worked out how to bypass the memory module, it will only allow 2-3 seconds bursts of power to the seat in order u can move it , then u have to release the seat switch and then press it again
I bought the seats from an HSE and it had the looms already in the electric seats
drivers having the memory module where as the passenger one just has a relay as part of the seats loom, pass seat was plug and play and req no mods
The memory module is used like a wiring centre
Will indeed report back to ur goodself of my findings
Think it will be easier to just undo the seat base cushion which will then give me considerably better access to the seat wiring in its entirety
Also wondering would it be worth plse disconnecting the drivers seat air bag wire and tuck it out of the way , of course will disconnect the battery and wait 20 x mins or so before removing the airbag wire
So when I put the vehicle into sleep mode and using a multimeter there’s no risk of it causing any issues
Know it’s on a different circuit , just concerns me using a multimeter in close proximity and the vehicle won’t be started , so airbag system won’t be charged
Thks
1st Sep 2018 9:52 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13670
Ref this picture , can see alll the wires that plug into the memory module
If it’s found to be the issue , will get another drivers loom and 8 x way seat switch in order for the entire memory module and associate wiring can be removed entirely
1st Sep 2018 10:00 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10372
I would just leave the airbag stuff alone.
If the leak is thru the red white seat wire, maybe it could be connected to the ignition circuit
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