Member Since: 09 Feb 2014
Location: London
Posts: 285
What is the best way to diagnose that the pipe needs replacing?
Thanks
8th Oct 2016 7:30 am
rovlecky
Member Since: 07 Aug 2012
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 131
Having had it twice replaced on my previous D3 2nd time because a securing bracket was missed . The most obvious diagnosis is the noise that comes from it. in my case it sounded like a piece paper jammed in the air duct best described as a flapping noise. if left it will get will louder like a burst exhaust noise as SWMBO found out . I have been told these items are a once in a lifetime of the car replacement.Why does every page of the manual have fingerprints?
8th Oct 2016 7:54 am
Iain_B
Member Since: 05 Jan 2015
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 10
One way is to take the plastic undertray off, and if there is any black soot, they you have a problem. On ours, it started as a slightly louder exhaust note on acceleration, noticeable black smoke on hard acceleration and a slower pick up. When it finally went, cracking all the way around one of the bellows, it was a loud noise, lots of black smoke on acceleration. The OEM bellows are paper thin,
Member Since: 05 Jan 2015
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 10
Just thought I would do an update on the repair, two months and about 6,000km later and the repaired crossover is still working fine. Hopefully it lasts for a long time Discovery SE TDV6
Defender 110
Discovery Tdi
Unimog U1250 Expedition Truck
Member Since: 07 Jun 2016
Location: Dumfries Scotland- Leszno Poland
Posts: 5
Can anyone advise on the diameter of the pipe and length for the bend section ?
Need to replace mine both wont to get the parts in first .
Thanks
23rd Mar 2017 6:26 pm
isbjorn
Member Since: 04 Mar 2017
Location: Sweden
Posts: 14
Did you get any error codes for limp mode while having the broken Crossoverpipe?
Ive got a exhaust leaking disco3, probably crossoverpipe, but the ECU gives me a pressure to low in DPF error and puts it in limp mode. Maybe you haven't got the DPF?
Just wondering of the two problems are connected or not? Already checked the fileter and sensor. All looks good.
Thanks.
26th Apr 2017 8:12 am
trailhound
Member Since: 27 Aug 2015
Location: Colchester
Posts: 697
The Britpart version of 1357035 is a couple of hundred quid cheaper - OR is this a false economy....
23rd May 2017 6:59 pm
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
Britpart has its place but on something so difficult to replace who wants to be the unofficial tester?
23rd May 2017 7:52 pm
trailhound
Member Since: 27 Aug 2015
Location: Colchester
Posts: 697
Has a 2 year warranty as opposed to 1 year on LR part.
23rd May 2017 8:23 pm
Discomadness
Member Since: 19 Jan 2015
Location: Caerphilly
Posts: 2256
Trex-on wrote:
Now we have removed the EGR and cooler we have access to the near side crossoverpipe manifold and manifold heat shield. Remove the heat shield to allowing access to the top manifold bolt.
Can I query what you used to get at the rear bolt on the heat shield ? I've failed to get on it ! Looks like I'm going to have to remove the exhaust. It's too tight to get a ratche/8mm socket (1/4 drive) on it and the depression in the heat shield is too tight to get a flex end ratchet spanner on. I suppose a deeper ring spanner might do it....Jarrod
Current : D3 2007 HSE - AKA the lemon
-beanie grille
-detango with led bulbs
-club body off rebuild. TWICE.
11th Jun 2017 4:17 pm
Seargent74
Member Since: 20 Feb 2019
Location: Shepeau stow
Posts: 4
If i take battery tray out how much of the turbo can you see ?
27th May 2019 5:46 pm
Trex-on
Member Since: 23 Oct 2013
Location: Peebles
Posts: 65
You can see part of the top left of the turbo but it's not very visable from there. Try looking through the wheel arch, you may need to losen of a heat shield, other than that from the underside.
27th May 2019 6:29 pm
jimmydunc
Member Since: 22 Feb 2010
Location: queensland
Posts: 18
Crossover pipe details
Have been studying this topic for a while came across Trex's excellent thread and decided to take the plunge also as I had a quote of $4500 just for body off to replace pipe. Obviously in these times that sort of cash spent on car repair wasn't going to happen. To the point I have used this site on more than several occasions to cut through the crap they serve you at LR dealers and have kept the old girl going up until now. Definetly a cracked crossover as Auto trans was done 3 years ago and when noise and fumes got the better of me got under and checked to find not only the crack ( drivers side) but what appeared to be part of one of the brackets that were supposedly holding it in place!
Anyways I have followed Trex instructions up until the EGR cooler removal as I can't seem to unattach the wiring housing as it is hard up against another wrap of wires but I might show more patience tomorrow.I have taken off the hose and clamped it.I can see 2 bolts that hold the cooler to body but can't see third one.I have removed shield through wheel arch and can see the manifold cover over COP and turbo.
I don't know what to do to get to the remove cooler step and do I have to do the drivers side EGR as well so I can get to that side of COP. It looks like removing the fuel filter would give me more room.
Any help , more pics would be greatyou want to get out - ya talk to me
16th Apr 2020 9:06 am
wedgev8
Member Since: 17 May 2019
Location: Kerpen
Posts: 181
Hello,
Do you have new infos about your project?
It seems I have to so the same in the next weeks.
Regards, Tom
6th May 2020 7:33 am
jimmydunc
Member Since: 22 Feb 2010
Location: queensland
Posts: 18
Hi mate, short story is I gave up! I was spewing that I had to but the EGR removal was looking a nightmare and i didn't want to get to the point of no return and have our Landy stuck in the garage with a half-arsed job! I weighed up the options and settled on giving it to my auto-transmission guy so he could drop the trans out and get at the pipe in a matter of minutes.I sounds drastic but he quoted me $600 to do the job.I gave him the new pipe (2nd hand but in great condition from wrecker at $220 with all brackets) new gaskets, studs and nuts for the job.However because he has been real busy it has taken a week plus to hopefully get it back today.He did mention in the phone calls asking how he was going about how much soot was under the car and it dropping it all over his workshop(better his than my garage)but he seemed pretty confident with the project.I do however have to replace our front sunroof that exploded just before Xmas to add to our dramas, so that will be another project that I feel I can accomplish as I have had plenty of time to study up on what needs to be done.Sorry I couldn't help with the COP, but it is a stupid design and it really shouldn't be failing but I had the trans done in 2017 and I'm pretty sure that old mate didn't put all the brackets back on when he did the job.By taking it back to him I got a few shots off to remind him how this probably came about.But as he was the only guy(that actually does LR transmission rebuilds that don't require mortgaging their house)and was willing to do the job I didn't push my luck.If you do go ahead, Trex's write up was excellent but there wasn't enough about the EGR part as it was bloody fiddly to get even have of it done. the complete exhaust removal seemed a better idea but I had had enough by then. Good luck and send some pics (processes)if you have a go as there is very little on the web apart from resorting to body off (Quoted at $4600 plus parts)you want to get out - ya talk to me
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. The most obvious diagnosis is the noise that comes from it. in my case it sounded like a piece paper jammed in the air duct best described as a flapping noise. if left it will get will louder like a burst exhaust noise as SWMBO found out 
. I have been told these items are a once in a lifetime of the car replacement.
