Member Since: 08 Mar 2024
Location: Manchester
Posts: 17
Slowly revs up and rocks on idle
7th Apr 2024 9:37 pm
Discobob!!!
Member Since: 08 Mar 2024
Location: Manchester
Posts: 17
Fireburst wrote:
Hi, My money is on the crankshaft position sensor.
I have just had a situation where the car would stall and after several attempts would restart and run for a month without issue. The IID kept showing no faults!
I replaced the starter motor and it started immediately, I thought I had fixed it but one week later it stalled again on my drive and no way would it restart. Because I got a battery warning on the dash I thought I would replace the alternator with a genuine Denso and it started straight away, ran fine for about a week and then the engine cut out while I was driving. I got the car home and tried the IID again this time I kept the engine turning over for at least 10 - 15 seconds and got a crankshaft sensor fault message.
Replaced the crank sensor and the car has been running perfectly for for the past month.
Good luck!
So im leaning towards this as the issue now, ive rechecked all the timing and the 3 pins line up and after 2 rotations line back up so ive ruled incorrect timing out.
When i hooked it up to the diagnostic, it did say both camshaft and crankshaft sensor faults but the lad with me said they’re linked so could have been the camshaft that was replaced but maybe it was both.
So the car starts fine which it didn’t do before all the parts I replaced and now its just a constant misfire on the drivers side. I thought it was a knock but when i removed the intake it pops so im pretty confident its a misfire
14th Apr 2024 11:41 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4673
What codes are being logged?yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
14th Apr 2024 2:19 pm
Discobob!!!
Member Since: 08 Mar 2024
Location: Manchester
Posts: 17
Any advice on how to get the crankshaft sensor back in? I’ve tried all sorts of ways and even roped the wife in but i cant for the life of me get it back into the hole with the bolt lined up. A mate said he takes the gearbox out but that seems a but excessive for a sensor and doesn’t mention in the workshop manual
5th May 2024 3:17 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4673
There's essentially two way's for the D4. (1) remove the upper suspension arm and the heat shields. Then you should have a clear albeit a narrow line of sight of the sensor housing from the top of the chassis rail. Using a series long 1/4" extensions you can then access the bolt. Other bits & bobs such as the turbo drain etc need to be moved also.
(2) The "old way". For this you will need the aid of a snake neck inspection camera (cheap on the net) This has to be judiciously placed so that it's held hands free, and that you can monitor what you are doing on your phone. And that will also need to be strategically placed!
Think of it as endoscopic surgery and if you didn't already, you'll have a very definite appreciation for the surgeons who do this day in day out!
If the auto transmission lines are hindering your access you will need to move them. Nothing worth worrying about will spill from the transmission, but ideally new seals should be fitted. Below is a pic of the sensor on a D3 just to give you an idea of what you are dealing with. The camera lens became fogged up hence the poor quality.
For the most part you're working completely blind (hence the camera). It's not an easy job but definitely not a "transmission out" one either! Patience and perseverance are key attributes for this little piggy.
yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
5th May 2024 4:05 pm
Discobob!!!
Member Since: 08 Mar 2024
Location: Manchester
Posts: 17
Thanks mate, and looking at that picture and the screw to sensor orientation, the screw is on top or under the sensor if you know what I mean.
5th May 2024 4:46 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4673
If memory serves me correctly on a D4 it's at the bottom, under the fly lead. yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
5th May 2024 6:09 pm
Discobob!!!
Member Since: 08 Mar 2024
Location: Manchester
Posts: 17
Yeah i think you’re right mate cheers. Im going to order a little camera and see what it looks like and then decide the plan of action.
Im missing the beast now so can’t wait to get it up and running again, I don’t care what people say about them i love it and hopefully i can get at least 12 months before the next issue 😂
5th May 2024 7:02 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4673
Just a tip when using an endoscopic camera.
The external lens glass cover on these cameras tend to be extremely brittle. If it touches any metal part while you are trying to get it in place there's a very high probability it will crack, thus rendering any image useless. You can circumvent this by placing a piece of firm hose over the camera end so that it sits 3-5mm proud of the end of the lens. It won't impair the image but it will protect the incredibly thin glass.
A few wraps of strong tape would do the same, but it may collapse if you contact a hard surface thus blocking the image! Then you have to withdraw and start all over again. yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
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and if you didn't already, you'll have a very definite appreciation for the surgeons who do this day in day out!
