Member Since: 03 Sep 2016
Location: West Mids Walsall
Posts: 871
new D3 (to me anyway) WHAT TO SERVICE CHANGE ?
Hi guys , i've had to buy another as my previous D3 was wrote off before Christmas
I've now managed to get myself a nice looking hse 05 plate with 150,000 miles on the clock auto. Question is i've got to have a good look through all the paperwork and check but as i want to make sure all is covered by changing stuff as i don't fully know whats been done
i'm going to do the timing belts, tentioner and idler also the check the water pump i believe to see if its the newer stronger casting
the auto box seems nice and smooth but don't know if the fluid has ever been done so do you guys think
IF IT'S NOT BROKE DON'T FIX IT or change to maintain it ? Just i've heard by changing the fluid or was it flushing is that it can cause issues. Thanks in advance for any responsesMetal auto sump & fluid change (3 hrs)
LR door puddle projectors (10 mins)
Tinted Bonnet wind deflector (10 mins)
All Intercooler pipes and Tbolts (2hrs)
3 injectors replaced so far (30mins)
Sunroof drain pipes both sides 2.5 hrs)
Rear discs, shoes,pads,callipers,flexi hoses, rigid brake line, n/s upper hub carrier bush and rear n/s upper arm (13hrs over 2 days)
19th Jan 2019 10:02 pm
kajtzu
Member Since: 11 Aug 2017
Location: Helsinki
Posts: 6577
Sounds like the ATF hasn’t been changed. I think there are at least three camps of thought:
There are also many camps of thought on how the change of ATF should be done:
A. Drop pan, new filter and pan, add until full again
B. Mega flush
C. Filo flush
D. A but several changes of oil to dilute
Myself I took option 3-B. Plenty of threads with differing opinions. Read some/all and form your own.
Also there are other places you might want to change fluids:
- coolant, change date; if you can’t tell the date it can be tested; change interval is 10 years
- brake fluid, change date; if uncertain, either change it since it’s supposed to be done every three years or test the boiling point
- rear diff
- front diff
- transfer box
- when was oil changed; oil/fuel/engine air/cabin air filters
Next the other stuff:
- when was AC last refilled with refrigerant
- brake hoses; change interval is 6 years
- auxiliary drive belts
You could get a maintenance sheet for the D3, try to determine what has been done and then attempt to determine what hasn’t been done and go from there.
Note I listed only the time interval, the maintenance sheet will also have the recommended mileage interval between changes. It’s ehichever comes first which matters.
Good luck.
19th Jan 2019 10:51 pm
XDAndy
Member Since: 16 Jan 2018
Location: Gibraltar
Posts: 597
If you’re in the West Midlands, then Bodsy is not too far from you.
He has an auto box flushing machine and does a mobile service.
Would be worth dropping him a PM to ask.
My understanding is that although LR said ‘sealed for life’, they actually meant “flush every so often”, and ZF apparently recommend flushing even more often! 150k is definitely ‘up there’ as regards changing the ATF.
My Guess is that if your auto box is changing smoothly and you want to keep it that way, would be worth changing the ATF.
Must check out my brake hoses though !
20th Jan 2019 12:10 am
Lrstaylor
Member Since: 04 Oct 2018
Location: Kent
Posts: 590
Did a full engine service on mine including new oil pump found the front belt had been changed but the rear was original, nothing else needed doing as recent new brake pads and service before my purchase but i still checked everything and i mean everything.
Will be stripping the fbh shortly as its duff
20th Jan 2019 12:16 am
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
My view was, if its got fluid in it change it, plus all the belts, been good for four years so far.
20th Jan 2019 1:34 am
ClassikFan
Member Since: 02 Nov 2016
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1029
IIRC 150,000 miles is LR's definition of lifetime for auto transmission fluid. Defifnitely time for a change. If the gearbox is working fine don't push your luck and risk a big bill for new torque converter and gearbox, get a megaflush done asap.Just 'cause you got the power... that don't mean you got the right.
20th Jan 2019 9:19 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10372
wrote off in accident or failure?
Make sure you update your profile with new details. e.g age.
With the engine running on a cold engine, you could remove the gearbox level plug (drivers side) and get a small sample of oil out.
Refit plug BEFORE turning engine off.
If the fluid doesn't look black, I would leave it.
At 150K with a smooth gearbox, it must of had work before!
20th Jan 2019 12:29 pm
Parky63
Member Since: 10 Apr 2017
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 401
Pete,
Would it not be easier to disconnect the cooler inlet pipe at the top of the radiator and stick some absorbent paper down the pipe? This worked for me and I was amazed that the fluid was light brown.
There are also many camps of thought on how the change of ATF should be done:
A. Drop pan, new filter and pan, add until full again
B. Mega flush
C. Filo flush
D. A but several changes of oil to dilute
Myself I took option 3-B. Plenty of threads with differing opinions. Read some/all and form your own.
Also there are other places you might want to change fluids:
- coolant, change date; if you can’t tell the date it can be tested; change interval is 10 years
- brake fluid, change date; if uncertain, either change it since it’s supposed to be done every three years or test the boiling point
- rear diff
- front diff
- transfer box
- when was oil changed; oil/fuel/engine air/cabin air filters
Next the other stuff:
- when was AC last refilled with refrigerant
- brake hoses; change interval is 6 years
- auxiliary drive belts
You could get a maintenance sheet for the D3, try to determine what has been done and then attempt to determine what hasn’t been done and go from there.
Note I listed only the time interval, the maintenance sheet will also have the recommended mileage interval between changes. It’s ehichever comes first which matters.
Good luck.
Thanks for the list of items
The oil has been changed due to a new turbo fitted and filter so the coolant will be changed by me and I will be doing all other fluids eg brakes diffs and anything else
The belts I need to read up on as I've got a feeling they were done at 100,000 miles
Will check the service bookMetal auto sump & fluid change (3 hrs)
LR door puddle projectors (10 mins)
Tinted Bonnet wind deflector (10 mins)
All Intercooler pipes and Tbolts (2hrs)
3 injectors replaced so far (30mins)
Sunroof drain pipes both sides 2.5 hrs)
Rear discs, shoes,pads,callipers,flexi hoses, rigid brake line, n/s upper hub carrier bush and rear n/s upper arm (13hrs over 2 days)
20th Jan 2019 3:14 pm
Dazz360
Member Since: 03 Sep 2016
Location: West Mids Walsall
Posts: 871
XDAndy wrote:
If you’re in the West Midlands, then Bodsy is not too far from you.
He has an auto box flushing machine and does a mobile service.
Would be worth dropping him a PM to ask.
My understanding is that although LR said ‘sealed for life’, they actually meant “flush every so often”, and ZF apparently recommend flushing even more often! 150k is definitely ‘up there’ as regards changing the ATF.
My Guess is that if your auto box is changing smoothly and you want to keep it that way, would be worth changing the ATF.
Must check out my brake hoses though !
I will be asking bodsy for a qote and his view as like you say it's at 150,000Metal auto sump & fluid change (3 hrs)
LR door puddle projectors (10 mins)
Tinted Bonnet wind deflector (10 mins)
All Intercooler pipes and Tbolts (2hrs)
3 injectors replaced so far (30mins)
Sunroof drain pipes both sides 2.5 hrs)
Rear discs, shoes,pads,callipers,flexi hoses, rigid brake line, n/s upper hub carrier bush and rear n/s upper arm (13hrs over 2 days)
20th Jan 2019 3:16 pm
Dazz360
Member Since: 03 Sep 2016
Location: West Mids Walsall
Posts: 871
Lrstaylor wrote:
Did a full engine service on mine including new oil pump found the front belt had been changed but the rear was original, nothing else needed doing as recent new brake pads and service before my purchase but i still checked everything and i mean everything.
Will be stripping the fbh shortly as its duff
I do want to know if the oil pump has been done for piece of mind , I just need to check papers as I'm waiting for the car at the moment due to him having to replace the turbo because the actuator had failedMetal auto sump & fluid change (3 hrs)
LR door puddle projectors (10 mins)
Tinted Bonnet wind deflector (10 mins)
All Intercooler pipes and Tbolts (2hrs)
3 injectors replaced so far (30mins)
Sunroof drain pipes both sides 2.5 hrs)
Rear discs, shoes,pads,callipers,flexi hoses, rigid brake line, n/s upper hub carrier bush and rear n/s upper arm (13hrs over 2 days)
20th Jan 2019 3:20 pm
Dazz360
Member Since: 03 Sep 2016
Location: West Mids Walsall
Posts: 871
lynalldiscovery wrote:
My view was, if its got fluid in it change it, plus all the belts, been good for four years so far.
Will be doing exactly that when I get my hands on the carMetal auto sump & fluid change (3 hrs)
LR door puddle projectors (10 mins)
Tinted Bonnet wind deflector (10 mins)
All Intercooler pipes and Tbolts (2hrs)
3 injectors replaced so far (30mins)
Sunroof drain pipes both sides 2.5 hrs)
Rear discs, shoes,pads,callipers,flexi hoses, rigid brake line, n/s upper hub carrier bush and rear n/s upper arm (13hrs over 2 days)
20th Jan 2019 3:21 pm
Dazz360
Member Since: 03 Sep 2016
Location: West Mids Walsall
Posts: 871
ClassikFan wrote:
IIRC 150,000 miles is LR's definition of lifetime for auto transmission fluid. Defifnitely time for a change. If the gearbox is working fine don't push your luck and risk a big bill for new torque converter and gearbox, get a megaflush done asap.
What's the best fluid for these auto boxes at a good price ?Metal auto sump & fluid change (3 hrs)
LR door puddle projectors (10 mins)
Tinted Bonnet wind deflector (10 mins)
All Intercooler pipes and Tbolts (2hrs)
3 injectors replaced so far (30mins)
Sunroof drain pipes both sides 2.5 hrs)
Rear discs, shoes,pads,callipers,flexi hoses, rigid brake line, n/s upper hub carrier bush and rear n/s upper arm (13hrs over 2 days)
20th Jan 2019 3:23 pm
Dazz360
Member Since: 03 Sep 2016
Location: West Mids Walsall
Posts: 871
Pete K wrote:
wrote off in accident or failure?
Make sure you update your profile with new details. e.g age.
With the engine running on a cold engine, you could remove the gearbox level plug (drivers side) and get a small sample of oil out.
Refit plug BEFORE turning engine off.
If the fluid doesn't look black, I would leave it.
At 150K with a smooth gearbox, it must of had work before!
I will change detail when I get the car Tuesday thanks Pete k
What colour should the fluid be when I check this ?Metal auto sump & fluid change (3 hrs)
LR door puddle projectors (10 mins)
Tinted Bonnet wind deflector (10 mins)
All Intercooler pipes and Tbolts (2hrs)
3 injectors replaced so far (30mins)
Sunroof drain pipes both sides 2.5 hrs)
Rear discs, shoes,pads,callipers,flexi hoses, rigid brake line, n/s upper hub carrier bush and rear n/s upper arm (13hrs over 2 days)
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