Member Since: 28 Nov 2018
Location: Carlisle
Posts: 39
Discovery 4 sat nav in the discovery 3
Discovery 4 sat nav screen in a discovery 3.
Fully working 4x4 info including compass
I've read and seen a few posts on this and decided to do this to mine purely because the maps are slightly more up to date and I liked the new graphic styling, the old system still did me proud and of course modern navigation systems are no doubt different again, no disrespect to any other members, posts or guides please, I'm just adding my level of detail that I thought will help clear up any areas of doubt for anyone wanting to do this too. I'd noticed some of the wire colours weren't described right and some stages of the conversion weren't totally clear. I've checked both the d3 and d4 official wiring diagrams which also gave me the terminal information and part numbers too . This install is for vehicles with hi line audio and d3 sat nav already, not the lowline type as found on base level spec vehicles.
You need to source a screen for the early discovery 4, late 2009 2010 2011, a good rule of thumb is look for a date on the back of the unit, common sense should ring alarm bells if it is marked **/**/13. These units are over £2000 new from land rover, trust me I checked, there's loads of revisions and changes to the part number so I struggled to get an exact one that I could share, so I suggest a good used unit from a breaker.
I got mine on eBay from a vehicle dismantler which had loads on the shelf, expect to pay around £150 for one. I identified mine by the number on the back which was AH22-10E887-BE, I've also seen this number ending BD, please note this is not an official part number you can walk into a dealership and use. These early D4 units have an internal hard drive with maps etc, no separate drive or dvd required. Later cars use a slightly different set up and the screen is only a screen so be careful when buying your parts.
You also need a fakra extension lead, CT27AA118, 3 meter male to female, I bought this on eBay.
You will need genuine parts grey plug YPC902700 this is a disco 4 type.
A donor disco 3 grey plug short piece of wire with a terminal on it for the abs wire to plug in to the new grey d4 plug or buy the ridiculously priced terminals from the main dealer at £30 per 10 minimum part number is 41841145
I was lucky enough to have a broken d3 screen (which provided a base) and a d3 dash top to play with when setting everything up before doing the actual install but the job is fairly simple to do.
Remove your centre fascia trim panel with its heater vents, it's pulls off towards you. Then remove your existing sat nav screen, there's 4 Phillips screws holding it in place, keep these safe as you'll need them to fit the disco 4 screen later, you'll need to gently lever the bottom edge mount plate upwards and pull towards you, carefully remove the connection plugs on the back. Remove the d3 screen from the vehicle.
I removed the 4 screws from the d3 screen frame, 2 down each side and kept the frame for use on the d4 screen later, discard the 4 screws they have no use on the d4 unit as there's no holes for them.
Here's the clever bit, use a new genuine parts terminal plug, part number is ypc902700 mine was £2.24 plus vat. Remove the red pin retention cover from the old d3 grey plug and pop out the pin terminals stated below then install these pins from the old d3 plug into the new d4 plug, both types of plug use the same type terminal, this ensures a true factory type connection without messing around grafting in splices etc. The old plug and remaining unused harness can be tucked out of the way as it wont be needed.
Pins needed are.......
Pin 3 on d3 plug connect to pin 11 on d4 plug. Black wire Earth supply.
Pin 11 on d3 plug connect to pin 14 on d4 plug, Blue wire from fuse 56 infotainment time out relay.
Pin 1 on d3 plug connect to pin 8 on d4 plug, Purple Blue wire from fuse 53 power.
Pin 21 of main sat nav drive plug green wire, join to a length of cable along through centre tunnel console up alongside the heater control panel and radio to the new d4 plug pin 2. This is the ABS speed signal wire.
Disconnect the old blue fakra cable from the old dvd drive under the passenger seat, now connect the new extension fakra cable to the old cable, I taped mine to the abs speed signal wire that's just been added to keep them together, they now need routed together to the rear of the new d4 screen, ensure all wires are ran safely and won't snag or rub on anything. You need to obtain a short length of wire with a matching terminal pin to join the green wire entering the new d4 plug. Don't bother with a genuine part terminal, they are £30 for ten terminals minimum order, there's loads of breakers out there so finding a donor should be easy, however the terminals are part number 41841145. If you are desperate, they come with a short length of cable ready crimped on.
The fibre optic most plug runs at a different angle to connect the new unit but will fit, don't force it at any silly angles though. Trim the plastic on the back of the dash behind where the plugs enter the new d4 screen with care to allow the plugs some breathing space. More on this towards the end of my write up.
The base mounting plate of the d3 screen will need removed from its screen but first remove the black plastic frame finisher on both the new and old screens then run a straight edge down each side of the screens metal frame and where it meets the base plate scribe a mark.
Scribe mark for lining up the d4 screen later on.
Now remove the base plate via its 4 screws making sure you're marks are on the removed plate, discard the d3 screws.
Now remove the d4 screen base plate, retain the 5 screws. There's 2 location tabs that need cut off the d4 screens body base to allow it to sit flat.
The 2 upper d4 screen lugs need removed, remove 1 screw and carefully lightly drill away the shouldered rivet mounts, do not allow swarf to enter the unit when drilling and do not drill too deep, now prise the lugs away and discard.
The d3 base mount plate needs the rear upturned folded sections cut off with a thin grinder disc, this will prevent clearance issues for the terminal plugs later.
Notice the rear tabs that need cut off to clear the new terminal plugs
Now remember the scribed marks from the screen straight edge marking up you did earlier. Take the d4 screen and centralise it left and right on the d3 plate but using the straight edge on the d4 screen line it up with the scribe marks you made earlier, don't forget the plastic frame finisher must be removed before doing this. Now the tricky bit flip it over and work out where the back most 3 holes need to be drilled to match the existing screw holes in the d4 screens underside it's fairly critical to get these right so the screen sits in the right place.
Holes marked out on the d3 base plate, lay the d4 base plate over to mark accurate positions, notice the outer 2 holes are further apart for the d4 mounting, the d3 holes won't be used.
The rear 3 holes should be level with the d3 ones but will be further apart. Just make sure your scribed marks for the screen angle line up when you screw the d3 base to the d4 unit, the front 2 screw mounts will rely purely on half the head of each screw overlapping the bracket but it's enough to hold it secure.
Notice the d3 surround frame and the phone menu, fully functional on my car as it has the phone option fitted, you can dial numbers etc using the touchscreen.
This is where I differ from some installations I've seen. I reuse the disco 3 screen frame surround, yes the original 2 menu buttons will be connected to nothing but the frame is the right width for the interior dash trim, the d4 frame is a 4mm wider
moulding and means a lot of careful trimming including the dash vent fascia either side of the screen, some I've seen had mistakes or visable poor finish which lets the appearance down, my car has the rarer ebony and silver HSE dash trim panel which is over £600 new so I wasn't risking ruining it. Using the d3 screen frame is a perfect fit but needs a few light dabs of sealant or dum dum butile black mastic tape, (its a bit like very tacky blue tack stuff on a roll but allows the frame to be removed if required) to hold it on the d4 screens body as there's no screw holes, this will prevent movement and rattles.
At the end of the day it's still mounted into a d3 dash and despite having 2 unused buttons this almost conceals the fact anything is different until that screen powers up.
Notice the new d4 grey plug on left, d3 old grey plug on right, you can almost see the rear of dash trimming in the background
Now you need to cut out some plastic to allow the larger mass of the d4 screen and it's rear body to fit in, keep all cables clear when cutting, barecin mind the heater ducting runs immediately behind this area so don't cut too deep, offer up the screen and you'll get an idea of what to cut, I ran a hacksaw blade manually down either side then cut through left to right with a cutting disc, watch out for those cables, I removed my head unit so as not to allow any swarf to drop into it.
If all is well you should be able to connect up the screen and fix it in place with the 4 screws you removed earlier. All you connect is the new d4 grey plug, the most fibre optic orange harness and the fakra cable to the blue terminal, everything else just needs tucked safely out of the way. I removed my sat nav drive from under the seat purely as it's no longer needed.
My screen was from a range rover sport and upon its first power up displayed range rover on the screen but after communication with the d3 head unit it switched to the land rover logo and only does this now..... Phew.
I haven't delved into the reversing camera bit but hope this info clears up some detail of what's needed to be done
There's a second fakra connection in white on the back of the d4 screen which might be utilised for the rear camera.
Last edited by Galvernisednuts on 27th Jul 2019 12:29 pm. Edited 21 times in total
26th Jul 2019 7:42 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10683
The second fakra connection is for traffic information. It needs connecting to the radio Antenna with a fakra splitter, to get that functionality.
Thanks for the write up.
That gives me some understanding of what is required.
I was going to ask if my reverse cam will work
Last edited by Pete K on 24th May 2020 10:38 am. Edited 1 time in total
26th Jul 2019 8:26 pm
Galvernisednuts
Member Since: 28 Nov 2018
Location: Carlisle
Posts: 39
Hello I've read a few threads that say you can use or modify the rear camera option. It's on my list of to do stuff with mine but as yet not ventured.
26th Jul 2019 8:53 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10683
going into the last grey square plug and using the center pins. It's not cheap!
pin 2 is the signal and pin 5 ground/screen
Do you happen to have the part number of the empty grey connector ?
Last edited by Pete K on 19th Jan 2020 10:33 am. Edited 1 time in total
31st Dec 2019 4:37 pm
Beaver12
Member Since: 24 Apr 2017
Location: Fermanagh
Posts: 39
D4 Nav Head into D3
Hi,
Thanks for your very informative SBS please keep me informed as to the function of the rearvue camera and the off road display
Thanks
Roger
31st Dec 2019 9:10 pm
geoffsnook
Member Since: 13 Jun 2014
Location: south wales
Posts: 3170
That makes the connections so much easier Discovery 3 se gone
Range rover sport supercharged here:)
1st Jan 2020 2:24 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10683
from reading the 30+ pages in the other thread, it appears you need to :
1. update the GAP IID tool firmware, so it has at least V3 B2439 (and then continue and update your phone)
2. put the car on charge, goto the CCF settings,(infotainment) and select rear camera. Change the setting to MY10 rear camera fitted and program. (you need to do this even if previously you had set a rear camera as fitted for the RR Mod)
Edit 2nd Feb: did step 2 and camera working.
19th Jan 2020 12:41 pm
Jong0211
Member Since: 07 Feb 2021
Location: Warwickshire
Posts: 99
Done, tested and all working. Had to remove the screen surround as too tight so thinking I may have to cut more off the back.
One thing though, does anyone know how to connect to the hands free? I maybe being a bit dumb but can’t find an option to search for devices. (Unless i need to change something else I’ve missed?)
Scanned on phone but nothing jumps out
26th Feb 2021 5:37 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10683
If you had BLuetooth before, you should have it now as I understand it.
The screen itself doesn’t do Bluetooth.
26th Feb 2021 5:41 pm
Jong0211
Member Since: 07 Feb 2021
Location: Warwickshire
Posts: 99
It had hand free so I assume so but only had it a week and been doing bits ever since. Found ‘Handsfree’ while searching on phone so guessing I’ll have to guess the password as the dealer has no idea. 🤦♂️ Oh the fun.
On another note though, very happy with the screen/display.
Is the iid tool the only one that with edit the file for reverse camera? Have a cheap Autel MaxiAP AP200 but holding off on the cost on iid
26th Feb 2021 5:54 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10683
There are 2 pin codes that can be found on this site. One is 2121
Yes the gap iid is the only device which will enable a camera on D4 display in a D3
Let’s try not to litter this thread with general phone issues if we can help it
26th Feb 2021 6:26 pm
Jong0211
Member Since: 07 Feb 2021
Location: Warwickshire
Posts: 99
Thanks and soery
26th Feb 2021 6:30 pm
Chris1969
Member Since: 21 Jun 2011
Location: North Worcestershire (not far from Redditch)
Posts: 385
As my sat navigation DVD has recently died (not that I used it a great deal anyway), this looks like a great upgrade.
Is it as 'simple' as it appears and is it worth the upgrade? Is the D4 unit a step up from the D3 one?
Just wondering as I can get a dvd unit for about £100 and just plug it in, or do I spent a bit more and take more time and swap for the early D4 one....??.. still learning )
Isofix car seat, Isofix baby seat base, crushed carpet crisps, sticky leather seats (next to Isofix car seat), upgraded front rubber cup holder things, wired up USB charge and audio for my iphone, side steps, de-tango'd lights, H7 OSRAM Nighbreakers, LED side lights, LED reverse lights, clear repeaters, Narpy Grill... tools I don't know how to use.... yet..
28th Feb 2021 10:54 am
Moo D3 Decade
Member Since: 13 Aug 2010
Location: UK
Posts: 14409
Just Google maps on a smart phone. Its so much better.D4 HSE EU6 (Known as Jeeves)
New Defender L663 110 SE (known as Noddy!) Sold
Sold Volvo XC90 R-Design (known as Basil)
Sold - D4 HSE (Known as Gerty)
No longer the Old Buses original owner
231,000 miles and counting
05 S manual owned from March 2005
D4 Face lifted
Still original injectors and turbo
V8 Front brakes
BAS Remap, Allisport Intercooler and deCat
EGRs blanked
T-Max split charge
Hanibal Expeedition rack
Prospeed ladder
Duratrac tyres
IID BT
BAS FBH control
28th Feb 2021 10:56 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10683
It's not worth repairing the old one.
Yeah spend the money on a D4 unit. It is an imporvement. (you can't update the Maps, but then I guess the D3 maps are dated too.)
The display will be bright at night, so you will need to press the off button
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