Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4658
gstuart wrote:
PROFSR G wrote:
Great, see how that goes
Hi buddy
Really hope I’ve done this correctly , got it down a dual carriageway, the vibration now starts around 60 mph , took it up to 80 mph and to be honest the vibration didn’t increase but was there, disappears below 55mph
All I’ve done was to mess around with the iAT sensor ( have ordered a new one as not happy with it )
It simply wouldn’t go into limp mode , tried my best but now fault code is turbo underboost
Click image to enlarge
OK so that's a different scenario to the last outing!!
Either you have a boost leak or the VGT actuator is sticking. Clear all the codes and do another test run Gary just like the last one! It might just be lack of use causing the problem. Forget about wiring diagrams or you're going to end up going down every rabbit hole in Kent.
Start with the simple stuff and keep it simple until you have to do otherwise, but if the same codes pops up on the next run it's likely a boost leak or sticky actuator!! yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
4th Dec 2021 9:57 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13657
As always Many thks and very grateful
Indeed it did seem better that’s for sure , will fit that new iAT sensor I’ve ordered in the next few weeks as it should be here in the next week or so
Think ur right mate, will give it another test once I’ve fitted that new iAT , to be honest I don’t think it will make any difference but just simoly don’t like the way it’s connected and would rather resolve the issues in the comfort on my drive and not on the side of the road
Just realised ref if there’s a hose leak, got that smoke testing machine I bought earlier this year , orginally was to test for a water leak ingress into the cabin , has an inflatable bellows for intercooler hoses , so if I do need to check can easily hook that up and would also test the intercooler itself
Thks again and will update u after I’ve fitted that iAT sensor and do another road test with the same things selected in the iid
Ref theses results , that was around 15 x mins long
Hope ur good mate and thks again
Ps, that FBH pcb and remote turned up , at the time I paid £40 , looked on eBay and is now £240 , but that’s for another day , lol
4th Dec 2021 10:15 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4658
Smoke test will be a useful as a chocolate tea pot if there's a leaking hose!! It will need to be under pressure to produce a discernable leak.
New MAP sensor won't hurt but you could clean (spray) the current one and see if it helps. Road testing and diagnostics are your friend with these issues. Sitting on the driveway wont get you there!yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
4th Dec 2021 10:27 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13657
Thks mate , must admit did wonder about cleaning that sensor but was worried in case it fell apart seeing it’s being held together with cable ties , new one comes with the sensor and the complete housing
This was the smoke machine I got and indeed won’t bother unless I need to go further and like u say , fit the sensor and then give it another road test and see what happens
Thks again buddy
4th Dec 2021 10:33 pm
DN D3 Decade
Member Since: 24 Jun 2006
Location: W.London.
Posts: 2294
Gary, that IAT sensor connector with the cable ties round it, is it that that is damaged, or the actual sensor itself ? Or have you not risked touching it at the moment ?D3 owned from new, P017 brake recall, BAS FBHIC, new FBH, LR013487 oil pump, new water pump. RRS front lower suspension arms. New suspension compressor/ relay. New Denso alternator. CuNifer rear brake pipes. New GKN rear propshaft. New HPFP belt & tensioner. New A/C Condenser.NO WARRANTY for many many years.
4th Dec 2021 11:43 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13657
Hi @DN
To be honest I’m not sure if it’s damaged or not, just when I saw it I ordered a new one as didn’t want to ignore it and find later on it breaks completely and end up at the side of the road
If I’m understanding it correctly it’s like 2 x sensors on one as seen it listed as a Maf / iAT sensor
Looking at the live data the Maf is working but not sure if the iAT is, alas it might not make the slightest difference , just peace of mind
Curious today as it did seem slightly better so wonder if a signal is going into the sensor and not back out ,or something totally different seeing the boost pressure actuator 1 comes up N/A , so will fit it and see if anything has changed
Here’s a pic as well and part number if it ever helps anyone else , plus before I fit the new one am thinking if I can get an ohms reading with the new one disconnected and then compare it with the old one as a comparison , wondered if it acts like a NTC thermistor etc
Sorry I’m waffling again , lol , will of course update this thread after I’ve fitted the new one
Click image to enlarge
5th Dec 2021 12:01 am
DN D3 Decade
Member Since: 24 Jun 2006
Location: W.London.
Posts: 2294
I have fitted one of those inlet housings, but I found I had to blank off that open pipe connection on it, as that is not on my original D3 one. It is used on the D4 I believe. I’m unsure if the sensor will just twist out, if you just wanted to replace that instead of the whole housing. PS, I also had to ‘dremel’ away a bit of the engine cover to clear that pipe stub too. Not sure if you want to go to all that trouble . Good luck with it anyhow D3 owned from new, P017 brake recall, BAS FBHIC, new FBH, LR013487 oil pump, new water pump. RRS front lower suspension arms. New suspension compressor/ relay. New Denso alternator. CuNifer rear brake pipes. New GKN rear propshaft. New HPFP belt & tensioner. New A/C Condenser.NO WARRANTY for many many years.
5th Dec 2021 12:10 am
Lumi
Member Since: 29 Oct 2021
Location: London
Posts: 55
gstuart wrote:
Ah the joys of ownership and always like throwing a tantrum when it’s bloody cold
Where’s the fun otherwise?
I’m on top of a flatbed bouncing towards beaconsfield service, Someone else will bring us home tomorrow.
This time I’m the one looking inside the cabin of trucks from my car, proper fun
Glad you’re making progress
5th Dec 2021 12:25 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4658
gstuart wrote:
Hi @DN
To be honest I’m not sure if it’s damaged or not, just when I saw it I ordered a new one as didn’t want to ignore it and find later on it breaks completely and end up at the side of the road
If I’m understanding it correctly it’s like 2 x sensors on one as seen it listed as a Maf / iAT sensor
Looking at the live data the Maf is working but not sure if the iAT is, alas it might not make the slightest difference , just peace of mind
Curious today as it did seem slightly better so wonder if a signal is going into the sensor and not back out ,or something totally different seeing the boost pressure actuator 1 comes up N/A , so will fit it and see if anything has changed
Here’s a pic as well and part number if it ever helps anyone else , plus before I fit the new one am thinking if I can get an ohms reading with the new one disconnected and then compare it with the old one as a comparison , wondered if it acts like a NTC thermistor etc
Sorry I’m waffling again , lol , will of course update this thread after I’ve fitted the new one
Click image to enlarge
Hang on Gary, I know you mentioned previously the IAT sensor, but DN has just made me realise we might be thinking on different pathways here!
Your IAT sensor if I understand your posts correctly seems to be working fine, despite the rudimentary cable ties. My earlier post suggesting "a clean" was for the "MAP sensor" which is a completely different component, albeit it does live next door!
The reason is that the "MAP" sensor holds a very significant influence over the operation of the turbo boost actuator, which the IAT does not!!
If your GAP IID is showing an IAT temp not too far away from the ambient, then it's very likely there's nothing wrong with that sensor! Remove and check the MAP sensor (5 mins), and clean it carb or brake cleaner but don't poke anything into it.
That said, it is beginning to look like a pressure leak based on your latest dtc's. That could mean a hose has split, or possibly one of the manifolds has developed a crack. If it is the latter the smoke tester will then perhaps finally pay it’s way!!!yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
5th Dec 2021 4:17 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13657
DN wrote:
I have fitted one of those inlet housings, but I found I had to blank off that open pipe connection on it, as that is not on my original D3 one. It is used on the D4 I believe. I’m unsure if the sensor will just twist out, if you just wanted to replace that instead of the whole housing. PS, I also had to ‘dremel’ away a bit of the engine cover to clear that pipe stub too. Not sure if you want to go to all that trouble . Good luck with it anyhow
Many thks for the heads up with regards to that blanking plug, managed to add it to the order , suppose at the end of the day as it wasn’t very expensive thought I would replace it for peace of mind
Have a dremel just in case , lol
5th Dec 2021 7:54 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13657
PROFSR G wrote:
gstuart wrote:
Hi @DN
To be honest I’m not sure if it’s damaged or not, just when I saw it I ordered a new one as didn’t want to ignore it and find later on it breaks completely and end up at the side of the road
If I’m understanding it correctly it’s like 2 x sensors on one as seen it listed as a Maf / iAT sensor
Looking at the live data the Maf is working but not sure if the iAT is, alas it might not make the slightest difference , just peace of mind
Curious today as it did seem slightly better so wonder if a signal is going into the sensor and not back out ,or something totally different seeing the boost pressure actuator 1 comes up N/A , so will fit it and see if anything has changed
Here’s a pic as well and part number if it ever helps anyone else , plus before I fit the new one am thinking if I can get an ohms reading with the new one disconnected and then compare it with the old one as a comparison , wondered if it acts like a NTC thermistor etc
Sorry I’m waffling again , lol , will of course update this thread after I’ve fitted the new one
Click image to enlarge
Hang on Gary, I know you mentioned previously the IAT sensor, but DN has just made me realise we might be thinking on different pathways here!
Your IAT sensor if I understand your posts correctly seems to be working fine, despite the rudimentary cable ties. My earlier post suggesting "a clean" was for the "MAP sensor" which is a completely different component, albeit it does live next door!
The reason is that the "MAP" sensor holds a very significant influence over the operation of the turbo boost actuator, which the IAT does not!!
If your GAP IID is showing an IAT temp not too far away from the ambient, then it's very likely there's nothing wrong with that sensor! Remove and check the MAP sensor (5 mins), and clean it carb or brake cleaner but don't poke anything into it.
That said, it is beginning to look like a pressure leak based on your latest dtc's. That could mean a hose has split, or possibly one of the manifolds has developed a crack. If it is the latter the smoke tester will then perhaps finally pay it’s way!!!
Apologises , I’ll ensure I also clean the Map sensor as well , to be honest I didnt think that iAT sensor would make any difference , just don’t like the cable ties and would hate for it to start giving me issues down the road
Have got silicone intercooler hoses however u never know ref a split of clamp, most of them I replaced with T bolt clamps but will of course have a further good look around to see if there’s anything obvious , if not will see what that smoke machine shows, assume I would only need a max of around 5 Psi
Will let u know after I’ve fitted the new iAT , cleaned the Map and checked the hoses , etc
Plus hope I can find this Boost pressure actuator - Bank 1 and why it’s coming up N/A, but now have the wiring diagrams and awesome advice , also found a picture of that connector on the turbo , hopefully I won’t need to go there
Thks so much once again
5th Dec 2021 7:58 am
DN D3 Decade
Member Since: 24 Jun 2006
Location: W.London.
Posts: 2294
I realise that this may not be your immediate problem, but was just wondering, if that IAT sensor connector is physically broken under those cable ties, would you be able to get hold of a new one, and replace it ? ( I know, you have sourced other obscure connectors in the past).D3 owned from new, P017 brake recall, BAS FBHIC, new FBH, LR013487 oil pump, new water pump. RRS front lower suspension arms. New suspension compressor/ relay. New Denso alternator. CuNifer rear brake pipes. New GKN rear propshaft. New HPFP belt & tensioner. New A/C Condenser.NO WARRANTY for many many years.
5th Dec 2021 10:15 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13657
Hiya
Many thks and a very good point and wondered that myself , however I got a complete second hand engine wiring loom and fuse box from a D3 HSE , originally bought when I wanted connectors etc to for heated windscreen washer jets which i retrofitted
So looks like that will come in handy yet again
Plus have spent hours going through different wiring diagrams etc , earth connections that go to the ECM are behind the passenger side wheel arch arch liner , just in case I need to check them
Found a picture of those earth leads and don’t know if that tape is covering bare wires or not , located the connector 2274 that’s on the left hand side of the engine bays fuse box
Yeh i know I need to get out more, just spent time trying to find the relevant connectors etc
So grateful for the help, thank u and hopefully this will help someone else when that Boost pressure actuator - Bank 1 comes up N/A
Bits should be here by next week , will fit them and check the connectors at the same time , but to be honest can see me having to going through the loom and belling the wires out end to end at various connectors back to the ECM
Looks like I should be able to back probe the turbo actuator and also can’t ever remember checking the connections on the ECM
Also curious if I do a Canbus test to see if it throws anything up voltage wise ??
Apologises am waffling again , lol , Thks again
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Earth wires
Click image to enlarge
Earth wires
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Connector 2274 circled in red
Click image to enlarge
6th Dec 2021 9:46 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13657
Also found CM Harness Connector C2518 Pin details , has the VGT signal wires and grounds
Plus think I better get a magnifying glass to see the PIN numbers
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
6th Dec 2021 10:19 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4658
gstuart wrote:
Hiya
Many thks and a very good point and wondered that myself , however I got a complete second hand engine wiring loom and fuse box from a D3 HSE , originally bought when I wanted connectors etc to for heated windscreen washer jets which i retrofitted
So looks like that will come in handy yet again
Plus have spent hours going through different wiring diagrams etc , earth connections that go to the ECM are behind the passenger side wheel arch arch liner , just in case I need to check them
Found a picture of those earth leads and don’t know if that tape is covering bare wires or not , located the connector 2274 that’s on the left hand side of the engine bays fuse box
Yeh i know I need to get out more, just spent time trying to find the relevant connectors etc
So grateful for the help, thank u and hopefully this will help someone else when that Boost pressure actuator - Bank 1 comes up N/A
Bits should be here by next week , will fit them and check the connectors at the same time , but to be honest can see me having to going through the loom and belling the wires out end to end at various connectors back to the ECM
Looks like I should be able to back probe the turbo actuator and also can’t ever remember checking the connections on the ECM
Also curious if I do a Canbus test to see if it throws anything up voltage wise ??
Apologises am waffling again , lol , Thks again
Remember what I said about rabbit holes Gary, it's very easy to end up chasing "red herrings"!!
You can see from your screen shot the PWM signal is present for the turbo actuator (PID), and there is an adjustment value being displayed (57%). So the ECM is trying to influence the turbo actuator, it just seems you're not getting the data back from the actuator, or it's not being displayed for some reason.
Do you have any live values data for the boost temp sensor that you have ordered? ie Is it showing a value? And yes, probe the actuator to make sure it's completely free!yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
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