Member Since: 03 Jul 2017
Location: Somewhere near Somewhere else in Somerset
Posts: 117
D4 SDV6 my14 sump removal
Hi there
After some advice from you in the know ..
Got a bit of a leak on my engine and from review could be engine sump gasket issue (amongst other possibilities!)
Any pointers for changing that before I get myself in another pickle?
Are there any specific things I’ll need to look out for (other than level sensor) and how much will I be looking at stripping off the engine to do it??
Many thanks in advanceIf things were meant to be easy, then I will soon complicate them....
Please note...
Anything I say is only from my personal experience and knowledge..
I don't assume to know everything, and know there is a lot I don't know..
But then I could be talking .. O
23rd Feb 2023 12:44 am
Oswiperus D3 Decade
Member Since: 02 Apr 2010
Location: Chelmsford, Essex
Posts: 1600
I believe (but don't quote me) that the diff has to be removed so quite a job in all just to remove sump.Stu
2016 D4 Landmark current
2022 Defender D300 SE Gone
D4 2014 XS Commercial - Gone
D4 2016 hse lux montalcino red - Gone
D3 2005 se java black - current
D3 2005 base manual - gone
D2 1999 TD5 E white - current
23rd Feb 2023 10:03 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20841
Member Since: 02 Nov 2016
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1047
LR Time have done a good video on disco 4 sump removal. A long job as DM says.Just 'cause you got the power... that don't mean you got the right.
23rd Feb 2023 1:49 pm
Steamyrotter
Member Since: 03 Jul 2017
Location: Somewhere near Somewhere else in Somerset
Posts: 117
Disco_Mikey wrote:
Yes, pretty big job
If the leak isn't that bad, I'd wait until it is
I would….
But the MOT centre just failed it on excessively leaking!!
I pointed out it’s a Landy but that was stretching it a bit!!!!If things were meant to be easy, then I will soon complicate them....
Please note...
Anything I say is only from my personal experience and knowledge..
I don't assume to know everything, and know there is a lot I don't know..
But then I could be talking .. O
23rd Feb 2023 6:48 pm
Steamyrotter
Member Since: 03 Jul 2017
Location: Somewhere near Somewhere else in Somerset
Posts: 117
What an absolutely **** pain!!
Driveshafts wouldn’t come out and therefore diff was stuck in !!
All I could do was split them at the inner knuckle so that’s another job on the list!
Managed to split the extension tube and turn it all to get it out ‘complete’(ish)!!
Mopped up several pints of oil (seems like it!) and surveyed the total carnage that is the bottom of a Disco!!!
This is definitely designed by someone who will never work on them!
Can now see the sump but that still worries me seeing all those bits attached to it.
Didn’t realise the starter motor and air con compressor are fixed to it too. D’oh!
So that’s next weekends job.
This week will be cleaning everything that’s come off so I can at least grip them when I put them back.
Read there is a small plastic pipe inside that usually gets broken..
Anyone know about that and a part number?
Thanks all.
Oh how I wish there was a trustworthy mobile Indy down here!! If things were meant to be easy, then I will soon complicate them....
Please note...
Anything I say is only from my personal experience and knowledge..
I don't assume to know everything, and know there is a lot I don't know..
But then I could be talking .. O
26th Feb 2023 6:54 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20841
AC compressor is bolted to the sump, along with gearbox pipes
Turbo drain pipes have to come off (perfect time to upgrade the RH drain if not already done)
Starter off
Bracket for the alternator is also bolted to it, as is battery cable etc
Member Since: 11 Sep 2016
Location: Marnoch
Posts: 4244
This year? So not busy as usual then! I want to see the sweets before I get into your windowless van... I'm not stupid!
Corris Grey D4 Commercial SE 2016
Zermatt Sliver 2007 D3 SE manual (gone)
Indus Silver D4 HSE 2015 (gone)
Bonatti Grey D3 HSE 2006 (gone)
White D3 S (LHD) 2007 (gone)
Firenze Red D4 HSE 2014 (gone)
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26th Feb 2023 9:48 pm
Steamyrotter
Member Since: 03 Jul 2017
Location: Somewhere near Somewhere else in Somerset
Posts: 117
Disco_Mikey wrote:
In May
I can provide some of Somersets finest scrumpy!!!!
If things were meant to be easy, then I will soon complicate them....
Please note...
Anything I say is only from my personal experience and knowledge..
I don't assume to know everything, and know there is a lot I don't know..
But then I could be talking .. O
26th Feb 2023 10:03 pm
Steamyrotter
Member Since: 03 Jul 2017
Location: Somewhere near Somewhere else in Somerset
Posts: 117
Disco_Mikey wrote:
AC compressor is bolted to the sump, along with gearbox pipes
Turbo drain pipes have to come off (perfect time to upgrade the RH drain if not already done)
Starter off
Bracket for the alternator is also bolted to it, as is battery cable etc
Sump gasket and plastic pipe p/no's are: LR005994 + LR013608
Thanks DM.
That helps significantly.
Didn’t notice the alternator bracket..
I have the gasket but not the pipe so will need to get ordering (again!!)If things were meant to be easy, then I will soon complicate them....
Please note...
Anything I say is only from my personal experience and knowledge..
I don't assume to know everything, and know there is a lot I don't know..
But then I could be talking .. O
26th Feb 2023 10:05 pm
Steamyrotter
Member Since: 03 Jul 2017
Location: Somewhere near Somewhere else in Somerset
Posts: 117
And the saga continues…
Finally got the sump off
Many thanks Disco Mikey.
Your guidance is appreciated
However there were a few things puzzling me through all this..
Front Diff Extension tube had sealant squished from the joint.
Some brackets not fitted correctly
Some small pipes not clipped back
All pointing to someone being there before??
This then confirmed by 1 sump bolt completely missing (May be the root cause of the leakage? Hopefully)
The little breather pipe inside the sump already broken and the long piece nowhere to be found.
The central bolt on the sump windage plate sheared with the threaded part still in the boss!
The turbo drain in the bottom of the sump missing a gasket..
So although progress now a few steps backwards as more parts needed..
Everything looks visibly OK on the bottom end. No play, no bits of metal or filings.
Sump cleaned and now outside not resembling the inside!!
Need to clean off all the other parts whilst waiting for the next batch of bits i need to order!!
On a plus side feeling up above the sump joint line there doesn’t appear to be any oil running down there so looking very positive to it just being the sump gasket leaking.
The small gaskets sealing the oil pump and the rear cover to the engine are a little proud of the surface but I don’t think excessive and from the removed sump gasket looks like it sealed OK?
Rear end looks OK, front looks a bit iffy but may be windage causing that?
Looking up the hole in the bottom of the oil pump housing where you can see the timing belt (Assuming everyone’s like that and not something else i need to fix!!) it all looks dry and no oil on the belt. So feeling confident (as far as you Canabe with these!) that the crank oil seals are OK.
A little question though.. (Wouldn’t be a post from me without one…)
Would it be prudent to change out all the sump bolts for new or just the one i need??
Onwards and downwards!!
CheersIf things were meant to be easy, then I will soon complicate them....
Please note...
Anything I say is only from my personal experience and knowledge..
I don't assume to know everything, and know there is a lot I don't know..
But then I could be talking .. O
4th Mar 2023 7:42 pm
Steamyrotter
Member Since: 03 Jul 2017
Location: Somewhere near Somewhere else in Somerset
Posts: 117
Well I give up!!!!
Got sump on and all bolts in.
Then realised I hadn’t tightened up the bolts on the windage tray.
So sump off again, clean, clean and clean again then tighten the bolts.
Result….
Back under the car and refit the sump.
Slightly harder second time around but because I hadn’t lined the sump to the pins properly.
Tweaked and nipped up bolts..
Tightened all bolts and the last one.. not even anywhere near tightened and snack…
Bolt falls out complete with what I can only assume is the threads from the oil pump casing still wrapped around it!!!!!
So sump has to come off again and the front end will need to be stripped to change the bleeding pump!!
Not entirely happy about that tbh!!
But at least that will be another job I won’t have to do later!!
Annoyed as I had the timing belt done last year, but at least it’s not a new pump that’s failed!
Bleedin Landys!!
Should have got something simpler to work on like a McLaren!If things were meant to be easy, then I will soon complicate them....
Please note...
Anything I say is only from my personal experience and knowledge..
I don't assume to know everything, and know there is a lot I don't know..
But then I could be talking .. O
11th Mar 2023 7:13 pm
Sylvester19
Member Since: 17 Jul 2020
Location: Central Scotland
Posts: 128
Helicoil would get you back you back on the road. Fitting a new pump then the sump, less chance of a leak.
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.. O
