Member Since: 10 Oct 2013
Location: Stockton On Tees
Posts: 17
Battery Drain
I've got a 2006 D3 HSE.
New battery 2 years ago and had battery checked and all OK.
If I start and run the car for say 15mins or 20 mins. Get to my destination then stop lock the car and then go I see for say 10mins the go back to the car of I've forgot something the lock it and whe I go back to set off for my journey go to start and quite often dead. Quick 2 or 3 minutes on the boost charger and we're OK good to go.
Anyone any ideas what could be draining the battery so quickly.
7th Nov 2021 2:54 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10669
The LCD Nav display powers up for at least 10 mins. When unlocked
To shut it off, press the radio knob on then off.
Or put the key in and turn to I and then remove
7th Nov 2021 3:19 pm
garybee
Member Since: 23 Oct 2021
Location: Spilsby
Posts: 8
It might not seem appealing but it's far faster to test for what is drawing a current than it is to guess and keep checking potential causes.
You only need a multimeter. Happy to talk you through how if you want to do it.
7th Nov 2021 5:38 pm
aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2463
D3 2.7tdv6 2005
D4 3.0 SDV6 Commercial died and gone to LR heaven
D5 3.0 SDV6 HSE
7th Nov 2021 7:35 pm
garybee
Member Since: 23 Oct 2021
Location: Spilsby
Posts: 8
Hadn't seen that but had a quick scan and isn't the way I'd go. Disconnecting items before you start testing is a strange move. If you don't find a draw you're going to be wondering if it's intermittent or something you disconnected. Much better to test the vehicle in the state it is being used. Also requires a low current DC amp clamp. Common in the tool box of anyone who spends a lot of time diagnosing electrics but not in most people's tool boxes.
Didn't read any further so maybe alternative methods are listed later though.
Best of luck with tracing your fault.
7th Nov 2021 8:52 pm
Motolab
Member Since: 18 Oct 2019
Location: Sleen
Posts: 1820
Re: Battery Drain
Teessidelad33 wrote:
.
If I start and run the car for say 15mins or 20 mins. Get to my destination then stop lock the car and then go I see for say 10mins the go back to the car of I've forgot something the lock it and whe I go back to set off for my journey go to start and quite often dead..
15 min runs are too short too fully charge a battery after using glowplugs and a coldstart…
Maybe using lights and maybe seat heating it gets even more worse.. together with the wakening of the electrical system in between..
If rehearsing this, it gets emptied mora and more…
So maybe longer runs… in between and you can have a look at the dynamo brushes, they wear, so springtension becomes weaker, so does the generated current to charge you battery
NEw brush and regulator unit, is cheap…. Just the needed work takes some time, not to difficult though…Best regards
Harold
Always looking for Pre '55's & Pre war British Motorcycles! knowing or having one for sale? PM please. I visit the UK 6 times a year
Ps. I edit my texts quite often, english is not my native language, so I will edit My “typo’s” etc.
7th Nov 2021 9:41 pm
Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1812
Are we not talking Alternator here
8th Nov 2021 8:27 am
Motolab
Member Since: 18 Oct 2019
Location: Sleen
Posts: 1820
Maybe depending on year, but mine still has brushes and is also a MY06
That was the point a was trying to make
Best regards
Harold
Always looking for Pre '55's & Pre war British Motorcycles! knowing or having one for sale? PM please. I visit the UK 6 times a year
Ps. I edit my texts quite often, english is not my native language, so I will edit My “typo’s” etc.
8th Nov 2021 11:54 am
Teessidelad33
Member Since: 10 Oct 2013
Location: Stockton On Tees
Posts: 17
garybee wrote:
It might not seem appealing but it's far faster to test for what is drawing a current than it is to guess and keep checking potential causes.
You only need a multimeter. Happy to talk you through how if you want to do it.
Should of mentioned I'm an electrician by Trade, I've checked with a Meter and clamp on and nothing noticeable. I've had the battery checked and the alternator checked and all tested fine. alternator is giving out 14.67 Volts when running.
I've even fitted a little Bluetooth battery monitor and this is not even picking anything noticeable up.
Even after long runs it can still do the same, went out for about 90 minutes the other day and after the doors have been opened 2 or 3 times without starting the battery doesnt have enough charge to start. I know i shouldnt forget things and maybe i just have to result to starting the car everytime i forgot something but surely this isnt good for the car either.??
8th Nov 2021 12:24 pm
V8man
Member Since: 01 Jan 2021
Location: Dunno i was just following the satnav😳
Posts: 288
This might be a bit obvious and apologies if I'm talking out of turn but are all the connections tight on the battery / leads / alternator ? Because those are the symptoms of a dud battery yet yours is ok.1996 Defender -died (now in landrover heaven😇)chassis to ashes , rust to dust !
2004 Defender td5 gone
2012 Evoque gone
2007 D3 V8 HSE
8th Nov 2021 12:35 pm
Teessidelad33
Member Since: 10 Oct 2013
Location: Stockton On Tees
Posts: 17
Everything seems tight. If i get out of the car lock it and then walk away then get back in and start it its fine. its when I've been in the car 2 or 3 times unlocking n locking without starting it that it goes dead.
thats why I'm thinking more battery drain and maybe something is staying awake ?
8th Nov 2021 12:44 pm
Motolab
Member Since: 18 Oct 2019
Location: Sleen
Posts: 1820
Teessidelad33 wrote:
all tested fine. alternator is giving out 14.67 Volts when running.
Still… that is measured stationary (motor/car not moving) the motor driving has a totally other resonance frequency….. even measuring when driving can give resonable/good results, but that can be so because most measuring devices can be slower than the current drops occurrence…
Bottom line, we as a automotive repairshop, have seen this a lot….
But hej, that is us
Only mentioned this because it CAN be ONE of the possible causes along many others ofcourseBest regards
Harold
Always looking for Pre '55's & Pre war British Motorcycles! knowing or having one for sale? PM please. I visit the UK 6 times a year
Ps. I edit my texts quite often, english is not my native language, so I will edit My “typo’s” etc.
8th Nov 2021 1:06 pm
Teessidelad33
Member Since: 10 Oct 2013
Location: Stockton On Tees
Posts: 17
The measurement was whilst moving, confirmed with the bluetooth voltmeter but also rigged up my multimeter and measured whilst driving over 10-15 minutes.
I'm happy to try anything but at the minute I'm not getting anywhere fast.
8th Nov 2021 2:03 pm
matgriff
Member Since: 16 Sep 2019
Location: Newcastle Under Lyme, Staffs
Posts: 171
Had a very similar problem with my 2005 SE... If I left it a day or two it wouldn't have enough power to turn over, even after a full charge. I also associated it with unlocking/locking again without switching on, as the 4WD screen seemed to stay on for a long time.
before digging in too deep with the fault finding (I'm also power electronics by trade) I decided to replace the battery as the date code on it was 2016, as I figure I'd be chasing my tail around with a duff or weak battery... sure enough I fitted the new one £79 delivered from Tanya batteries and it spun over much faster and the problem has completely gone away.
The original battery had a high internal resistance, the voltage was OK but when it was flat I measured the time to when the smart charger thought it was full, and I estimated it only had about 50% capacity.2005 TDV6 SE Auto
Cairns Blue
8th Nov 2021 4:14 pm
Teessidelad33
Member Since: 10 Oct 2013
Location: Stockton On Tees
Posts: 17
Thats interesting to know. I might just go for it and change the battery then im starting from a known good base.
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