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anglefire
Member Since: 09 Mar 2010
Location: In the Club House
Posts: 4180
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| Re: cam belt replacement cost |
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bigtam64 wrote:Angelfire
my cam belts are due this sept 
how much should i put away for an indi in leeds to do them both
cheers
Doug
No idea - full service, belts and auxiliary pulley's etc are going to be something like £800 - but others have got it a lot cheaper. But the service I'm getting is a full, not partial service - think the belts themselves is about £300 + VAT Mark.
2006, D3 SE Auto - gone but not forgotten.
2014 BMW 530d M Sport Tourer.
1977 Triumph Spitfire 1500
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Disco Picture Website Here
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 4th Mar 2012 7:54 am |
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Matty 2332
Member Since: 02 Dec 2008
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 670
  
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Nasher wrote:Anyone have the correct dimensions for the cam locking pins?
Thanks
Nasher.
Locking pins are 5.9mm and I made mine 110mm in length which was ample. Locator pin is 5.5mm
I didn't lock my crank as the starter is a nightmare to remove, plus I didn't have a crank shaft locking tool. If you mark the crank correctly when you first lock your cam pulleys before removing the old belt It should be okay. When I applied and set the tensioner, the crank pulley did move slightly, but with the cam pulleys retaining bolts slackened off (but still locked) I was able to move them (cam pulleys) to realign my crank pulley. If that makes sense 
I didn't bother with the water pump though, if it does start to cause problems its easier to get to as it runs off the accessory (serpentine) belt not the timing belt. Would still involve the removal of the viscous fan, as stated mine was quite easy to remove. 
If anyone is planning on doing there own timing belt, you are welcome to borrow my locking pins to save you the cost of hiring/ buying a set just to use once.
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| 4th Mar 2012 8:24 am |
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Nasher
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2815
 
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Disco_Mikey wrote:
5.9mm
Matty 2332 wrote:
Locking pins are 5.9mm and I made mine 110mm in length which was ample. Locator pin is 5.5mm
Thanks Guys
I'll be turning mine up before starting the job.
Nasher Heaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
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| 4th Mar 2012 11:18 am |
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Kingmav66
Member Since: 20 Jul 2010
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 1349
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Matty 2332 wrote:
I didn't lock my crank as the starter is a nightmare to remove, plus I didn't have a crank shaft locking tool. If you mark the crank correctly when you first lock your cam pulleys before removing the old belt It should be okay. When I applied and set the tensioner, the crank pulley did move slightly, but with the cam pulleys retaining bolts slackened off (but still locked) I was able to move them (cam pulleys) to realign my crank pulley. If that makes sense
Matty, i might be being a bit stooopid, but how do you know the crank is in the correct position when you mark it?
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| 6th Mar 2012 12:10 am |
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Matty 2332
Member Since: 02 Dec 2008
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 670
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You only mark the crank pulley when you have locked your cam pulleys in the 'safe' position and before removing the old belt. The tensioner is a crap piece of kit that I would strongly advise you use a good thread lock substance on. When you apply the tensioner your crank pulley will move off the mark by half a tooth, you can counter this by slackening off the cam pulley bolts as they are slotted and allow a small degree of play, whilst the cam locking pins are still inserted, so you are moving the pulleys, but not the cams if that makes sense. Have a look at the pics in my gallery.
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| 6th Mar 2012 5:22 am |
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Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20842
 
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Matty 2332 wrote: you can counter this by slackening off the cam pulley bolts as they are slotted and allow a small degree of play, whilst the cam locking pins are still inserted, so you are moving the pulleys, but not the cams if that makes sense.
This is the way it should be done anyway My D3 Build Thread
TDV8 Retrofit Build Thread
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| 6th Mar 2012 6:45 am |
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