Member Since: 21 Jul 2021
Location: Surrey
Posts: 7
Split/Cracked Intake Manifold - Fix Steps
Hi all,
I have been quietly browsing as a guest for a while, that is until today when I discovered my inlet manifold (RH, drivers side) had cracked. Diagnosed after freeing up the secondary turbo bypass actuator and replacing the vacuum pipe that engages it, friend revved the car and I saw it lift as pressure boosted up. Presumably the sticking bypass valve led to an overpressure event, and as most D4 owners know, the inlet manifold is a point of weakness (many threads cover this).
I know my way around spanners, sockets and whatnot. So I am embarking on this repair myself, which is where this forum comes in.
I have the workshop manual in PDF form (all 5528 pages of it) but cannot locate the sections (or the correct order) to tackle this in. I would use the coding (303-01C for example) but it does not appear to be printed on my PDF version.
Any help would be appreciated, if I have missed a post on the search results that has a "how-to" or "step-by-step" guide I apologise, the best I have found is mentions of removing various parts and some tricky situations RE the injectors and other bits to replace whilst I am in situ. So if anyone does have a guide, or knows which pages/page titles to go from and tackle this I would appreciate it.
I intend on documenting it myself for posting up afterwards should anyone be interested.
21st Jul 2021 8:37 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20839
Member Since: 21 Jul 2021
Location: Surrey
Posts: 7
Thank you kindly, is there somewhere I missed where these documents are all stored? I am looking to replace both sides (may as well whilst I am there) and understand the procedure for the LHVC is different?
25th Jul 2021 4:57 pm
Nitro159
Member Since: 21 Jul 2021
Location: Surrey
Posts: 7
Apologies for the bump
So after destroying a breather pipe (brittle as heck!) I’ve found myself stuck behind the rubberised cover (not the removable one) attached to the top of the inlet manifold. Absolutely cannot find out how to remove it without damaging it and presumably I want to attach it to the replacements? Also fun fact, the oily residue behind it on the top-most leading edge is confirming the crack is right behind this rubber piece
Any advice would be appreciated!
10th Aug 2021 6:55 pm
andywhi
Member Since: 07 Sep 2021
Location: Oldham
Posts: 1
Just wondering how you got on? I'm planning on tackling the driver's side manifold (after it decided to let us down going on holiday) and still undecided on whether it's too much of a job. Quote from garage at £800ish just for the drivers side is persuading the DIY route
7th Sep 2021 8:20 am
Nitro159
Member Since: 21 Jul 2021
Location: Surrey
Posts: 7
Hi Andy,
I didn’t get as far as I would have liked really. Stripped back to the fuel pipes and whilst removing the injectors had one that just would not budge from its line. I decided to get a garage involved rather than cause damage myself
18th Oct 2021 2:00 pm
Discofixer2
Member Since: 05 Nov 2022
Location: Stafford
Posts: 13
I’ve got the right-hand manifold to do on the D4 2010. Looking at the procedure above ^^^, it seems fairly straightforward (I know, I know…). Everyone mentions 8 hours to do it. What is it that takes the time?
13th Jan 2024 1:53 pm
Carl and Petra
Member Since: 13 Feb 2015
Location: Hautes Pyrenees
Posts: 219
What i found took time was ....everything!
There are so many steps that it just takes time.
The fixings and bolts at the bulkhead side are very awkward as even after you have removed the coolant crossover pipe and the battery cable and long tray above it ( this is the power cable from the battery over to the stop start battery ) you are then leaning over the enging working by touch to remove brackets for the fuel pipes and the manifold bolts themselves desperately trying not to drop your tools or the fixing bolts themselves....blue tac was helpful here.
Not to mention removing the stop start battery and tray and everything that is in the way of the bolts holding the egr valve that need loosening to even get the fuel rail bolts out!
Once you have done that you are stripping out the fuel lines to the injectors and then having fun removing them.
I found a conventional slide hammer was excellent removing these even though people will tell you that you need a slide hammer for injectors....you do not, gentle and patient application of a normal slide hammer will do the job if you already have one.
Then the fuel rail comes out and more besides.
He time is just in how much you have to remove, place safely, photos so you do not forget, and cups of tea!
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just for the drivers side is persuading the DIY route
