Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Stockport
Posts: 7830
IID Tool Novice
Just taken delivery of an IID Tool, finally got it up and running, activated, and updated etc. and have removed the few fault codes that were stored so I can start with a clean sheet.
Thing is, it seems a bit daunting and I don't want to make a testicles of anything but would very much like to try the clock in dash mod which I know the IID Tool is capable of doing.
I'm reasonably well up with all things computer related etc. but just want to use caution. I can't seem to find an idiots guide anywhere so was hoping some kind fellow here could point me in the right direction, any advice about using this amazing little tool gratefully received.
Ian.Mods:
Front Fogs + Halos
FBH Remote Control
The 1st Ever RRS Modded Grill
Garmin Nuvi + D4 Surround + Reversing Camera.
D4 Steering Wheel.
Rear Boot Spoiler.
Twin Brake Lights.
Wing Mirror Indicator Repeaters.
Long Roof Rails
Make your own Narpy grill thread
I'm not scared, I'm outta here.
29th Aug 2013 3:38 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
My (hard won) advice is to always make sure your battery is fully charged and that the car is hooked to either a high-amp current source (eg Ctek 25 Amp) or has jump-leads to another vehicle.
You don't want any hint of a voltage interruption when doing any programming.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 10 Nov 2008
Location: Bomber County
Posts: 4547
Would be handy if someone could "map" the processes for getting to certain menus to do certain jobs!2014 D4 XS
2005 D3 SE - Gone
29th Aug 2013 3:43 pm
leadoverdistance
Member Since: 05 Sep 2012
Location: Middleburg Va
Posts: 19
Make sure you register on the Gap diagnostics website, which i assume you have done. Ensure the tool is up to date. I updated mine using the supplied usb cable a few days ago. There has been a recent update to the update, not sure exaclty what it was. It has come out since last month.
If it helps, I have a basic charger that I set on auto and hooked up to the battery.
The manual is worth downloading (via pdf) as it has steps to take if it goes wrong.
The IIDTool prompts you through the process, in plain language. It is really easy, and I am no digital giant. I would be surprised if you did not succeed
All the best
Paul
29th Aug 2013 7:30 pm
Narpy
Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Stockport
Posts: 7830
Thanks for that.
I think I need to have a play around with it. I honestly can't understand any of it at the moment and the manual ( once you've actually found it on the GAP website ) may as well be written in Russian.
I'll see how I get on this weekend.
Definitely echo what J@mes has said too.Mods:
Front Fogs + Halos
FBH Remote Control
The 1st Ever RRS Modded Grill
Garmin Nuvi + D4 Surround + Reversing Camera.
D4 Steering Wheel.
Rear Boot Spoiler.
Twin Brake Lights.
Wing Mirror Indicator Repeaters.
Long Roof Rails
Make your own Narpy grill thread
I'm not scared, I'm outta here.
29th Aug 2013 8:06 pm
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8230
No it isn't written in Russian or any other language (I don't think), It is written in plain English, but it can be daunting when you first start. Don't be put off by all the talk of battery failure, the Iid tool will not let you start flashing a module unless it has sufficient charge, just make sure you have a good battery and it is fully charged, do not connect a charger while you are using the tool unless it is a Ctek or equivalent of sufficient capacity (20amp), it only takes a few minuits to actually flash a module.
You are more likely to run a battery down learning how to use it than actually flashing, if you have a small battery charger connect it to the battery on the car after you have finished playing, I would suggest you spend more time with it just exploring the menu without changing anything. I will post you a step by step guide on the instrument flash if you are still struggling. It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
29th Aug 2013 8:32 pm
Narpy
Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Stockport
Posts: 7830
Cheers comrade M3DPO.
Feel free to post away with your step by step guide, it might even help me navigate my way through all the options. Mods:
Front Fogs + Halos
FBH Remote Control
The 1st Ever RRS Modded Grill
Garmin Nuvi + D4 Surround + Reversing Camera.
D4 Steering Wheel.
Rear Boot Spoiler.
Twin Brake Lights.
Wing Mirror Indicator Repeaters.
Long Roof Rails
Make your own Narpy grill thread
I'm not scared, I'm outta here.
29th Aug 2013 8:37 pm
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8230
O.k. Got the (d)istructions in front of me now. I would suggest you down load the manual now you have updated the tool, make sure you download Land Rover Disco 3, User manual v2.18.15 for firmware V2.18.05 and not Range Rover and read page 33/4.
First of all do not enter into the last item on the menu, it has already bean done automatically ( Iid tool Config>find ecu's), it is only used for additional cars.
Switch engine on> plug tool in>battery voltage on dash displayed>press resume on cruise control(enter)>read faults>press '+ speed' until 'ECU flash' is displayed>press enter > '+ speed' until 'instrument pack' is displayed, along with a warning message that cannot be overruled until it has been repeated. > Press enter > press '+ speed ' on cruise control,( you will have to press this more than once to verify the command, you will see 'FLASHING STARTED' and the Iid tool will start flickering if not press + speed again.
The instruments may turn on and off the SatNav may light up, this is normal DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING UNTIL YOU SEE 'FLASHING COMPLETED'. This should only take 70/80 seconds.
The SUSPENSION ECU must now be done exactly the same, you can choose between Hitachi and AMK.
The ignition must be turned off for at least 3 mins before the upgrade will work, this will also make the lights on LED work in 2005/6 models (ex fuelBH LED). Good Luck and leave it until you are not in a hurry It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
Last edited by M3DPO on 30th Aug 2013 8:46 am. Edited 1 time in total
29th Aug 2013 9:32 pm
Narpy
Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Stockport
Posts: 7830
Excellent post.
One thing is puzzling me however, why do I have to then mess with the suspension compressor settings when I only want the clock on dash????
Maybe I'm trying to run before I can walk. Mods:
Front Fogs + Halos
FBH Remote Control
The 1st Ever RRS Modded Grill
Garmin Nuvi + D4 Surround + Reversing Camera.
D4 Steering Wheel.
Rear Boot Spoiler.
Twin Brake Lights.
Wing Mirror Indicator Repeaters.
Long Roof Rails
Make your own Narpy grill thread
I'm not scared, I'm outta here.
29th Aug 2013 10:29 pm
leadoverdistance
Member Since: 05 Sep 2012
Location: Middleburg Va
Posts: 19
Narpy, a few things i noticed while using the IIDTool
It gives you the option of scrolling through ecus to flash using the + on the steering wheel.
The suspension flash is for the new AMK compressor, should you fit one. This apparently is the replacement Land Rover now use for the Disco 3, and is standard on the later Disco 4s. Don't do this unless fitting the new compressor.
If you want the clock on the dash, you flash Instrument software.
A possible negative to some, is that when you turn your lights on, you will get a Red light in the circle to the lower left of the speedo, which is for the "Auxiliary Heater" . It did this with my 2006 NA spec LR3.
If you want the one touch 3 flash indicator, you may also need to flash the BCM ( body control module) software as well. It too is dependent on the year model. I would enable the three flash signal, in the CCF (car configuration) and see if it works. If it doesnt, then boldly flash the BCM. All of these things are under the same software flash chapter.
If you don't like anything you do, you can restore the vehicle using the restore/save chapter, and start fresh.
I hope this helps. Have fun with it!
Paul
Last edited by leadoverdistance on 30th Aug 2013 3:46 pm. Edited 2 times in total
30th Aug 2013 4:10 am
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8230
Narpy wrote:
Excellent post.
One thing is puzzling me however, why do I have to then mess with the suspension compressor settings when I only want the clock on dash????
Maybe I'm trying to run before I can walk.
GAP recommend you do this, only takes a minuit to do it, it is the latest firmware for compressors, some of the parameters are lowered to theoretically extend the life of the compressor.
Just make sure your battery is fully charged before starting to flash, one mistake is to play with it for an hour with the engine switched on, and then decide to flash, as you know one hour with engine on = discharged battery You can use the tool with the engine running for exploring its capabilities, if you decide to make a change and the engine is running the tool will tell you to "switch off engine" It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
30th Aug 2013 8:42 am
PatGAPInnov Site Sponsor
Member Since: 02 Dec 2011
Location: Montreal
Posts: 745
Hi Guys
Maybe I can help a bit here…
From the user manual:
"The RLM Suspension ECU must be updated when the IPC Instrument pack ECU is updated." If the suspension ECU is not updated, the suspension warning light will come on the instrument cluster. I will add this detail in the user manual.
Suspension ECU: User can choose between the Hitachi and AMK compressor firmwares.
Discovery 3/LR3 and Discovery 4/LR4 vehicles up to 2012 were fitted with the Hitachi compressor. In 2012, the AMK compressor which is more robust was introduced and is now fitted to new vehicles. It is also the replacement supplied by Land Rover for older vehicles (including Discovery 3/LR3). Since there are differences between the Hitachi and the AMK compressors, the suspension ECU firmwares are not the same.
If the vehicle is fitted with the Hitachi compressor: The RLM Suspension ECU software update contains modifications on the compressor logic and temperature thresholds. These changes help extend the lifespan of the compressor.
We strongly recommend using a power supply or another vehicle connected on the battery to keep the voltage high enough during re-flashing. This is especially true for the BCM-Body Control ECU. Other recommendations will soon be released in regards to the re-flashing of the BCM. The IIDTool should also be updated to the latest build before ECU re-flashing is performed.
If you need help or have questions, please do not hesitate to contact us.
Cheers
30th Aug 2013 3:08 pm
Narpy
Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Stockport
Posts: 7830
Cheers chaps, I'm going to have a play with my newly acquired gadget this weekend.
I'll report back any progress. Mods:
Front Fogs + Halos
FBH Remote Control
The 1st Ever RRS Modded Grill
Garmin Nuvi + D4 Surround + Reversing Camera.
D4 Steering Wheel.
Rear Boot Spoiler.
Twin Brake Lights.
Wing Mirror Indicator Repeaters.
Long Roof Rails
Make your own Narpy grill thread
I'm not scared, I'm outta here.
30th Aug 2013 3:32 pm
leadoverdistance
Member Since: 05 Sep 2012
Location: Middleburg Va
Posts: 19
Thank you Pat
I wasn't cued to update my compressor when I installed the instrument pack? Currently I have done the BCM and IPC on my 2006 LR3
I don't recall whether it would have asked me to do so when I first plugged it in, pre-update to the latest release.
Many thanks
Paul
30th Aug 2013 3:34 pm
J@mes
Member Since: 10 Nov 2008
Location: Bomber County
Posts: 4547
Why can't you have the vehicle running while making the updates?2014 D4 XS
2005 D3 SE - Gone
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You can use the tool with the engine running for exploring its capabilities, if you decide to make a change and the engine is running the tool will tell you to "switch off engine" 
