Member Since: 03 Sep 2018
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 589
Led light bar, switch and wiring questions
Hi,
I have searched but not found the answers...
I'm hoping Santa drops me some cash so I can fit a curved led lightbar and some rear work lights.
I want to wire the lightbar so it wil come on with the high beam, but with a switch to turn if off if required. I'm not sure if it's asolutely necessary to be able to turn it off or not, but suppose a switch is easier to install from the beginning rather than afterwards.
Is there an option/part number for an original switch (picture below from a D3) and fixing panel like there is on the Disco 3 for the Disco 4? A post I found suggests the panel for the 3 doesn't fit the 4, but I can't find a part that does.
Can anyone tell me what length of wiring harness I need too?
I don't want to fit a switch in the hole/pocket opposite side of the park brake as found on a search of here, as thats where I put my house keys and it doesn't look original in MHO. If not, any suggestions where to fit a switch and one that will match the interior or look original as possible?
Lastly, it will be triggered by the high beam, but is there any benefit from wiring it to an aux battery (not yet fitted the split charge system) or should I just fit it to the main battery?
Thanks all.
23rd Dec 2021 10:21 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14144
Apologises I can’t help with regards to the wiring as I’ve bought a genuine spot light loom, also not sure if the switch panel will fit a D4, other members should be along soon to let u know
Admittedly I was always told that when fitting aux lights that it had to have an isolation switch , others will be able to also verify that 100%
Only other part number I’ve found is VPLAV0019
Pa, hope Santa brings all that u wished for , lol
Last edited by gstuart on 23rd Dec 2021 11:45 pm. Edited 3 times in total
23rd Dec 2021 11:22 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14144
Member Since: 16 Jun 2021
Location: Cambs
Posts: 24
I wired mine up on my TD5 using a remote control switch and a relay so no need to have wiring/switch in the cabin. I also wired them to come on with high beam but could turn them off using the remote fob which came with the switch. Amazon sell them.
24th Dec 2021 9:43 am
NikBrown27
Member Since: 09 Feb 2021
Location: Earls Colne
Posts: 174
I have my two sets running through switches that I had fitted next to the lights switch.
24th Dec 2021 11:26 am
Davethegeo
Member Since: 01 Oct 2015
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 914
I've just installed a light bar (Stedi ST1K) and all the associated gubbins and wiring.
Here's the lightbar bolted to the handy existing metalwork in front of the radiator and behind the grille. The grille needed a tiny amount of plastic cutting away to avoid it fouling the light bar. I did it with a mini hacksaw blade.
Click image to enlarge
Showing the wires for the power to the light bar disappearing towards the auxiliary battery box
And this is how stealth the position of the light bar is. The bars in the grille appear to have no effect on the light output.
Click image to enlarge
I took the power for the lightbar from the auxiliary (stop/start) battery, and all the excess wiring and the relay are stuffed in the battery box. (Note to self, must tidy that up...). My fingers are holding the power cables that feed the relay and you can see they are connected to the stop start battery.
The only tricky bit was feeding wires through the grommet in the bulkhead. There's a sharp edge the far side of that hole as the bulkhead is two sheets of metal. Skinned fingers and forearms were the result. Here are the wires going through the grommet. The wiring loom that came with teh lightbar was probably more robust than it needed to be and more universal than I needed and so both the switched power, earth and three wires for the switch went through the grommet. Switched power (12V when main beams is on) needn't go back to the relay (and therefore through the grommet) but can go direct to the switch. But anyway, that's how the look was wired so I went with it.
I took the 12V main beam signal from the thin black/blue wire from the middle connector behind the panel by my right driving foot (as detailed elsewhere in this forum). The wire carries 12V when the main beam is on. No need for faffing about with OBD and Canbus.
This is the switch I went for, installed on the headlight switch panel. There's room for one or two switches (as NikBrown shows) but they should need a 15mm hole - 20mm is too big. I chose my switch as I wanted a tell tale light when it is switched on. Switches were from 12VPlanet or Sinolec.
I'm pleased with the result and delighted with the Stedi lightbar.
PS. I have one of those original LR switches and connectors, surplus to requirements. I couldn't find anywhere to fit it in the D4.D1 300Tdi - gone
D2 Td5 ES (Alive remapped...mmm) - sadly gone
D4 2012 SDV6 XS - Stolen
D4 2014 SDV6 HSE - Shiny
If Jamez doesn't want that switch (only fair to offer it to OP first) I would happily pass some shekels your way for it? Just what I'm after for my latest project.
Cheers
AlI know it's not considered "kind" to say no these days, but no. Just no, ok? And if it's not ok, still no.
24th Dec 2021 1:23 pm
Davethegeo
Member Since: 01 Oct 2015
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 914
Noted Al.
Jamez. Are you still after that switch?D1 300Tdi - gone
D2 Td5 ES (Alive remapped...mmm) - sadly gone
D4 2012 SDV6 XS - Stolen
D4 2014 SDV6 HSE - Shiny
24th Dec 2021 1:28 pm
jamez79
Member Since: 03 Sep 2018
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 589
Hi All,
Sorry for the delay in replying. Been at ork all day (and at work all day tomorrow too. Yay )
Thanks for all the tips and advice. Really appreiate the help.
I really like the two switches on the light switch panel. 8) It makes sense to fit them there as they're lights so it's intuitive to have them on the same panel.
Don't suppose you've got a link for them have you? I wonder if they do an illuminated version?
I also really like the hidden lightbar too. I was going to fit it just above the number plate, but wasn't sure if it would be vulnerable there or restrict air flow. Behind the grill like that offers some protection and makes it nice and discreet.
Merry Christmas folks!
24th Dec 2021 8:59 pm
jamez79
Member Since: 03 Sep 2018
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 589
Sorry to be a pain, GStuart you mention the switch being a 3amp. May I ask, what amp switch should I go for?
Am I correct thinking the switch is just to trigger the relay, so I would sort wiring for the led depending on the amps/watts etc. If the switch is just a trigger via the head light, would I have to match the wire thickness for the headlight?
Bet you can't tell I don't have a clue what I'm tlaking about.
Davethegeo, I'll get some of the small round switches, so thanks but I won't need the switch. May I ask what size that lightbar is please?
NoDo$h, thanks for being a Gent and offering me first refusal. Hope it comes in handy for your project.
24th Dec 2021 9:08 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14144
Hiya
Just wished to mention it as wasn’t sure what ur max amp rating is of ur lightbar , I’m going to fit a pair of spots and there draw is 5 x amps each
I’ll be installing a genuine Land Rover spotlight loom , the fuse box rating is 15 x amp , got some 20 x amp wires which matches the spotlight wiring , just done that to ensure the fuse will blow before any wiring is affected
Plus the switch I got is 20x amp , think that’s abit if an overkill but just wished to mention it so ur switch and wiring is rated above ur light bar amperage as a saftey margin
Hope that helps
25th Dec 2021 3:11 am
jamez79
Member Since: 03 Sep 2018
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 589
Hi,
That makes sense. I'll make sure I get a correctly rated switch.
Cheers
25th Dec 2021 8:11 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14144
Ur so welcome and glad it made sense as I know I’m terrible for waffling , lol
Meant to also say I went for one of these carling switches instead as easier to mount into my existing panel , preferred it as it’s low profile , Can also select what u want on the front of the
switch as it’s laser etched and not a sticker
Yep , I need to get out more
Plus as a side note these small round ones are 20 x amps , assume that will be an overkill but just came across them and wished to share the link in case there useful
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and it doesn't look original in MHO. If not, any suggestions where to fit a switch and one that will match the interior or look original as possible?
)
Hope it comes in handy for your project.
