Member Since: 23 Feb 2009
Location: Greater Manchester
Posts: 1454
Body Removal
I posted this on another thread about tailgates, but it's probably better with its own more relevant thread title
"Discovery is inside, it is on its 4 wheels at the moment as i didn't want to occupy a 2 poster ramp until i got most of the upper body and engine stuff removed.........i'm a slow worker and didn't want to take the mick as this is a favour. Garage shutting down for a few days so i can move the Discovery to one of the ramps and didn't want to push it around with the taigates open.
Any tips on body removal welcome, i've got Disco Mikeys write up printed but still apprehensive about all the wiring connectors especially near the battery and near headlights (its an early 08 Auto model).
Just remembered, do the hoses for heater have to be removed at bulkhead or near the engine on LHS (looking in to bay from front), and the vacuum hose - i removed a single connector near the brake booster, are there others near the engine bulkhead to be disconnected?
Like i said........slowly slowly Laughing Laughing "
24th Dec 2015 2:32 am
galwaygreen
Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: plymouth
Posts: 6525
go for it...keep us updated....exciting
24th Dec 2015 2:35 am
defector
Member Since: 23 Feb 2009
Location: Greater Manchester
Posts: 1454
Protecting Electrical connectors from moisture
Whilst i'm at it with all the electrical connectors etc, i've read quite a few threads on corroded connectors, so at this stage is it worthwhile using some sort of dielectric/electrical grease on all the connectors on reassembly for some worthwhile protection.
Any recommendations from people more knowledgeable on electrics would be great.
24th Dec 2015 2:37 am
stew 46
Member Since: 01 Dec 2011
Location: cornwall
Posts: 10146
It brings back some memories
I would advise do everything you can when the body is off
Check all hoses , turbo actuator , all wiring , replace brake pipes , treat any rust , any thing that's easier with body off , I even replaced my clutch
Good luck -------------------------------------------------
if you cant hold on dont let go , it ill come in handy for something even if you never use it.
D3 SE 05,
110 s wagon 300 tdi SOLD
h top transit
crew cab transit
transit connect
ausa dumper, muck truck .
peljob 2.5 digger
06 L 200 crew cab
Fit new Front & Rear Belts
Fit new oil pump casing
Consider replacing water pump
Check High Pressure Fuel Pump
Clean in-tank pump gauze
Carefully inspect the wiring for damage, and repair
Check EGRs & turbo & turbo pipes
Remove the turbo, fit new modified actuator rod. Take out the studs and drill the threads out to 8mm. Use 2x M8 flange bolts to refit. This aids future turbo removal.
If a manual clean XY sensor
Inspect & possibly replace cross over pipe
Check all suspension bushes & shims.
Steering tie rods.
Ball joints
Steering Column UJs
Body off makes no difference to the time to replace front lowers, but the rear uppers are 5 mins a side, as opposed to 2 hours with the body in place. If replacing consider upgrading to Advanced Factors kit.
Plenty of work there.
Good luck.
NJSSAm I Gammon or Woke ? - I neither know nor care.
2016 Discovery 4 Landmark
2011 Mercedes Benz SL350 (R230)
1973 MG B GT V8 - 3.9L John Eales engine, 5 speed R380 gearbox, since 1975.
1959 MGA roadster - 1.9L Peter Burgess Engine - 5 speed gearbox
Past LRs - Multiple FFRs, Discos & a Series I - some petrol, some diesel,
none Electric or H2 fuel cell - yet.
There are 10 types of people in this world: Those who understand binary, and those who don’t.
24th Dec 2015 9:34 am
woody32 Site Sponsor
Member Since: 11 Mar 2009
Location: Somerset
Posts: 3551
Worth replacing brake pipes rear mainly but all if you have time.
Yes I recommend applying electrical grease to all connectors done mine years ago and not had any issues.
Yes remove heater pipes at the bulkhead 2 pipes push fit so you need to squeeze the tabs in each side of the fitting to release.
Vacuum hose yes
Wiring at the back of the battery that's in mikeys write up.
Good luck I will be doing the same over the next couple of days Wanted D4s non runners pm for competitive price.
IID Pro MV License - D3/4 RRS - Enabling, Updates,Transmission flushing.
Mobile or workshop,PM for details.
24th Dec 2015 10:00 am
MGCarr
Member Since: 15 Jul 2014
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 703
what a way to spend Christmas, best of luck to both of you
1997 Defender 90 for the kids and I to have a go at some competitive off road RTV and Tyro trials, daughter picked up her first trophy over the August Bank Holiday.
Previous Land Rover history
1996 P38 4.6 V8 Autobiography
1996 Discovery TDi 300
1972 Range Rover 3.5 V8
LWB Hard Top Series 3
LWB Truck Cab Series 2A
Not been without a Land Rover for over 40 years - I must need therapy!
24th Dec 2015 11:16 am
defector
Member Since: 23 Feb 2009
Location: Greater Manchester
Posts: 1454
Thanks all for the info, yes i will be doing most of the work whilst the body is off, but my main priority is to get the engine out to see if it is rebuildable as it has crankshaft knocking - 08 MY so i presume it also had the defective oil pump.
If it's not possible i will be rooting around for an accident damaged Jaguar and replace the egine from that.
I'm hopeful it is rebuildable as crankshaft and bearings are freely available now and at reasonable prices.
24th Dec 2015 11:41 am
woody32 Site Sponsor
Member Since: 11 Mar 2009
Location: Somerset
Posts: 3551
If you manage to rebuild it dont forget to do the glow plugs and strip the oil filter housing and clean
And worth whipping anti roll bar bolts out and giving them a grease
Member Since: 23 Feb 2009
Location: Greater Manchester
Posts: 1454
Disconnected most of the wiring in the engine bay, went to move the Discovery to a ramp...........................it was in Park
Had to reconnect most things, connect a battery and eventually got it into neutral........phew.
Now on a two poster and taking a break for a couple of days.
Things are so accessible on the 2 post ramp, everything at a reasonable height to work at instead of crawling about on hands and knees
25th Dec 2015 3:29 am
defector
Member Since: 23 Feb 2009
Location: Greater Manchester
Posts: 1454
I have just remembered that as i will be removing the rear bumper tomorrow, i have a standard LR towbar fitted.
Will this have to be removed for removal of he bumper?
Unfortunately i do not have a key for this,so if it does require removal, can someone PM me a how to as i beleive that details are peer to peer only for security purposes.
Do i need to get my Makita and HSS drills ready
25th Dec 2015 8:47 pm
woody32 Site Sponsor
Member Since: 11 Mar 2009
Location: Somerset
Posts: 3551
No need to remove the towbar Wanted D4s non runners pm for competitive price.
IID Pro MV License - D3/4 RRS - Enabling, Updates,Transmission flushing.
Mobile or workshop,PM for details.
25th Dec 2015 8:51 pm
defector
Member Since: 23 Feb 2009
Location: Greater Manchester
Posts: 1454
Thanks, save a bit of time.
25th Dec 2015 9:10 pm
defector
Member Since: 23 Feb 2009
Location: Greater Manchester
Posts: 1454
Managed to get body off yesterday
Managed to put body onto trolley and wheeled away, the chassis and engine moved next to it for working on now. Thankfully ramp is now free.
28th Dec 2015 10:23 pm
Oswiperus D3 Decade
Member Since: 02 Apr 2010
Location: Chelmsford, Essex
Posts: 1597
Well done, I did my disco using Mikey's guide a couple of years ago, it's not as scary as you imagine is it.
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what a way to spend Christmas, best of luck to both of you 
