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Arouca7
Member Since: 01 Feb 2022
Location: Rio de Janeiro
Posts: 15
  
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| No crank and faults everywhere. |
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Well guys, here's the situation..
I have a post here looking for help to buy a cheap scanner that could help me with all the problems I have. The scanner arrived yesterday (iCarsoft LR 2.0) and I'm a bit worry, let me explain from the beginning...
I bought my Disco 3 08/09 2.7 a month a half ago, the price was great, and the car was parked for the last 15 months. When I first saw the car, the suspension was lowered on the grand (I thought, with all this months parked, that would be normal), and the battery was dead. The previous owner said that the car was parked with only one problem: the suspension was unstable, with some air release on the front right corner and horrible drive, but has new compressor and 2 new bags. He said that a LR mechanic told him that the problem was with the suspension module.
Ok, I took the risk I towed to the front of my house (I had to release the emergency hook under the center console for the ebp and release the shifter from park with the with button under the shifter console). Recharged the battery and everything seems fine, until I try to start.. nothing happened, only click noises from the relays on the fuse box behind the glove box.
The shifts still stuck in P; the park brake button has light when I turn the headlights on, but is dead, doesn't do anything; the nav system never light up; but everything else seems to work ok (accessories).
In my extensive research for answers here in the forum, I saw that the starter relay can be bypass with a jump wire. I tested before and the relay was ok, and it has 12v on the pin. I managed to make the car crank and started like a champ! No worry's about dead starter, or bad motor, or fuel pumps, and the suspension work! I drove only in my street and it was horrible, the suspension was releasing air on the front e everything shakes.
After a little brake bleed to raise the pedal up, I put the car in the garage to work.
Note: the brake still has air and the pedal isn't great. My garage is on hill and the car is bulletproof (I live in Rio), so is much more heavy, and there's a problem with the Maf sensor (I guess, as the scanner shows) that makes the car loose power.. I couldn't climb the hill with enough power and the brakes couldn't stopped.. I ended in the garden of my front neighbor. I don't know how, but nothing broke, with the car, with the garden... Miracle.
Put the car backwards and there was power enough to put on my garage, and still sits there until now, waiting the scanner. Sometimes I jump the starter relay and start the car only to make the oil flow and recharge the battery.
The screen shows so many things..
So, waiting for the scanner, I try everything I saw here that could be a problem, like:
Cleaned all the ground points; check the fuses and relays for short or corrosion (there was a little corrosion on the bottom of the internal fuse box, I cleaned); search for the spliced wires on the right side floor (everything perfect, non a single trace of water damage); checked the connectors in both modules behind the battery tray (the transmission one has a sticker with a date and a logo of a company that makes imports, the same one on the new compressor, so I believe they changed both at the same time... Weird); and a few steps more.
On the cluster it shows: Transmission fault gears limited gears available; park brake off lift switch to apply (and a big Red (P) flashing all the time);
Now what the scanner told me.
Diesel V6:
- P0069 - manifold absolute pressure - barometric pressure correlation;
- P1621 - immobilizer code words do not match;
ABS:
- P0101 - Lost Communication with transmission control Unit;
SRS:
- B0090 - Left Frontal restraints sensor;
- B1A00 - Control Module;
IP (instrument pack):
- U0001- High speed CAN communication Bus;
- P0001 - No DTC description (????)
PBCM (Parking Brake control module):
- C1A55 - ignition switch input circuit;
- P0101 - Lost Communication with transmission control module;
ATCM (All terrain control module):
- P0101 - Lost Communication with transmission control module;
- U0132 - Lost Communication with ride level control module;
BCM (Body Control Module):
- B1B55 - Rain Sensor module;
- B1C82 - Headlamp washer relay coil circuit;
SASM ( steering angle sensor module):
- U0300 - internal control module software incompatibility;
TCCM (transfer case control module):
- P0101 - Lost Communication with transmission control module;
- U0132 - Lost Communication with ride level control module;
VDCM ( vehicle dynamics control module):
- P0101 - Lost Communication with transmission control module;
I leave the HVAC module and audio module out of the list because I don't think it's important right now.
I'm kind of lost now.. the disco 3 always been my father dream car and he is very sad with all the problems, I willing to do everything to make everything work again.
Any help, tips and pray are welcome, sorry for my horrible English and the long text.
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 23rd Feb 2022 10:56 pm |
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Nutterwatts
Member Since: 12 Aug 2020
Location: Bristol
Posts: 57
 
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I'd say this is your issue:
- P1621 - immobilizer code words do not match;
It's not starting because the code on the key doesn't match. Have you got another key you can try?
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| 24th Feb 2022 1:02 am |
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Arouca7
Member Since: 01 Feb 2022
Location: Rio de Janeiro
Posts: 15
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I was wondering that the key may be a problem.. It came with 2 keys, both seems totally flat to me, because I can only lock and unlock the car with the blade on the door, the buttons do nothing.
Both are in terrible shape, holes in the black plastic button part and one is missing the button in the board, but I was looking for buy a new case and they have different frequency, don't know why (I can post pictures of them if that help).
Is a flat key battery make the ignition turn once and power everything but make unable to give the signal to the modules to work and crank the car? If that is the biggest problem I have, I guess I'm a lucky guy.
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| 24th Feb 2022 3:58 am |
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Matty 2332
Member Since: 02 Dec 2008
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 670
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Is it worth trying a brand new car battery? these things can be very temperamental when the main battery gets old and can throw up many faults.
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| 24th Feb 2022 7:47 am |
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Arouca7
Member Since: 01 Feb 2022
Location: Rio de Janeiro
Posts: 15
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It it's brand new, only 6 months. I believe that the pre owner bought to try to start the car and let it go for the same problem I'm having, not cranking.
If the key fob battery is crucial to make the engine run, not just for unlock the doors, probably it's was already shot when he bought the new car battery.
I'm just saying to believe in something really easy, all my hopes are in this right now.. rs
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| 24th Feb 2022 10:06 am |
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Mr Brill
Member Since: 23 Feb 2022
Location: Oxfordshire
Posts: 3
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Hi Arouca,
I'm not sure what is causing all your error faults, but one thing I can say is that recently my alternator failed & I did not realise it had failed until every warning light on the vehicle flashed on. I stopped at the side of the road & turned off the engine, and of course when I tried to start it again the battery was completely flat.
I'm just wondering if as you say your Disco had been stood for a good while & the batttery was completely drained, if that could be the cause of all your faults.
If your scanner has the ability to clear down the faults I would start by doing that, make sure the battery is fully charged before doing this, then start the vehicle & see what faults re-appear, if any.
Cheers
Mr Brill
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| 24th Feb 2022 12:56 pm |
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Arouca7
Member Since: 01 Feb 2022
Location: Rio de Janeiro
Posts: 15
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Hi Mr. Bill, and thank you for your help.
I thought that the alternator was a potential point of failure, the pre owner said that it was new, replaced no long before the car was parked. At first sight, It doesn't look so new to me, maybe a used unit, but good.
Before the scanner arrive, I managed to make a test with a simple multimeter, jumping the starter relay to start the car e measure the volts on the battery, and looks ok, 14.2V. One of the first things I did with the scanner was measure with the proper tool, and it shows 14.2, so I don't think that is my problem right now.
I'm very concerned with this "no cranking" thing, It's pretty obvious that something Isn't communicating and not allowing the modules work correctly and make the signal do the starter realy, and I truly believe the car was parked working fine in this part, just don't know what to do, what else look to figure out.
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| 24th Feb 2022 9:55 pm |
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Ruper
Member Since: 28 Jun 2019
Location: Virginia
Posts: 318
  
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| Serach No crank no start on here |
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You will see a couple threads concening your exact problem, which I am in right now.
There are some tests which will help you narrow down wiring issues and immobilizer issues.
Also as far as your keys, there is a bad splice in the passenger side wire run, under the scuff plates that is your problem. This will also be covered by a search here.
When the key is turned and you get the click, check the red led lights under the speedo, little red lite will stop blinking when/if the immobilizer is functioning properly. If not I think that means your immobilizer is shot.
This would not be the best news as that part is not a simple swap and play. Oh how I wish it was.
Good luck 2005 Land Rover D3, 4.4L V8, Maya Gold Metallic
1966 Scout 800, 196 cu.in.
1975 Scout II, 392 cu.in.
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| 6th Apr 2024 11:13 pm |
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