Member Since: 21 Jun 2010
Location: Perth
Posts: 87
I have read this instruction several times and I can't determine if the outer joint can be separated from the shaft or is cleaned in place once the boot is removed?
A, remove whole shaft using a lever bar and a bit of brute force from the diff.
Thanks, what I meant is once you have the full assembly out of the diff and on the bench the instructions show the inner joint coming apart (once boot removed) but does not refer to the outer joint being able to be separated from the shaft for cleaning?
Thanks
20th Feb 2017 2:18 am
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
No need to strip the inner one at all, remove whole shaft and once the gaiter is off the joint pops apart then you remove the circlip and the spider bit slides off the shaft making it a doddle to get both boots on before rebuilding it.
I wasnt looking forward to doing it but refuse to pay anybody for something if I can do it myself and it wasnt anywheres near as bad as what I was expecting it to be, weirdly satisfying as well!
The wheel end joint is a proper cv joint like any normal car and the inner one is a sliding affair that Ive not come across before, but i dont work on anything as small as cars if I can avoid it.
20th Feb 2017 6:51 am
Andy Foster
Member Since: 27 Dec 2009
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 6551
If just replacing the outer boot is it necessary to take the shaft out or can it be done in place.
Cheers
AndyD4 MY15 SE TECH
D3 gone but never forgotten.
1st Apr 2017 9:42 pm
redjelly5000
Member Since: 18 Jul 2008
Location: Rugby
Posts: 473
Just had a GKN kit delivered to do both inner and outer boots (one rubber, one plastic?) but there’s no identification of which grease is the lithium for the inner and which is the graphite for the outer joint... can anyone advise please?D3 TDV6 HSE 2008 Buckingham Blue (current)
D3 TDV6 HSE 2009 Zermatt Silver (previous)
D3 TDV6 HSE 2005 Maya Gold (previous)
D2 TD5 ES 1999 (previous)
Defender TD5 swb hard top 2005 (previous)
Defender 300tdi swb hard top 1994 (previous)
5th Sep 2018 3:38 pm
pigeon_voyageur
Member Since: 30 Dec 2018
Location: Le Cheylas
Posts: 102
Thanks for the writeup, Disco Steve. Very clear and very helpfull !
I did this job this afternoon. I was not very motivated, but it was a rather nice and easy job to do on a Saturday afternoon. D3 TDV6 for holidays use,
D3 TDV6 7 seater (for sale)
RR L322 3.6 TDV8 : to be fixed (torque converter to change)
Series 3 pickup : to be fixed (chassis corroded)
25th Apr 2020 6:46 pm
pigeon_voyageur
Member Since: 30 Dec 2018
Location: Le Cheylas
Posts: 102
[quote="redjelly5000"]
Just had a GKN kit delivered to do both inner and outer boots (one rubber, one plastic?) but there’s no identification of which grease is the lithium for the inner and which is the graphite for the outer joint... can anyone advise please?[/quote]
Easy : the thick black one goes on the inner side (1 bag).
The orange one (3 bags) goes on the wheel side. D3 TDV6 for holidays use,
D3 TDV6 7 seater (for sale)
RR L322 3.6 TDV8 : to be fixed (torque converter to change)
Series 3 pickup : to be fixed (chassis corroded)
25th Apr 2020 6:48 pm
Dal-z
Member Since: 17 Oct 2019
Location: Rogaland
Posts: 3
Thanks for a comprehensive how to guide. It helped me a lot today when I dismantled my own front left driveshaft today. Greetings from Norway.
12th Jul 2020 10:10 pm
slinksted
Member Since: 26 Jan 2022
Location: Retford
Posts: 10
lynalldiscovery wrote:
Great write up did mine today took just under 1.75 hours incl all tools away, as DiscoGaz not a drop of diff oil came out on mine when shaft pulled so that certainly saves time.
The large cv gaiter clip diff end is certainly entertaining and took me a good few minutes to work out how it worked.
So how does it work? I have done the job and changed the suspension strut tonight (lots of room if you take the strut out first and put it back last!), but I cannot work out how to tighten that GKN clamp? I can get it to the first click, but not the second, any ideas - the inner shaft (front rhs) is still in place, so am trying to tighten the clamp in situ, but it didn’t have the usual pincer tightened clamp…
Any clues before I buy another clip?
7th Mar 2022 12:42 am
spursy
Member Since: 21 Jul 2022
Location: west yorkshire
Posts: 17
big thanks to disco-steve
Hello Just posting to say a big thanks to the author of the original post disco-steve I only had to change my inner boot with an advisory on my mot so I got a kit which came with both boots so I did the outer one as well I cut the inner boot off in situ then I pulled the shaft out leaving the end part still attached to the diff I got the other end out without taking the brakes off I have Brembo brakes on my LR3 which were on when I bought it it was a little heavy but once I had it propped up I managed to wiggle the shaft out of the wheel hub I took the shaft into my shed into my vice I gently drifted the roller bearing unit off the end of the shaft after removing the circlip after removing the outer boot I fitted both boots leaving the inner to fasten up the big end which I filled with grease once I had pushed the roller bearing back into the end attached to the diff attached the arms back tightened the hub nut and bent the tab over wheel back on all done very steadily with my lunch & dogs walked in between so a enjoyable day and I only tackled it because the local mechanic couldn`t fit me in for 2 weeks saved my self a fair bit of money thanks again to disco-steve
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D3 TDV6 for holidays use,
D3 TDV6 7 seater (for sale)
did mine today took just under 1.75 hours incl all tools away, as DiscoGaz not a drop of diff oil came out on mine when shaft pulled so that certainly saves time.
