Member Since: 15 Oct 2006
Location: Gold Coast
Posts: 44
Voltage performance on rear power auxillary socket
Hi all,
Just purchased a new 3 way fridge which draws 10 amps and 120 watts on 12V. Anyone know whether the rear aux power can handle this? I have read that in most new vehicles, the poor quality of cable used + 3 metres to the outlet results in severe voltage drop and poor fridge performance. Any comment?TDV6 D3 HSE
Previously D2 TD5
31st Mar 2007 2:48 am
Tony
Member Since: 20 Apr 2006
Location: Adelaide Hills
Posts: 183
You would be better off having a dedicated wire run direct from the battery to a decent power socket. This will give you far better cooling as there will be much less voltage drop, and of course, the socket will carry more current and be much more reliable than the cig. lighter type. It will also be live all the time - the standard one is only live when the ignition is 'on'. (But of course you will have to remember not to leave the fridge connected for too long while the engine is not running, unless the fridge has a battery protection circuit to automatically switch off before the car battery is fully flattened!)
3-way fridges work well if they have sufficient voltage - most complaints of inefficient cooling are a result of wiring not heavy enough to prevent voltage drop.
Cheers,
Tony.Ex Defender 110 200Tdi owner.
31st Mar 2007 3:01 am
MarkTaylor
Member Since: 28 Dec 2006
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 185
You will probably find that your 3 way fridge will struggle on 12 volts. The reality is that they don't generate enough heat to run very well. However, when you are camped, they run very well on gas. Get them cold on 240 at home before you leave. I really don't think (as an old auto electrician) that a new hard wired plug will make a lot of difference. My WAECO runs OK from the rear socket, but then it only uses a large amount of power on start up.
Before you go to all the trouble, why not try it out on the existing socket?
Good luck
Cheers
mark TNothing of any value is ever achieved without some sacrifice.
is it difficult to run waeco cable and plug from battery to rear of my D3S model;do I have to drill holes anywhere;as far as I can tell there is no plug at rear
thanksRonRon Krieger
You'll find a rubber grommet in the firewall on the brake booster side where the brake master cylinder is mounted. You need to pierce a hole through the felt to access the cabin after you pull the grommet out.
After this you can route cables where ever you want inside the cabin.
Chris2011 Discovery 4 (MY12) SDV6 HSE with General Grabber AT's, Traxide Aux Battery system, custom rear drawers and Autosafe half height cargo barrier
Gone - 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE
ARB Bull Bar, Warn 9.5XP Winch, IPF D/Lights, Cooper STT's, LR Raised Air Intake, Traxide aux battery system, custom drawers and half height Autosafe cargo barrier, Mitchell Bros 4x4 tow hitch
19th Jun 2007 3:07 am
Rob Bruce
Member Since: 18 Jun 2006
Location: Canberra
Posts: 687
3 fridge is great on gas for a base camp, which is what I use mine for,mine is very old , orignally I tried to
use it in my HJ60 Tojo and was very disapointed, even on aux battery.
So now have an Engal for car and use Chescold 3 way when at a camp for some time, at least a fiew days,
other wise for on the go stuf just use Engal.
Eney way thats my tuppence hapney worth
Rob Bruce
19th Jun 2007 7:30 am
DiscoDunc
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
I run an Engel 35ltr from the rear power socket and it works great, had it down to minus 10c the weekend with no propblemsDuncan
-----------------------------------------------------
If I'd known I was going to be so thirsty this morning I'd have drunk more beer last night.
FFRR Autobiography 4.4 SDV8 MY17
D4 HSE MY13 SOLD
FFRR 3.6 Vogue TDV8 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D4 SE TECH MY15 SOLD
D4 XS MY12 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D3 HSE MY06 - Re-Cycled Worldwide
Was that ambient temp? Did you think I would leave you crying,
When there's room in my D3 for 7,
Climb in here Joe we'll soon be flying,
I can go just as fast with 7.
2005 TDV6 S with Terrain Response (& all that entails), Tasmods (gorn). 2008 TDV6 HSE (gone). A Dark Side umbrella (here) & car (here).
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
Duncan
-----------------------------------------------------
If I'd known I was going to be so thirsty this morning I'd have drunk more beer last night.
FFRR Autobiography 4.4 SDV8 MY17
D4 HSE MY13 SOLD
FFRR 3.6 Vogue TDV8 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D4 SE TECH MY15 SOLD
D4 XS MY12 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D3 HSE MY06 - Re-Cycled Worldwide
What is the best way to route power cable from aux battery to the rear of a D3? I want to add a couple of power outlets in the off side cargo area and an Anderson socket to go to trailer. So, probably 4 or 8 AWG cable.
I have the battery and about to receive the isolator and was told to route power leads to rear - before installing the battery. There is not much room there afterwards - unless you have noodle arms and tiny hands!
After I get them through the fire wall I wrapped them in the automotive plastic conduit to hold multiple wires together and for abrasion resistence then feed them along the drivers side transmission tunnel. You can tuck most of it up in the plastic trim where the drivers left leg is. Then when they emerge at the rear of the drivers seat near the transmission tunnel I hide it under the rubber mats to then emerge behind the middle row seats. From here you can hid them under the mats and route them into the cargo area.
So the wires are not behind any trim and are easily moved. The wire guage is quite heavy so if someone stepped on them they would not get damaged and also they are wrapped in automitive conduit. This has worked for me and no trim is removed to hide cables.
Chris2011 Discovery 4 (MY12) SDV6 HSE with General Grabber AT's, Traxide Aux Battery system, custom rear drawers and Autosafe half height cargo barrier
Gone - 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE
ARB Bull Bar, Warn 9.5XP Winch, IPF D/Lights, Cooper STT's, LR Raised Air Intake, Traxide aux battery system, custom drawers and half height Autosafe cargo barrier, Mitchell Bros 4x4 tow hitch
19th Jun 2007 11:11 pm
away
Member Since: 18 Nov 2006
Location: Cossack
Posts: 111
I found that I was getting the "error" light on my Waecos when running from the rear socket, so I ran a dedicated supply to the rear of the vehicle.
I ran my cables from the auxilliary battery, under the vehicle to an Anderson plug at the rear. Because I was worried about impact damage I used double-insulated cables and put them into split conduit (to be sure, to be sure). I came up inside the RHS quarter panel, passing each cable through a gland and mounted the Anderson plug on the little rectangle of removable plastic next to the RHS rear window. (Cheaper to replace a small piece of plastic than a huge plastic panel!) I used 8 B & S cable and it is heavy enough to run both my Waeco fridges (CF50 as a freezer and CF40 as a 'fridge.)
I made a breakout box that plugs into the Anderson plug and has 5 x 10Amp outlets in it. I fused the cable at both ends (battery and Anderson plug). When parked up I run a heavier lead (6 B & S)back to the car from the camper and plug the breakout box into the camper lead instead. I could "back charge" the auxilliary battery from the solar panels at the camper, but as the 8 B & S cable is a bit light for this, I don't bother.
CheersD4: Expedition Rack, 104 Litre Long Range Tank, Raised Air Intake
D3: Every bloomin' thing but the kitchen sink
I was hoping to route the cable inside the cabin - to avoid being damaged by rocks/sticks... but not run it over the carpet. Something like along the side - beside the doors possibly under the scratch plates, inside convoluted tubing. Any ideas if there is space under there?
Yes there is as Ian Ten F/C does this.Home of RLD Hidden winch mounts Spare wheel Locks Trailer Body Fabrication ray@rld-tech.co.uk D3/4 sump plates MY 14 sump plates and the Discovery Sport wheel protectors Discovery 5 wheel locks
more Helsport tents and other things for camping Law of Mechanical Repair:
"After your hands are coated with grease, your nose will begin to itch and you'll have to pee!"
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
Law of Mechanical Repair:
