Member Since: 01 Mar 2024
Location: Wisbech
Posts: 71
Engines just died
Are they interference engines? I believe cam belt has just gone at 70mph on the A34
Thankfully we were on the way back from holiday.
I need to get this fixed as I’ve put too much money in not to
Engine cranks, no horrible noises. Oil on dipstick still clean from when I changed it 650 miles ago before holiday.
27th Jul 2024 6:49 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10676
Yes interference
Take the oil cap off and look at the silver cam.
Get someone to crank the engine and see if the cam is turning.
27th Jul 2024 7:09 pm
loanrangie
Member Since: 18 Jun 2017
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 699
At 70 i wouldn't expect it to be salvageable but stranger things have happened, Once you remove the timing cover and valve covers you can determine whats damaged.
28th Jul 2024 3:15 am
Marshall8hp
Member Since: 05 Dec 2022
Location: Townsville
Posts: 34
Might be the HPFP belt of course.
28th Jul 2024 11:00 am
Disco-Jim
Member Since: 01 Mar 2024
Location: Wisbech
Posts: 71
So it’s snapped crank.
Cannot understand how a crank just lets go like that while driving steady
28th Jul 2024 4:19 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5042
It's little comfort I know but you're not the first and certainly won't be the last to suffer this unacceptable standard of engineering. The issue in short is down to a compromised design resulting in a missing 4th bearing.
If you're going to repair the car you're best bet now would be to find an engine from an "S" Type Jag, that's if you can find any that haven't already been LR donors. Don't be tempted by the recon merchants as the quality varies wildly and you could be back here again soon.
Fit a new oil pump, belts, w/pump, chains & tensioners, and this should be fine but I doubt it will be around for long!yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
Last edited by PROFSR G on 28th Jul 2024 6:25 pm. Edited 1 time in total
28th Jul 2024 6:17 pm
Disco-Jim
Member Since: 01 Mar 2024
Location: Wisbech
Posts: 71
What’s better with the jag s type 2.7?
28th Jul 2024 6:23 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5042
Same engine but less stressed life, see my edit above!yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
28th Jul 2024 6:25 pm
Disco-Jim
Member Since: 01 Mar 2024
Location: Wisbech
Posts: 71
I would have guessed that. Wondered if there was a physical difference.
I’ve been offered a running engine for £500 from a Land Rover breaker. I would do belts, seals, etc etc anyway before putting it in. Mines had a new alternator, injectors and other bits in the last few years so plenty of good bits to swap over.
As of tonight it looks like this:
Click image to enlarge
28th Jul 2024 6:29 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5042
Would you be taking it out through the front or body off?yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
28th Jul 2024 6:40 pm
Disco-Jim
Member Since: 01 Mar 2024
Location: Wisbech
Posts: 71
Out the front. Behind me where the picture is taken is my workshop. I have a pit but no lift sadly. So will push it over pit to do front prop, exhausts and everything else I can before I push it back out and jack it up to finish off outside.
28th Jul 2024 6:47 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5042
You need to fill out your profile so others can see exactly what year/spec your car is and this makes it easier for them to contribute. eg Is you car manual or auto?
Whichever engine supplier you choose you will get one chance at getting this right due to the prohibitive costs of doing it again. So be thorough and inspect everything down to the bearing shells before you put it in the car! Because you will have the engine out it affords you opportunities to address maintenance issues which can't be done properly with the engine in the car. And, are a doddle with the engine sitting in front of you. Specifically, the timing chains and tensioners, cam and vac pump seals, glow plugs, turbo, engine bearings etc, all of which are a b@stard to do with the engine in place!
So think about this and don't cut corners now that will come back to haunt you later.
There is plenty of help and sound advice on here from those of us that have done this job more than once, and some many times! yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
28th Jul 2024 7:13 pm
Disco-Jim
Member Since: 01 Mar 2024
Location: Wisbech
Posts: 71
I must fill the profile in yes!
I am of the opinion to get this engine in with new belts, oil pump, water pump.
Bits from my old engine being used will be:
Injectors,
Glow plugs possibly,
Alternator,
Air con compressor,
Turbos,
Loom,
Can’t think of other bits I thought of.
Btw mines a manual 2006 poverty spec
28th Jul 2024 7:16 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5042
Manual? Well there's something else to consider whilst it's all apart, the clutch!
Most of us who do this for a living have a fully equipped workshop at our disposal, so removing through the front would never be considered over "body off" For that reason I'm just wondering if it might be a bit tricky to get the engine off the g/box input shaft! If it were an auto there is no issue as the TC would stay with the g/box and you can just lift the engine away!
It's a good idea to use the relatively new bits from your own engine and it will give you confidence in your rebuild. However, I know I'm repeating myself here but remember what I said above regarding bearings and cam chains etc, etc.
It's just not worth risking leaving old stuff in place that is prone to failure with mileage that can be swapped out in a few hours with the engine out!yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
28th Jul 2024 7:46 pm
Disco-Jim
Member Since: 01 Mar 2024
Location: Wisbech
Posts: 71
My aim is to use it for 6 months ish with the replacement engine. Then to build a pukka engine from scratch to fit. At the moment I just need to get it back on the road.
I’m running on empty at the moment thanks to the lousy RAC service we had. Only had around 3 hours sleep so forgot the clutch etc. I need to swap vacuum pump too as current one is 3 months old
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