Member Since: 20 Jan 2022
Location: Bletsoe
Posts: 26
Front caliper QUESTION
I have changed the front brake pads on my 2005 D3 2.7. All good but the passenger side front caliper seems to be binding - dust appearing on a clean wheel and quite a lot of heat. I did notice that one pot was harder to push in on this caliper when I did the pads.
Two dumb questions:
1. Can you push the pots in one at a time or have I broken anything?
2. Can I change only one caliper? The other side is fine.
Thanks in advance.
9th May 2022 7:57 pm
rrhool
Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4519
Yes you can push the pistons independently, no problem.
Yes you could change one caliper. Chances are the other one won't be far behind the first. Personally I'd change both.Richard
D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.
Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone
Can't think of any reason why pushing each pot in turn would be an issue ... and it looks like it helped you identify the issue.
Just had a single rear caliper done. Can't see any issues with opposite side.
The brake parts supplier sent out genuine parts on a hefty exchange basis..
Dean
====================================
2011 D4 XS - OBD port protection, RLD spare wheel protector, All LED interiors lights, Timed Climate enabled, iiD tool paired.
2011 D4 Landmark - Stolen from same dealer before I paid for it
2011 D4 GS - Stolen whilst at dealer ... All LED interiors lights, DRLs, Spare Wheel protector.
1996 300Tdi - Eaten by tin worms
9th May 2022 8:27 pm
colinp007
Member Since: 20 Jan 2022
Location: Bletsoe
Posts: 26
Thank you both for your prompt replies Much appreciated.
9th May 2022 8:54 pm
Yankee_Rover
Member Since: 02 Jun 2021
Location: Seattle
Posts: 183
Rebuilding calipers is also quite easy and will save you money. You should verify your brake hose isn’t swollen, as they age they can develop blockages internally and start to function like a one way valve. If you crack the bleed screw and get a blast of brake fluid, you’ll be certain the hose is bad.2008 LR3 HSE, 4.4L V8
10th May 2022 3:35 am
colinp007
Member Since: 20 Jan 2022
Location: Bletsoe
Posts: 26
Thanks will try that!
10th May 2022 6:18 am
Flapper
Member Since: 04 Feb 2015
Location: Gloucester
Posts: 352
as above check the pipe.
Also i resurrected a rear caliper which was sticking on, with red rubber grease.
lift the rubber seal with a screwdriver and smear the grease under the seal. i think it lubricates the "O" ring on the piston.
Then give it pull and push and twist and it should be ok.
10th May 2022 11:53 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10676
The rear callipers have a groove that needs cleaning out, otherwise the problem will reoccur.
Don't know about the fronts
10th May 2022 4:27 pm
colinp007
Member Since: 20 Jan 2022
Location: Bletsoe
Posts: 26
I looked at the caliper again today - one of the pots goes in and out no problems. The other seems totally stuck. Decent pressure on the pedal wont move the pot. I think for my expertise level and the cost a new caliper seems best. Really grateful for all comments and all noted for future reference.
10th May 2022 5:03 pm
galwaygreen
Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: plymouth
Posts: 6525
your try to stop 2.7 tons....if calipers are original...yuove had your dollar out of them.
10th May 2022 11:15 pm
Flapper
Member Since: 04 Feb 2015
Location: Gloucester
Posts: 352
You should verify your brake hose isn’t swollen, as they age they can develop blockages internally and start to function like a one way valve.
I have a sticking caliper. It is only 11 months old and probably 5000km, they still look new. Caliper and bracket were both replaced at the same time, and the slides are still free. When I pushed in the pistons, I did them one at a time. But when I would push in one, the other would extend. When I tried to push both in at the same time, it took a lot of force. I had to use two large C clamps.
Would this point to the flex lines?
Then test drove and after a short drive, the non sticking side rotor was about 175-200F, while the sticking side was 400F.
Thanks2006 SE 4.0 V6 with rear locker
21st May 2024 7:41 pm
Worms
Member Since: 24 Sep 2023
Location: Highlands
Posts: 398
Perhaps a silly question but did you take the top off the brake fluid reservoir? If not then you are simply forcing the fluid out to the other caliper(s) when you push one back in.Previously:
2010 FL2 TD4e GS
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW - still got this, non-runner on SORN.
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel
22nd May 2024 5:26 am
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8225
If you needed that amount of force to push it back how do you expect it to retract when you take your foot off the brake peddle? - the caliper pistons need removing and cleaning/polishing or replacing, replacement seals are available if needed without buying a new caliper.
There is no force applied to the piston to make it retract, pressure is just released from it and unless they can move relatively freely they will remained in contact with the disc and overheat.It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
22nd May 2024 6:08 am
Flapper
Member Since: 04 Feb 2015
Location: Gloucester
Posts: 352
I got fed up with that design of calliper, because they keep sticking, so i changed mine for 4 pot Brembo's
off a L320 (early range rover sport tdv8)
pro's
very easy to change the pads (2 pins out change pads 2 pins in)
easy to fit just 2 big bolts and 2 new copper washers, new back plate optional
bigger discs discovery 4 size 360mm
stopping is on another level like it really stops now.
con's
very hard to fine at a good price
If you want to go bonkers you can fit 6 pot Brembo's with 380 discs i think powerful uk and advanced factors do kits.
hope you find this useful.
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