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MortenDK
Member Since: 10 Feb 2011
Location: Helsinge
Posts: 4
  
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Almost looks like the belt on my old Subaru DOHC boxer engine....Never saw that many tensioners and idlers in my life....and the longest belt I ever saw 
By the way; my subaru had Airsuspension too, - 4 compressors in 4 years  I guess no one can make an elecktrical compressor last. Rerouted the pipes on the Subaru to let most of the air back to tank until reaching max pressure, then out, when lowering. two days of work, saved 1 compressor. Smashed the suspension computer but that is another story....
// Morten. Enjoy your body, Use it every way you can... Don't be afraid of it, or what other people Think of it,
It's the greatest instrument you'll ever own...
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 15th Feb 2011 12:34 pm |
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GraemeS
Member Since: 17 Mar 2008
Location: NSW
Posts: 706
  
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SteveNorman wrote:Good write up, although it is important to go to the extra hassle of removing the starter & locking the crankshaft with the locking pin, as there is no way to acurately set the cam timing otherwise, a paint mark on the front pulley can be miles out, due to the diameter of where you are marking, compared to the flywheel. Both cam sprockets have to be loosened while the crank is fixed.
If this is not done, you may be lucky, but fuel economy & optimum running will be upset, because the valves will open too soon, or too late.
Regards
Steve
I'll go further and say that resetting the camshaft sprockets without locking the crankshaft with its pin is guaranteed to set the valve timing to the same retarded state that existed with the stretched belt just removed, assuming the crankshaft stays exactly where it was when the camshafts were locked. Following the same procedure with a subsequent belt change will further retard the valve timing. Being able to spot that the crankshaft hasn't moved a whole tooth proves nothing if the camshaft sprockets are re-timed.
I suggest that camshaft timing NOT be reset because the new belt will restore the timing to what it was with the original new belt, unless sprockets are replaced whereby a proper all-shafts-locked timing needs to be done. I advocate that with the camshafts locked, the tensioner released but with the old belt still in place and the crankshaft sprocket position marked in case of gross movement, the crankshaft be turned anti-clockwise slightly to provide a little slack in the belt on the side opposite to the tensioner. The new belt will then fit over the camshaft sprockets and the crankshaft sprocket. The crankshaft will then be pulled to its correct position by the tensioner. Home of LLAMS, for LRs and Jeep GCs
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| 18th Sep 2011 1:37 am |
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kmerson
Member Since: 05 Oct 2011
Location: Livingston
Posts: 5
 
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A guy I know is adamant that the TDV6 is a timing-chain not a timing-belt, yet in this topic its clearly seen as a belt.
Excellent argument closer. Mind will probably say that its really a chain.
On comment 105k miles is the first change or second? Most belts I have seen change arounf 60 to 70k mark.
By the way excellent step by step process you have prepared.
Ken
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| 5th Oct 2011 12:03 pm |
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discoteca
Member Since: 08 Mar 2010
Location: Warwickshire
Posts: 1477
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kmerson wrote:A guy I know is adamant that the TDV6 is a timing-chain not a timing-belt, yet in this topic its clearly seen as a belt.
Excellent argument closer. Mind will probably say that its really a chain.
Ken
Well you will only partially win the argument. Two of the camshafts (one on each bank) are driven by the timing belt from the crank. The other two are each driven by small chains from the rears of the belt driven camshafts.
I can never remember though which ones are driven by what. I don't think that it's inlet cams from the belt and exhaust cams from the chains more likely left bank inlet right bank exhaust from the belt and left bank exhaust right bank inlet from the chains (or vice versa). Someone will be along soon to tell me if i got that the right way round or not 
So i guess in a way you are both sort of right but ultimately its all driven by a belt but some of it also via chains
gonna stop now before I completely tie myself up in knots.
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| 5th Oct 2011 12:56 pm |
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kukie
Member Since: 14 Nov 2010
Location: geelong vic.
Posts: 8
 
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want to change timing belts where can I buy timing pins and viscous fan spanners? also locking pin for flywheel. thank you in advance ron.kukler@greendieselcorp.com 
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| 21st Nov 2011 2:31 am |
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davecars
Member Since: 04 Feb 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 166
 
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Hi People
Great thread, question as per last post, is there anywhere in the UK where you can buy the pins and flywheel lock, my LR3 will be 7 years old in November but would like to have the belts done before then.
Dave S.
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| 5th Feb 2012 8:52 pm |
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davecars
Member Since: 04 Feb 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 166
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Disco_Mikey wrote:Can be purchased from eBay, or a local motor factors can order them in for you 
Thanks Mike
There is a good motor factor in Perth I will try him.
Dave S
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| 6th Feb 2012 10:25 pm |
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anth 666
Member Since: 06 Apr 2012
Location: washington
Posts: 2
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| TD V6 2.7 CAM BELT CHANGE |
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Hi i am new to the forum but have used DISCO MIKEY'S instructions on cam belt changing on my RANGROVER SPORT TDV6 2.7 thanks MIKEY As a mechanic i have done many timing belts and while reading this link i see that some people have recommended removing the starter motor to lock up the flywheel, So as i had all the gear and pleanty of time i thought i would do it the propper way and this would answer the question once and for all ( remove the starter or not ). Once the starter was removed (nearly 2 hrs) i fitted the flywheel locking pin & then both camshaft locking pins lined up straight away, I was supprised so i removed all locking pins and turned the engine over a few times then fitted flywheel locking tool again and to my supprise i could get both camshaft locing pins in again, This would indicate that even after my car had coverd 107,000 miles that there was no sign or negligible amount of cam belt stretching, as has been suggested by others in previous posts.
I then removed the flywheel locking tool and marked up the crankshaft drive gaer with paint as suggested by MICKEY then changed the cam belt as per instructions, All timed up ok, removed cam locking pins turned engine over a few times, then fitted flywheel locking pin and both cam pins lined up again straight away.
Engine is sweet and fuel mpg performance etc all ok.
In short there is no need what so ever to remove the starter motor.
The old timing belt has negligible stretch ( so engine timing etc doese not go out or change as the belt wears).
A well positioned blob of paint on the crank drive gear is all that is required, After all for many years manufactures only ever provided a crank shaft mark on the pullies and front timing cover.
To remove the starter is a  of a job in its self and will take longer than the time required to change the rear belt.
If you have good diy or mechanical knowlege, Get the belts changed yourself and save the money it's not a bad job just time consuming.
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| 6th Apr 2012 5:57 pm |
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Flack
Member Since: 06 Sep 2006
Location: Preston Lancashire
Posts: 6312
 
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anth 666
welcome to the Forum bud...
I have done quite a few cam belts now and I never remove the starter I have always used the paint mark method on the crank drive gear even if you move it you can still line up ok with the mark..
Did you do both belts or just the front one...
Flack
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| 6th Apr 2012 9:31 pm |
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chrisbowler
Member Since: 30 Jan 2009
Location: UK WALES
Posts: 176
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Why is removing the starter such a problem -- have done 5 cars now both manual and auto Takes about 20 mins to get access to crank pins after removing starter. One day you will get it wrong just because you did the short cut method
Chris bowler Chris Bowler
D3 2005 EXPEDITION
D2 Challenge Vehicle
300 TDi Spare car
107" TD5 Comp Safari Motor
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| 6th Apr 2012 10:02 pm |
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Flack
Member Since: 06 Sep 2006
Location: Preston Lancashire
Posts: 6312
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chrisbowler
I have been changing cam belts for the last forty years, the very early cars did not have any timing marks or locking pins to make it easy for you, you had to line it all up the good old fashion manual way. confidence comes with experience and believe me the D3 belts are a doddle to some other cars.. I am sure other mechanics including ant 666 will agree that the paint mark method is just as safe as the crank pin if you know what your doing.
Flack
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| 7th Apr 2012 8:12 am |
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disco_steve
Member Since: 25 Aug 2009
Location: Are you sure this is the M5 ?
Posts: 1498
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I have carried out two timing belt changes, both on mileage rather than age, and only used the small blob of paint method with 100% succes.
If you are careful and acurate with the paint blob, (i.e. don't use a 1" brush) and also careful to not move the crankshaft whilst the belt is removed you won't have any issues
If anyone wants to spend an additional 2 hrs removing the starter motor - all I can say is enjoy  Never get mad - get even !!
06 D3 now gone to family member and still going strong at 265k
previous vehicles:
04 D2 TD5 - (clocked 189k from new)
52 X-Trail 2.2 SVE
various euro boxes !
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| 7th Apr 2012 11:32 am |
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anth 666
Member Since: 06 Apr 2012
Location: washington
Posts: 2
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Hi Flack,
Yes i did both belts & found the front belt one of the easiest ever done while the back belt was not nice it still was not a bad job, The only reason i took the starter off was to prove a point to others that it is not required to do so, it will add time to the job especially if you are doing it at home on your back!!! and also that if you have done timing belts before all you need is a blob of paint on the crankshaft .
If people think back a few years a crank shaft pullie mark is all you ever got from the manufacture and if the crank moved you turned it back past the crank mark oppisit to DOR then back to the mark in DOR =crank set.
I also removed the starter to see how much the old belt had stretched or the timing had moved as others had suggested in previous posts that over time it would stretch and the timing would move and if you did not lock the flywheel then you would be setting the timing wrong, The result was no belt stretch at all after 107,000 !!
When manufactures first started using timing belts , cam belt changes were about 50,000-80,000 and they had very little stretch then, but they allways snapped if not changed at the recomended time. The modern timing belts have come a long way and are far superior, both my belts were in good condition and no signs of stretch or ware.
DOR = Direction of rotation i.e Clock wise
By all means if you are not 100% confident in what you are doing then remove the starter & lock the flywheel if you want.
ANTH
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| 7th Apr 2012 11:41 am |
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dsj1979
Member Since: 05 Aug 2011
Location: uk
Posts: 195
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Great! 
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| 13th Apr 2012 9:39 pm |
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