Member Since: 27 Nov 2007
Location: Northern Rivers, NSW, Australia
Posts: 2050
Hi CW,
Wow! Impressive detail.
I'm going to have to take my time, studying this.
Many Thanks,
PeterThe Bearded Dragon
13th Mar 2009 1:13 am
terry_girgis
Member Since: 19 Aug 2006
Location: Sydney
Posts: 11
It works ... followed the instructions and all is great !! THANKS MATE ... *I LOVE YOU !
* note: in a platonic and non sexual way .Regards
Terry G
24th Mar 2009 7:28 am
wvlenthe
Member Since: 07 Jan 2009
Location: Arnhem
Posts: 1967
erm... just so that I know what you're on about...
Is a brake controller meant to manually get the trailer to brake instead of using your right foot and have the trailer brake automatically?
TIA
WiljoD3 V8 HSE Auto in Zermatt silver - driveway version gone but not forgotten, only the living room cupboard version remains
24th Mar 2009 7:29 pm
the_beeboo
Member Since: 15 Jul 2006
Location: sydney
Posts: 18
hi
An electric trailer brake controller is a device that supplies power from the tow vehicle to the trailer's electric brakes. Many styles are available that differ from how they look, to the number of brakes they can power, but all of them can be divided up into two main groups, Proportional or Time Delayed. They all;
* Allow the user to adjust the maximum braking power to match the weight of the trailer being pulled
* Have a manual override trigger that can be used to apply only the trailer brakes
* Have the same wiring configuration for installation
1. Trailer Feed (usually blue): This is the wire that supplies brake power for the controller to the 6-way or 7-way trailer connector at the back of the vehicle. Some vehicles with factory tow packages already have this wire run from under the dash to the rear of the vehicle. Otherwise, the wire will need to be run along the underside of the vehicle and through the firewall to the desired Brake Control mounting location. To get through the firewall, sometimes a hole must be drilled. However, grommets or pre-existing holes are already available in most vehicles.
2. Ground (usually white): This wire is connected from the brake controller to any reliable ground location.
3. Brake Switch (usually red): This can be found near the top of the brake pedal. There are wires extending from the switch and using a circuit tester, the wire that has power when the brake pedal is pressed can be found. This wire is tapped into using a scotch lock.
4. Battery Power (usually black): This is the connection that supplies power to the brake controller. Some vehicles with factory tow packages already have this wire run from under the dash to the battery with some kind of circuit protection. Otherwise, a wire must be run through the firewall and connected directly to the battery with an in line circuit breaker.
[img]http://www.etrailer.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/faq/brake_control_wiring_diagram_500.jpg [/img]
Hope this helps explain it all Regards
TerryG
24th Mar 2009 11:24 pm
thesettler
Member Since: 10 Mar 2007
Location: Adelaide Hills
Posts: 30
Hi Catweasel,
I can't see the images you posted.
Would it be possible for you to repost.
I am trying to fit a Tekonsha P3 to my TDV6S.
Thanks very much
Cheers
Stefan----------------
TDV6 S White
19th Sep 2009 6:39 am
thesettler
Member Since: 10 Mar 2007
Location: Adelaide Hills
Posts: 30
Member Since: 24 Nov 2010
Location: Australia
Posts: 1
catweasel wrote:
I agree with Martin in that the installation is easy and the only integration with the D3 is with the wiring to the brake switch, the other wires are just a supply to the controller and a feed to the brake coils. whilst the wiring method from AULRO will operate the brakes it does not allow the brake lights to operate when manually overidden. whilst some people from previous threads seem ok with this I think it is wrong and could cause an accident on the highway and there is no need for them not to work. the following is what I have done and to date I have had no issues at all. I use the manual overide every time I hook up the camper to check its operation and also when changing surfaces to reset the required voltage and I also find it very useful on descents where it gives you more control and stops the trailer from shunting you down the slope.
here are LR's wiring diags from NA (for some reason we dont get the brake controller pre wired, another silly LR omission ) of the brake connector to which you can get a fly lead to the controller.
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the wiring that should be in your D3 and where I tapped into it
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no diodes in the LR cct just this splice which occurs in the lighting cct
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the connecter found on yank D3's
this is where I spliced into the brake cct.
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to keep things neat I removed the fuse connector using this tool but anything similar will do
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I cut the wire off flush and reinserted the connector piece back into the fuse block should I need it in the future (and its out of the way) you need to move a tab back to remove the Brown wire and then solder it to the blue wire to connect the controller to the trailer brake cct.
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the only issue I can see is with the Generic Module D162 but no issues so far. that is what I have done. use the info if you wish
NAS Brake Controller Wiring Diagrams in my Gallery
For what it is worth, I have posted a number of pictures and pdf's related to the North America spec trailer wiring and specifics related to the Tekonsha P3 controller. While the wiring diagrams are North America spec, they go from the battery to the rear trailer connector so they may help; also the instructions re the Tekonsha make reference to a fifth wire that is for the Euro spec installations.
Since the pictures and jpg's are in the gallery, they will display.
As such, if you wish to review them, just click on the Gallery link below this post and then when my Gallery appears, look for the file labeled "NAS Trailer Socket Pin ID and Wire Colours".
Scroll way down to the very bottom, (picture and text layout make it look like the middle is the end of the file), and there are three files specifically related to the Tekonsha P3. One file is a picture of the four conductor Ford adapter that just plugs into a five conductor Land Rover socket C2590 under the steering wheel of the LR3, (but I gather not on the Australia or UK spec units).2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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) of the brake connector to which you can get a fly lead to the controller.
