The handbrake switches on as usual and holds the car but when pressing down for off there is nothing. No winding noise just silence and the handbrake remains on. Attempting to pull away at this point also fails to release the handbrake. Any thoughts please.
The handbrake is rarely used - only when needed but adjustment has not been done since 35,000 miles. (I know I know but I’ve never got around to it. Happy to take flak for this as I deserve it. I put my hand up)
3rd Aug 2022 6:26 pm
rrhool
Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4524
Have you got auto release set?Richard
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3rd Aug 2022 6:37 pm
Flatlander
Member Since: 20 Jul 2015
Location: Here
Posts: 575
Is the (P) flashing on the dash? have you tried pulling the emergency release cable?
The park brake will only release manually if you have your foot on the brake - are the brake lights working OK?
Thank you gents for your interest and very prompt replies. I have found the problem - operator error...
You need to have the engine running and your foot on the brake pedal before the handbrake will turn off.
Not the case for appling the handbrake
In my defence it is SWMBO’s car and a rarely drive it. I’m happy for all to have a chuckle at my expense and I will adjust the rear handbrake first thing Sunday morn. That’s a promise.
5th Aug 2022 5:27 pm
Kilovolt
Member Since: 29 Jun 2015
Location: South Derbyshire
Posts: 1071
In certain quarters of the Royal Navy they call that a PICNIC
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One strange thing though. When rotating the disc using my torque wrench (set at 65) the halfshaft nut started to unscrew... It’s a castle nut but nothing to retain it. It left the factory like this I assume because no work ever undertaken.
Manual says no special procedure just tighten to 350nm. I’m going to get Doris to apply the foot brake and retighten.
Any thoughts on why so loose and what should be securing it?
Click image to enlarge
7th Aug 2022 5:09 pm
Flatlander
Member Since: 20 Jul 2015
Location: Here
Posts: 575
It's not a castle nut, it's a taper nut, the 'castle' bits should bite into the thread as it's tightened. Very odd that it was so loose - is there any play in the wheel bearing?
ETA - looking at it again, I'm not sure that is the right nut, the fronts have a 'collar' that should be deformed (staked) into the groove in the driveshaft once torqued up, I'm sure the rears should be the same...
Back from work early today so a quick update.
I’ve compared this n/s nut to the o/s and they are identical. No play in either wheel and when I applied my torque wrench to the suspect n/s nut it took very little to reach 350nm so all good.
In conclusion I think the nut moved on the thread because this style of nut only needs 65nm to slacken from 350nm.
Thanks again all for your interest and help
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