Member Since: 16 Jan 2006
Location: East Yorkshire
Posts: 96
Will do
14th Feb 2012 8:21 pm
drivesafe
Member Since: 23 Feb 2006
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Posts: 867
Hi Ian and when you get you wheels back, if you decide to charge the battery again, can I make a suggestion.
If your battery charger has a setting for Calcium/Calcium ( Ca/Ca ) batteries or if it has a “Boost†or Equalisation “ cycle, run your charger on this cycle and once the battery is charged, remove or turn the charger off, to allow the charge to rest, then repeat this cycle as many times as is convenient.
A single boost cycle is just not enough the fully charge a Ca/Ca cranking battery.
I have been carrying out some R&D on ways to charge specific type batteries for an unrelated new project and both from the tests I have been doing and from feedback from customers with my dual battery systems fit, I have found that a single “Boost†charge cycle only marginally raises the settled voltage of Ca/Ca batteries.
By doing a number of boost charge cycles, these Ca/Ca seem to end up holding a much higher settled voltage and work better at starting the motor.
Just a suggestion but see if this might help your FBH problem as well.2008 TDV8 RR Lux + 2009 D4 2.7
Last edited by drivesafe on 15th Feb 2012 12:31 am. Edited 1 time in total
14th Feb 2012 8:48 pm
wiggs
Member Since: 03 Sep 2006
Location: Manchester
Posts: 14372
Went to see my battery man the other day . He done various tests to the battery ... Result ..a battery with very low electro levels but a good cranking capacity .
I stuck it on charge for 36 hours over the weekend . Monday morning FBH ran for full 30 mins . Did 250 miles . Tuesday morning ran for full 30 mins aswell . Admitidly it's not been as cold ... But it's a start
Alternator showing a good charge .. So still a bit of a mystery . Will keep my eye on itG4 Gone ...but not forgotten
15th Feb 2012 12:03 am
SJ
Member Since: 24 Mar 2009
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 234
Sorry it took so long for me to back to this topic; I’m back at work in Algeria.
I eventually got my car in to the dealers and it apparently has a BMS fault, for which they are going to replace something when the part becomes available!
Anyway I went up to Scotland for a week during the very cold weather and every time I operated the FBH using the remote it worked fine for the full 30mins. (Previously it would only run for 5 minutes or so.) I didn't try the timer. However if I got into the car without activating the FBH using the remote, it wouldn't burn properly, just clouds of white diesel smoke. Even when driving it would look as though the car was on fire... and smell like it!
But if I stopped and used the remote it would fire no problem.. Any ideas
22nd Feb 2012 6:20 pm
Ian825
Member Since: 16 Jan 2006
Location: East Yorkshire
Posts: 96
Sounds similar to mine as posted below, sometimes the remote would work, sometimes not.
If not started by remote it then sometimes started due to the ambient temp with the engine (other times it would not) then on occasions I had the heavy unburnt diesel vapours surrounding the front end
Dealers had it in since last Tuesday - their diagnosis is I need a new alternator & they are on back order until 24th Feb - I've got a Disco 4 hire car from LR assist so intend to sit & wait until they tell me its sorted.
One other symptom I got was the interior fan was making a slight clicking noise as if catching, not sure if its related but all started together.
Let me know how you get on
Ian
22nd Feb 2012 7:49 pm
stick
Member Since: 13 Jan 2010
Location: hants
Posts: 604
Bit off topic but...I go to Switzerland a lot in the winter at altitude, -22 to -16 every morning for week before last. I agree that the idea of having the car all warm before I go out sounds really sexy, but frankly my biggest worry every morning was to ensure that the car would start. So is the remote FBH actually the wrong solution to the problem? As I see it, one wants a warm car, but can't risk leaving a car running on the drive and getting nicked. If one could work out a way to lock the car securely while it is running, wouldn't that be more what everyone needs?d4 HSE
22nd Feb 2012 8:17 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 73086
stick wrote:
If one could work out a way to lock the car securely while it is running, wouldn't that be more what everyone needs?
Like the HA D3s have.
22nd Feb 2012 8:23 pm
DiscoDunc
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
easy , start the car, then take the keys and lock the car. the car will continue to run but will be locked. works with keyless entry on HSE
the timed climate warms the car anyway so no need to run the engine. if the car isnt used every day then the battery looses some charge and the timed climate wont run. i find it only works if i give the car a good run every dayDuncan
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22nd Feb 2012 8:29 pm
SHARKYSHARKS
Member Since: 20 Dec 2008
Location: Saddleworth Oldham
Posts: 1954
I've just found out that if you have the Ctek charging on the snowflake setting the webasto will not work with the tow electrics plugged in
I can only assume the car must sense the charging voltage (14.7V) is to high
Back to Normal setting for me can't be coming ouside to a frozen car again MY18 D5 HSE LUX😎
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15th Jan 2013 7:44 am
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
DiscoDunc wrote:
easy , start the car, then take the keys and lock the car. the car will continue to run but will be locked. works with keyless entry on HSE
Due to our nanny state I think this could be an offence. It would certainly earn you a hefty fine in some countries (esp Germany) and I had understood that the devises fitted to HA and emergency service vehicles to enable keyless running was under a specific exemption for these vehicles. Well, this was the case when I looked at fitting the HA device to my D3 a number of years ago.
If the FBH is shutting down due to 14.7v on a D4 is a bit of a pain as the higher voltage is recommended for AGM batteries. The 10 amp Ctek has a temperature monitoring function that automatically tunes the voltage to the ambient conditions rather than fixing at 14.7v. This may be a better match for the D4 and UK conditions but I am sure the 'normal' mode is better than not having a charger attached at all.Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 19 Jan 2011
Location: Co. Durham
Posts: 12319
There was something on the news this morning about leaving cars running unattended but it was mainly to do with the insurance not paying out if the car got nicked. I believe that it is an offence to leave a unattended car running on a public road but you should be OK on a private road or private property
You MUST NOT leave a parked vehicle unattended with the engine running or leave a vehicle engine running unnecessarily while that vehicle is stationary on a public road. Generally, if the vehicle is stationary and is likely to remain so for more than a couple of minutes, you should apply the parking brake and switch off the engine to reduce emissions and noise pollution. However it is permissible to leave the engine running if the vehicle is stationary in traffic or for diagnosing faults.
Law CUR regs 98 & 107Cheers Ian
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15th Jan 2013 9:43 am
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Yes that would be my interpretation too; ok on private property but not on the road.
The law as it was explained to me:
Quote:
Regulation 107(2)(a). This states that no person shall cause or permit to be on any road any motor vehicle which is not attended by a person duly licensed to drive it unless the engine is stopped and the parking brake is effectively set. Exemptions to the requirements of this Regulation as to the stopping of the engine include a fire brigade vehicle, the engine of which is being used for any fire brigade purpose.
Quote:
EXPLANATORY NOTE (This note is not part of the Regulations)
These Regulations further amend the Road Vehicles (Construction and Use) Regulations 1986.
Regulation 98 provides that, except in specified circumstances, the driver of a vehicle must stop the engine when the vehicle is stationary in order to prevent noise. The effect of these Regulations is to amend that provision so as to add the prevention of exhaust emissions as a reason for stopping the engine.
The fine is listed as £30 but a non-endoursable ticket (no points).Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 23 Aug 2007
Location: Kent
Posts: 10564
Ian825 wrote:
Hi,
Been following this for a while, mine has had problems with the FBH starting on occasion & not on others especially during cold weather, I checked the battery & I thought it was low so charged it but the intermittent starting of the FBH was the same.
Dealer had it in last week & was unable to find anything wrong!
Took it back in today to leave with them for few days for them to monitor & after 2 hours they advise the alternator is goosed! no word on the FBH problem - I assume they are related but would have thought a low battery was more cause for the FBH to not start?
Anyway long & short is that a new alternator is on back order & due 24th Feb earliest so its now laid up in the dealership now I'm waiting for a courtesy car to be delivered tomorrow & the problem there is I need one with a towbar which seems to be mission impossible
Ian
LR run a fleet of D4's with tow bars for just that reaason, had one 16 months ago for 6 weekd while mine was in for work MY17 D5 1st Edition Namib Orange
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so its now laid up in the dealership 
now I'm waiting for a courtesy car to be delivered tomorrow & the problem there is I need one with a towbar which seems to be mission impossible 
