Biker Pete
Member Since: 23 Jan 2014
Location: Gateshead
Posts: 513
  
|
Excellent!!!
I have to do mine and that is very helpful. Thanks for posting it 
|
 21st Jan 2015 8:41 am |
|
|
Sydney
Member Since: 11 Aug 2013
Location: St Neots
Posts: 903
|
Just done mine, what a pain in the hoop to get to!!! De-Tango
V8 Brakes
EGRs blanked
Running boards
3 flash indicators and clock on dash
Blingy grille...
|
| 25th Jan 2015 3:33 pm |
|
|
Johnny Oxford
Member Since: 14 Dec 2014
Location: Chinnor
Posts: 515
 
|
planning on doing this soon too, have seen other threads showing access from under the wheel arch rather than down through the battery area.
Any opinion on which is the easier job? 2014 D4 HSE Facelift Corris Grey
Previous :
Discovery Sport SE (awful)
56 plate D3 HSE TDV6 Zermatt Silver
Defender 90 200tdi
|
| 25th Jan 2015 3:52 pm |
|
|
Sydney
Member Since: 11 Aug 2013
Location: St Neots
Posts: 903
|
I went through the wheel arch. Jacked the corner up to get better access, didn't bother taking the wheel off. De-Tango
V8 Brakes
EGRs blanked
Running boards
3 flash indicators and clock on dash
Blingy grille...
|
| 25th Jan 2015 3:54 pm |
|
|
bsm
Member Since: 14 May 2012
Location: Ellikom
Posts: 232
 
|
+1 for the wheel arch, is the quickest way. Jack up the left front side until the wheel nearly comes off the ground. No need to take the wheel off. As I wrote in my post on previous page, this is not possible on a LHD car. 2017-...: Disco II Td5 auto, 1999, BAS remap, HD TC and auto box Ashcroft, Allisport IC, ACE, 2" lift only coils, BF goodrich KM2 265/70R17, FF front and rear bumper, TF steering guard and tree sliders, nanocom.
2013-2017: Disco 3 TDV6 HSE aut. of 2008, Britpart treesliders, IIDTool, RLD sump guard, BFG KM2 265/70R17, adj. rods, BAS remap + EGRs blanked, silicon IC hoses.
2010-2013: Disco II Td5 of 2000, ACE, front Bearmach HD coils, rear SLS, GG AT2
|
| 25th Jan 2015 9:09 pm |
|
|
Yeti-dj
Member Since: 27 Jan 2015
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 3
 
|
I have just done this on my D3 I have owned for about a week after a fault reading on the dash.
Got the actuator nice and free so thought all was good but started the car today and the fault is back.
Don't think wd40 is really up to the job of keeping it lived for long, it's probably burning off with the heat.
What other oils have people tried? Not liking the copper grease idea as this can almost turn into a fringing paste and its an anti seize and not a lubricant.
Thanks for the help
|
| 30th Jan 2015 10:26 am |
|
|
Apache
Member Since: 17 Oct 2011
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 691
 
|
I did mine today (from above). Not sure I would have found the bit to wiggle without the aid of the video!
I just used WD40. I'm tending to think it needs the crud removing and cleaning away rather than a coat of lubricant to attract more crud.
Taking the battery out etc and checking the video on here (twice) and the job still tool less than 45 mins - most of that was spent looking for something to wiggle it with!
|
| 30th Jan 2015 4:44 pm |
|
|
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
|
WD40 really is rubbish at just about anything, duck oil is a good release oil, but I doubt anything is going to last long on a turbocharger
|
| 30th Jan 2015 6:37 pm |
|
|
Sandor
Member Since: 28 Dec 2014
Location: Csikszereda
Posts: 53
 
|
Finally I done it today. It wasn't stuck, but with a lot of oil like deposits along, I think, the little intercooler hose. Really hard to clean it up.
Planning to repeat de job soon. Any ideas what to use for cleaning the stuff?
Thanks for the good post, the pictures helped a lot.
for bsm
|
| 26th Apr 2015 6:31 pm |
|
|
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
|
Brake cleaner is excellent for cleaning oil etc off, just make sure engine is cold and no smoking etc for at least 10 minutes while it evaporates, use it all the time to get rid of oil and diesel spills at work.
|
| 26th Apr 2015 6:52 pm |
|
|
joakes
Member Since: 16 Oct 2009
Location: UK
Posts: 49
|
Jack the other wheel up and spray through and lubricate the auto box linkage at the same time, easy joakes
|
| 26th Apr 2015 7:08 pm |
|
|
Sandor
Member Since: 28 Dec 2014
Location: Csikszereda
Posts: 53
|
Thanks. 
|
| 26th Apr 2015 7:56 pm |
|
|
theanswers
Member Since: 30 Jun 2010
Location: Sligo/ Belfast
Posts: 244
 
|
I'm trying to do this today, however there seems to be a cover where the actuator should be? Are the all the same.
|
| 11th May 2015 2:38 pm |
|
|
theanswers
Member Since: 30 Jun 2010
Location: Sligo/ Belfast
Posts: 244
|
Have it sorted. It was right there in front of me! 
|
| 11th May 2015 4:02 pm |
|
|
truck5181
Member Since: 31 Dec 2010
Location: york
Posts: 54
|
Did mine this morn, after getting "engine system fault" on dash and reading on here what the problem could be  didn't take long just jacked near side up, took heat shield off and with a head torch and a length of strong fence wire bent in the right places managed to free off the seized rod, after a few pulls and pushes and a generous helping of duck oil was all it needed to give the old girl a new lease of life 
Thanks to the helpful posts on this brill forum
|
| 21st May 2015 12:34 pm |
|
|
