den2013
Member Since: 03 Jan 2013
Location: Alland
Posts: 622
  
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No problem Comc, yes it will be a busy time, but as soon as i have them i will try one in one side, it will only take 5 mins and then i will know and will post up here. 2015 D4 HSE LUX Kaikoura Stone(sold)
2010 D4 S Commercial Santorini Black(SWMBO)(sold)
2014 Evoque Dynamic Kaikoura Stone (sold)
2013 Porsche Boxster S (Fun car)
2008 D3 HSE Java Black(sold)
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 13th Feb 2013 10:42 am |
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Discoed
Member Since: 16 Jun 2010
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 1020
 
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den2013 wrote:No problem Comc, yes it will be a busy time, but as soon as i have them i will try one in one side, it will only take 5 mins and then i will know and will post up here.
Any news on these? do they fit and work OK? Have you had time to try?
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| 18th Feb 2013 7:59 pm |
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den2013
Member Since: 03 Jan 2013
Location: Alland
Posts: 622
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Hi Discoed,
I don't have them yet, but i will have them this saturday the 23rd and will try them in the morning. 
well as long as the baby does not come during the night on friday  2015 D4 HSE LUX Kaikoura Stone(sold)
2010 D4 S Commercial Santorini Black(SWMBO)(sold)
2014 Evoque Dynamic Kaikoura Stone (sold)
2013 Porsche Boxster S (Fun car)
2008 D3 HSE Java Black(sold)
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| 18th Feb 2013 10:02 pm |
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den2013
Member Since: 03 Jan 2013
Location: Alland
Posts: 622
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Okay managed to try them today,
they do work, they stopped the fast flashing inside the car, but unfortunately the side that holds the bulb will not go into the headlight, it's way to big.
The box looks like it will go in but from what i can see it will have to be a bit of a strip down to get it in which wont be a problem if you are looking to detango the headlight. 2015 D4 HSE LUX Kaikoura Stone(sold)
2010 D4 S Commercial Santorini Black(SWMBO)(sold)
2014 Evoque Dynamic Kaikoura Stone (sold)
2013 Porsche Boxster S (Fun car)
2008 D3 HSE Java Black(sold)
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| 22nd Feb 2013 6:59 pm |
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yogi972
Member Since: 05 Jun 2011
Location: Kineton
Posts: 3373
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I fitted my front Ambers today, the resistors from hids easily fit but I added a length of insulated wire to each end of the resistor, heat shrank the soldered joints.
Theses were wired in parallel to the Indicator wires I side the headlamp unit and self amalgamation tape was applied to those joints.
To secure the resistor I mearly wrapped some 1.5mm PVC coated copper wire (twin and earth)
I used the blue  but not the bare cpc as it runs the risk of shorting.
I wrapped this around one end of the resistor and secured it to the back of the cornering light holder.
I've left my hazards on for 15 mins when I was doing the rear clusters and the resistor didnt even get warm.
But on all four corners the resistors are secured in such a manner that there is free air around them
I have some pics which I will post when I'm off my phone...
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| 22nd Feb 2013 7:29 pm |
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Comc
Member Since: 14 Jan 2013
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 238
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Den.....sorry to hear you have had slight issues with your fitment. Thanks for the info though.
Yogi.......looking forward to a few pics of your install. I have the resistors sitting in my garage just waiting for my effort. Your pictorial on the DVD install was top notch and reassuring, so I am hoping for the same on this one Colin
Sunroof Drains Cleared
BAS EGR Blanking Kit Installed
Perm Live Aux "Link"
DVD Player Installed
LED sidelights, front indicators, side repeaters, number plate lights, interior lighting done
De-IrnBru'd Headlights
D4 Rear Lights
Belts Changed by Indy
Dr Tranny added to Gearbox
Aftermarket LR Bluetooth Kit removed and D4 Module installed
Suspension Compressor Dryer Overhaul
Front Fog Light Loom Repaired
Drivers Heated Seat Base Replaced
To do:
Remap
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| 22nd Feb 2013 8:12 pm |
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Woolmeister
Member Since: 26 Mar 2007
Location: Chandler's Ford
Posts: 3464
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I did exactly the same as Yogi with my resistors (soldered a length of insulated 5A cable to each end of the resistor, heat shrink over the soldered joint (two layers), and I found that the twisted and doubled over bare wires at the opposite ends of the insulated 5A cable could be simply inserted into the repeater bulb holders between the copper terminal and the plastic body of the bulb holder (held in only by the pressure of the copper terminals pushing against the inside edges of the bulb holders). They've been like for over a week now with no issues. Doing this makes them dead easy to remove without trace should I ever want to stick the old tungsten filament bulbs back in (unlikely). I guess you could solder them if you wanted to but I didn't see a need to do this.
Didn't bother mounting the resistors anywhere; they're just resting in the bottom of my headlamp units. They really don't get that hot.
Simples.
I'm not sure you would get them hot using just by putting the hazards on for 15 minutes, you would have to use the indicators for the additional resistance to come into play (for some reason the hazards do not suffer from fast flash without resistors).
Steve 2021 BMW iX3 Premier Edition in Carbon Black ⚡️🔌
2019 Škoda Kodiaq 2.0 Tdi 190 DSG Sportline in Quartz Grey. Excellent vehicle. Gone.
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2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 S Manual in Zermatt Silver with Ebony Cloth (143k) Gone, but now patrolling the Asia section of the West Midlands Safari Park!
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| 22nd Feb 2013 8:23 pm |
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yogi972
Member Since: 05 Jun 2011
Location: Kineton
Posts: 3373
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My comment about the hazards was aimed at a previous post on a similar thread where its claimed some resistors get hot enough to melt plastic when the hazards are on.
So did it for my own piece of mind.
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| 22nd Feb 2013 8:32 pm |
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MarkOne
Member Since: 23 Jul 2011
Location: County Antrim
Posts: 3345
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Is there any reason why you just can't buy amber chromed 3157 bulbs as you can buy them. Just to save from going down the whole led and resistor route?
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| 22nd Feb 2013 9:01 pm |
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yogi972
Member Since: 05 Jun 2011
Location: Kineton
Posts: 3373
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No reason what so ever, but if you're going the whole hog and changing all your incandecants to LEDs then its the resistor route but it is so easy to do.
The resistors for hids come with scotchlocks (which I detest) and that makes the job easier than soldering but prone to water ingress of the cable of the rear lights. Would work ok in the front units though but would reccomend insulation. Of the exposed conductors
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| 22nd Feb 2013 9:16 pm |
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MarkOne
Member Since: 23 Jul 2011
Location: County Antrim
Posts: 3345
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Yes fair enough can see the point while your in there, I like to keep things simple and don't see the need for LEDs on an indicator bulb.
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| 22nd Feb 2013 9:41 pm |
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Comc
Member Since: 14 Jan 2013
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 238
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I suppose it all comes down to personal taste, but I prefer the clean crisp on/off of the led indicator as opposed to the throb of the standard bulb.
SWMBO doesn't understand this, funnily enough  Colin
Sunroof Drains Cleared
BAS EGR Blanking Kit Installed
Perm Live Aux "Link"
DVD Player Installed
LED sidelights, front indicators, side repeaters, number plate lights, interior lighting done
De-IrnBru'd Headlights
D4 Rear Lights
Belts Changed by Indy
Dr Tranny added to Gearbox
Aftermarket LR Bluetooth Kit removed and D4 Module installed
Suspension Compressor Dryer Overhaul
Front Fog Light Loom Repaired
Drivers Heated Seat Base Replaced
To do:
Remap
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| 22nd Feb 2013 10:43 pm |
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yogi972
Member Since: 05 Jun 2011
Location: Kineton
Posts: 3373
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I like the instantaneous on/off look of the LEDs , my main reason for the upgrade, plus my amber bulbs at the front where too bright since de tangoing the headlamps and I could see the shine on the road/car in front/road furniture
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| 22nd Feb 2013 10:54 pm |
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Discoed
Member Since: 16 Jun 2010
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 1020
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Woolmeister wrote:
Didn't bother mounting the resistors anywhere; they're just resting in the bottom of my headlamp units. They really don't get that hot.
I have done the same - all working fine
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| 26th Feb 2013 2:42 pm |
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Skagg
Member Since: 15 May 2015
Location: Not where i'd like to be
Posts: 1043
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What size resistors did you guys use in the front? I've got 15 ohm ballast resistors on all four corners with D4 lights on the rear & LED indicators on the front but can't get the double clicker to stop?
I see most notes on the 15 ohm resistors are referring to the rear lights & CRWoody did mention 6.8 - 10 ohm earlier in the thread.
I'm wondering if I need to change to 6 on the front from 15?
Probably best I continue this conversation here as it's becoming less relevant to the original topic in this thread
https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/post2054631.html#2054631
Cheers n Gone Nick MY16 D4 Landmark SDV6 (The Ice Maiden)
Uncle Ray's spare wheel protector
MY08 D3 HSE Stornoway (Miss Moneypit) The money tree withered......
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| 20th May 2019 4:42 pm |
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