Member Since: 08 Apr 2014
Location: California
Posts: 61
Hitachi Compressor - Rebuild or Replace
My compressor is starting to have issues. It starts to over heat pretty quickly, 90°C in about 90 seconds and shuts off. I can also hear the motor slow down before it shuts off and gives an error code.
So my question is, given the symptoms is it worth my time trying a rebuild or should I bit the expensive bullet and replace it? My car just turned 16 and has 169,500 miles.
13th Jan 2021 10:09 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13670
Hiya
Must admit when mine started to go I fitted a new hitachi dryer kit , that came with new filters , silica , metal end cap , then when that didn’t cure the issue I cut my loses and bought a new one
Also if u don’t mind me adding, plse don’t leave it otherwise the silica within the compressors dryer turns to dust and can cause havoc throughout the system / air valve blocks etc and then it’s like a snowball effect , plus plse don’t be tempted with the cheap Chinese copy compressors
Sometimes have to cut the pipes by the dryer so may also need some pushfit couplings
Before I forget, if u have an hitachi compressor and wish to replace it like for like , check ur bracket and the bushings including the clips that secure the bracket to the chassis , also ideal time to paint behind the compressors bracket when it’s off , new compressor will also come with a new relay
There’s also the AMK that u can buy as a complete kit , but of course all depends what route u decide to go with
If u change from a hitachi/ dunlop to an AMK will req a software update
Apologises I’m rambling
Hope that helps
13th Jan 2021 10:43 pm
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8119
If you have the ability, time and tools it is well worth removing and examining the compressor as it can be a comparative simple fault that is causing it to overheat, but try as I may I have never successfully made a long term repair. AMK seem to be more reliable and running on their own software operate at a lower pressure than Hitachi, Hitachi will not run on AMK software.It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
13th Jan 2021 11:25 pm
fusion158
Member Since: 08 Apr 2014
Location: California
Posts: 61
Thankfully I do have the time and means so after the 3 day weekend over here I will pull it out and tear it down. The rebuild kit I am looking at contains all parts necessary to rebuild the compressor and dryer and comes with a metal cap for the dryer filter.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GXGS2...3240e894a8
And thankfully I shouldn't have much on a rust issues. Car has been in California it's whole life and is pretty much rust free, tiny bit of surface rust where paint was scratched on the chassis.
13th Jan 2021 11:44 pm
garrycol
Member Since: 06 Dec 2010
Location: Canberra
Posts: 1115
Just rebuild your Hitachi - piston glide ring, desiccant and filters, new aluminium desiccant cap - clean the central valve block.
The rebuilt kits work great - most replacement Hitachi compressors are junk and fail in short order.
The AMK is not a better compressor and rebuild parts are hard to find.
14th Jan 2021 12:11 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13670
fusion158 wrote:
Thankfully I do have the time and means so after the 3 day weekend over here I will pull it out and tear it down. The rebuild kit I am looking at contains all parts necessary to rebuild the compressor and dryer and comes with a metal cap for the dryer filter.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GXGS2...3240e894a8
And thankfully I shouldn't have much on a rust issues. Car has been in California it's whole life and is pretty much rust free, tiny bit of surface rust where paint was scratched on the chassis.
Hi
Will be a great result if it’s not to far gone , also if it helps I used some plumbers silicone grease for the O rings etc
Plse let us know how things go
14th Jan 2021 5:44 am
Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1783
I did the whole rebuild (piston, etc) a couple of years ago and still going good. The only thing I did was change the 60 amp fuse to a 70 amp fuse.
15th Jan 2021 10:23 am
fusion158
Member Since: 08 Apr 2014
Location: California
Posts: 61
gstuart wrote:
fusion158 wrote:
Thankfully I do have the time and means so after the 3 day weekend over here I will pull it out and tear it down. The rebuild kit I am looking at contains all parts necessary to rebuild the compressor and dryer and comes with a metal cap for the dryer filter.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GXGS2...3240e894a8
And thankfully I shouldn't have much on a rust issues. Car has been in California it's whole life and is pretty much rust free, tiny bit of surface rust where paint was scratched on the chassis.
Hi
Will be a great result if it’s not to far gone , also if it helps I used some plumbers silicone grease for the O rings etc
Plse let us know how things go
I did the rebuild Saturday and so far it's been running perfectly. No more errors
The silica was white and there was traces of it turning to white powder but the filter had kept it from escaping into the rest of the system. Replaced the silica, filters, all o-rings and piston glides and even a new end cap on the filter dryer.
26th Jan 2021 4:55 pm
charlietortoise
Member Since: 29 Oct 2011
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 502
Kit
Too tips thanks. Just ordered the rebuild kit off Amazon. I did the desiccant and cap about 2 years ago and that kept it running ok. I have the iverheat and shut down problem now so I am following your rebuild route.Discovery 4 3.0 HSE 2010 year. I like it a lot. Now with winch 😂
26th Jan 2021 9:40 pm
charlietortoise
Member Since: 29 Oct 2011
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 502
Loose compressor fittings
Hi all, just cleaned up the rear two unions the ones that are usually seized. I can work the pipe within the fitting and also work the clamp ring in and out.
So from you experience does it look like I will be able to uncouple them ok. I would like to if I can but have in line couplings if I have to cut the pipesDiscovery 4 3.0 HSE 2010 year. I like it a lot. Now with winch 😂
19th Feb 2021 5:58 pm
fusion158
Member Since: 08 Apr 2014
Location: California
Posts: 61
I can't give you a good answer on this as I have the unfair advantage of having a Land Rover that has lived in a very dry California so I don't have to deal with the rust issues.
My suggestion would be to give it a spray with WD-40, let it sit, then give it a try.
19th Feb 2021 10:11 pm
charlietortoise
Member Since: 29 Oct 2011
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 502
Wobbly bits
Hi all, to answer my own question. Yes I was able to take out the pipes no problem at all, I worked them a lot last week with plus gas to help free them up. The pipe wobbled inside the ring and with a bit of forward and back pushing I got the rings to move as well.
Did the job this week and all came apart like a dream. I modified the slot on the top bolt and this meant there was no effort in getting the bracket back on either.
Even all the mounting bracket bolts came out with no effort involved.
Happy camper now!Discovery 4 3.0 HSE 2010 year. I like it a lot. Now with winch 😂
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