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Bushwanderer
Member Since: 27 Nov 2007
Location: Northern Rivers, NSW, Australia
Posts: 2050
  
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PaulP wrote:SNIP
The actual new air pipe from the RAI to the elbow is made of what looks like a paper filter and the elbow is full of drainage holes on the bottom edge.
SNIP
Hi Paul,
Could you please list the Part Nos for the two elbows, identifying which is which?
TIA,
Peter The Bearded Dragon
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 25th Mar 2011 11:27 pm |
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PaulP
Member Since: 04 May 2007
Location: Barcelona
Posts: 4317
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Hi Peter,
I can only list the part numbers based upon what is in the photo. It wasn't my D4 and I didn't actually order the parts (so can't verify the part numbers).
I just happened to be in the workshop when they were fitting it and they called me over to look at it because it made no sense at all to them. I couldn't understand it either 
Old elbow: AH22-9A676-BA (originally fitted to the D4 at the factory)
New elbow: AH32-9A676-AA (replacement elbow as delivered with the D4 RAI)
 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Auto Buckingham Blue
2007 Golf GT DSG
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| 25th Mar 2011 11:32 pm |
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caverD3
Member Since: 02 Jul 2006
Location: Oberon, NSW
Posts: 6922
 
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Do a search but here was a post on here which showed the original elbow is better than the replacement RAI one for sealing. “There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely gamesâ€
Ernest Hemmingway
D4 3.0 Active Diff, Adaptive Lights, High Beam Assist, Surround Cameras, Privacy Glass.
D3 2.7:Adaptive Headlights,Electronic Rear Diff,ARB Bar,Blaupunkt Speakers,JVC Powered Subwoofer,Removable Snorkel,Mitch Hitch,Pioneer After Market Head Unit,Steering Wheel Control Adaptor,Remote Adjustable Supension Rod System, Taxside Dual Battery System.
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| 26th Mar 2011 12:02 am |
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raadar
Member Since: 14 Dec 2010
Location: sunshinecoastQ
Posts: 28
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all,
the D4 RAI can be made removeable (the car looks much better without it for everyday driving) and at the same time improvement of the waterproofing can be achieved. My solution:
1 disassemble the RAI and thoroughly clean the various parts
2 cut a 50mm long section of 90mm aus spec pvc rainwater pipe incorporating about 10mm of the pinch down spigot section. Drive this pipe, spigot end first, from the intake side thru the oval aperture of the RAI leaving about 10mm of engagement. This is an interference fit and will take a bit of persuation to drive it thru. The pvc pipe will take on a similar oval shape but very slightly more rounded which aids sealing into the rubber seal of the air intake elbow.
3 Now reassemble the RAI after first running a generous and continuous bead of marine grade sikaflex to the mating surfaces. After this sets (give it say 24 hrs) run a secondary sikaflex bead around the reassembled join taking care to leave allocated space for the rubber seal that will sit against the bodywork of the front fender. Re-fix the rubber seal after the sikaflex has set.
4 After establishing that you have the rubber elbow fitted without the holes as previously posted (as well as the waterproof connector pipe into the airbox) pull the rubber elbow partially out of its seat for easier access. With some tie wire wrapped fully around the lip of the rubber elbow twist-join the wire and progressively tighten it until the aperture of rhe rubber elbow is a tight fit around the new spigot in the end of the RAI. You will need to experiment here with fitting and removing and tightening until the fit is tight but still allows the spigot to be inserted, with full engagement, into the rubber elbow. The slight rounding of the spigot from its natural memory will help here as the straight sides of the oval shaped aperture become better sealed.
Now you can install and remove the RAI at will (I use two sprocket cover screws off an old Yamaha dirt bike which are coated very similar in colour to Stornaway grey to fill the necessary scew mounting holes in the front fender, although the plastic inserts look better (if you can avoid scratching the paint when you remove them)).
This assembly would not be as waterproof as fully sealing the RAI to the fender and to the internal ductwork, however, it will certainly deflect all water in a creek crossing allthough I would not trust it for too long if stalled in a watercrossing when the tide is above the air intake, which might be a possibility on an extreme occasion. However, the removeability option, for me, is worth this slight risk....which can be managed by controled driving technique.
hope this helps.......................frank my10D4se3Ltdv6 current
my08RRStdv8 sold
my07RRStdv8 sold
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| 29th Mar 2011 11:56 pm |
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raadar
Member Since: 14 Dec 2010
Location: sunshinecoastQ
Posts: 28
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forgot to mention step 5, which is to shorten the two stainless tabs at the bottom of the RAI to allow the spigot to be inserted into the rubber elbow seal, and with the now reduced ability to lift the RAI, to still have them long enough to slot over the fender panel to support the RAI at this end. my10D4se3Ltdv6 current
my08RRStdv8 sold
my07RRStdv8 sold
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| 30th Mar 2011 12:06 am |
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