Hi there...
During a recent trip to France the rear r.h. caliper decided not to release properly and as a result the brake pads on that wheel were worn down to the metal and the disc was badly scored. Ordered a new pair of rear discs and pads all round which I got a local French garage to fit.
A couple of weeks later-we had returned to the U.K., there was a loud screeching noise when the EPB was applied and also when released. On one occasion, the EPB wouldn't release. Managed to get the EPB to release using the emergency cable and since then have not used the EPB and as always, left the car in "Park" mode.
I suspect that the Garage did not adjust the rear brake shoes correctly, if at all.
Decided to remove the discs, inspect the shoes and inspect the EPB actuator for damage as I suspect the internal nylon gear(s) are damaged. The discs were removed and broken sections of brake lining less than 1mm thick fell out of both sides and one shoe was completely devoid of lining material-luckily the drum surfaces were not scored.
Next step was to remove the cables and actuator which is mounted above and towards the rear of the rear diff. Biggest problem was removing the brake cable "P" clips as the bolt heads securing them to the chassis were rusty and badly corroded, these bolts were located high up on the chassis and there was very restricted access-anyway with much perseverance, managed to get them out and release the cables.
The manual states that the EPB Actuator bracket should be removed and this is retained by 4 bolts accesible after removing the spare wheel, from above the plate which is fitted between two rear chassis crossmembers- these bolts are also corroded and immovable with tools due to the very restricted access between the plate and the body. I managed to remove the two rusted nuts which hold the Actuator to the bracket with a Dremel.
After disconnecting the propshaft at the rear diff. to give more room and put the suspension in Extended height mode I was able to release the Actuator from it's bracket (The Brake cables are still attached to it) but the unit is fouling on the diff. flange slightly, enough to prevent it's removal.
Would welcome any constructive advice from anyone who has encountered this job before. I am aware that Disco Mikey has put a good post on here for unjamming the EPB in- situ and have looked on You Tube where it appears that the range Rover Sport has easier access and the clip relating to the Disco 3
omits to show the actual removal from it's location to where he pulls it out from the car complete with the cable attached and onto the bench for strip down and repair.
Apologies if this post is long winded but I wanted to give as much info as possible.Relocated to Mid France from N. Wales March 2021
Rovacomlite and IDD/ SSD diagnostics user
Previous Landies
3.9 SE Classic
3.5 V8 Disco
4.6 P38 HSE
L322 Vogue HSE
TD4 ES Freelander 1
18th Jan 2019 4:24 pm
sputnixb51
Member Since: 23 Apr 2013
Location: Morayshire
Posts: 833
The write up mentions that it will come out through one side (left maybe?) but I could not see how this was possible at either side so I took the whole bracket off it was the only way to get the room for me anyway. I had to use my induction heater to get any of the bolts out at all. I hope you have noted the routing of the cables really well I thought I had but what a pig it is to get back in correctly.
Yes,I did make certain the routing of the cables. I have seen more of the underside of the Disco than the rest of late
Unfortunately I don't possess an induction heater and I am sure you appreciate, having been there, just how restrictive the space is between the plate and the mounting bracket.
I think I may have a try at removing the top cover of the actuator to see if it will come out between the body & diff or whether it can be worked on in situ. My plan was to get it on the bench rather than on my back.
Weather here today has been wet,cold & windy and as the car is on axle stands outside, it's been an inactive day !!
***NOTE***
Forgot to mention in my first post that my diagnostics are giving "EPB Latching Fault" and I am unable to reset or Unlatch with the diagnostics.Relocated to Mid France from N. Wales March 2021
Rovacomlite and IDD/ SSD diagnostics user
Previous Landies
3.9 SE Classic
3.5 V8 Disco
4.6 P38 HSE
L322 Vogue HSE
TD4 ES Freelander 1
18th Jan 2019 6:14 pm
sputnixb51
Member Since: 23 Apr 2013
Location: Morayshire
Posts: 833
Disco Mikey’s write up for un jamming and re latching is done in situ. But I had to remove mine because a cable was so badly corroded and chafed it had caused the jam in the first place. If you get the cover off ok then maybe you will be able to sort it out in situ at least you will have a better angle to see in to do it now it’s off the mounting bracket. Any chance of a hire shop having an induction heater in your area these days. When I was at Valley in the 70’s and early 80’s there would have been no chance.
Thanks for your response
UPDATE
After getting underneath this afternoon, decided to have another jiggle of the unit and it came out easily complete with both brake and emergency cables attached. Undoing the large plastic cable nuts on the unit gave more flexibility to move the unit.
Managed to strip it down and the white sensor with the ribbon cable was detached from the main actuator shaft.
Disconnected the r.h. brake cable from the sensor with the latch...can anyone tell me what the sensor detects as it seems to have no moving parts.
Next disconnected the l.h. cable which has a l.h. thread. I found that the cable was screwed fully in to the actuator shaft. Looking at the manual it states that the cable must be screwed into the actuator shaft 5 full turns only, that was causing the jam.
Decided to remove the motor/gearbox and found one of the nylon gears was stripped, luckily I had purchased a spare set.
So it's rebuild time but I have to sort out some suitable stainless self tapping screws for the cover as the original Torx had rusted heads. Also have to get a couple of M6 Bobbin type rubber mounts as I cut through th originals in order to release the unit from it's mounting bracket-no big problem with those-there are plenty on Ebay.Relocated to Mid France from N. Wales March 2021
Rovacomlite and IDD/ SSD diagnostics user
Previous Landies
3.9 SE Classic
3.5 V8 Disco
4.6 P38 HSE
L322 Vogue HSE
TD4 ES Freelander 1
Removal of the unit is a pain, especially if the mounting bracket bolts are rusted to hell on the bolt heads. I managed to cut the top mounting nuts off with a Dremel. bought replacement M6X20mm dia Bobbin type rubber mounts off Ebay for a fiver (Qty.4)-only needed two.
Trying to remove the unit with the brake cables still attached is virtually impossible as it's like trying to wrestle with two Anacondas as they prevent free handling. I disconnected the rear propshaft at the rear diff to give much improved access. Both cable plastic nuts were disconnected after manouvering both cables through their respective wheel arches. The r.h. cable is held by a plastic clip with two tags that have to be prised outwards with a couple of small flat bladed screwdrivers, the clip is then slid along the cable and the metal nipple on the end of the cable unhooked from the actuator latch block. The l.h. cable is then pulled out from the actuator until it stops. The cable has a left hand threaded screw so needs to be rotated clockwise to undo-it should only be attached to the actuator by approx 5 full turns.
With the cables (Apart from the emergency release cable) disconnected and the electrical connector released the unit came out with a bit of jiggling from the front through the gap created by the disconnection of the propshaft.
Upon removal of the cover it could be seen that the l.h. cable square "Nut" which is actually a guide and also stops the cable from turning, had jammed against the end of the actuator shaft. The cable screw had travelled it's full length and the latch to which the r.h. cable is connected had become detached from the hooked overload.
Disconnected the motor and removed the actuator shaft to allow the gearbox cover to be removed. It was found that two of the nylon gears inside the box had stripped teeth...I had purchased a set of replacement gears beforehand for about £37.00.
Replaced and greased the gears, refitted the actuator which was also greased,re-engaged the latch and refitted the parts.Removed the old RTV sealant from the cover and resealed.
Gave the two lower rubber mounting bungs a good coating of Silicone grease, fitted the new rubber Bobbin top mounts and refitted the box onto the mounting bracket.
Reconnected the r.h. cable to the unit Insert the Bung ensuring that the lugs line up with the notches on the actuator thread and tighten up the large plastic nut . Next the l.h. cable was screwed into the end of the actuator shaft, remember that it's a l.h. thread so turn anti clockwise-the manual states that it should be inserted 5 full turns only. Ensure that the square "Nut" is aligned with the opening and push the cable in-it should move freely in & out. Insert the Bung ensuring that the lugs line up with the notches on the actuator thread and tighten up the large plastic nut. No need to go overboard tightening the large plastic nuts-hand tight is fine as long as the cable is held firmly onto the actuator.
Wrestle both brake cables to their original route and secure.
TIP..
Give the rubber grommets that attach to a forked type bracket on the chassis a dose of Silicone or Rubber grease and they will slide in easier than if they are dry and the bracket is bound to be rusty which doesn't help !!
Would be much easier if the car is raised on a hoist but if needs must !!
All in all not the best job I have undertaken but doable and it's saved me a fortune in garage bills and the cost of a new unit..Relocated to Mid France from N. Wales March 2021
Rovacomlite and IDD/ SSD diagnostics user
Previous Landies
3.9 SE Classic
3.5 V8 Disco
4.6 P38 HSE
L322 Vogue HSE
TD4 ES Freelander 1
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