Member Since: 11 Dec 2012
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 97
Alternator Torque Settings
Having had the joy of the Battery Light coming on during the week, I've decided to take forum advice and replace the Alternator, Aux Belt and Tensioners before I toast the battery and potentially worse!
Got the usual great service from AF and got a new Denso unit and belt on Sat morning, having ordered it only 18 hrs before
Anyway, about to tackle the job and despite reading all the great write ups, I can't see anywhere, the torque settings for the 3 off Alternator mounting bolts or the Aux Belt tensioner mounting bolts
Hoping that somebody may be able to help me with these or confirm that tight will do
47Nm for all IIRC. Current: Discovery 3 06MY (55 reg) HSE Auto Zambezi Silver Allisport Fast Road Intercooler, V8 Brakes, Silicone IC Hoses, EGRs Blanked, Remapped, De-Cat pipe, FBHIC
Freelander 2 2007 HSE Manual Tambora Flame
Previous: FL2 56 reg SE Manual Black (written off )
Disco 3 06 reg B7S Manual Rimini Red
Disco 2 TD5 Y reg ES Manual Blue - Chipped
Several Discovery 300 TDis
24th Jan 2016 10:25 am
Jakeboy
Member Since: 11 Dec 2012
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 97
Awesome - thanks for the prompt reply
24th Jan 2016 10:35 am
tayaste
Member Since: 15 May 2013
Location: Chester
Posts: 7633
Good luck trying to get the torque readings from them. There's not much space there if going in from the top.
I use a flexi head ratchet spanner and just do them tight.
24th Jan 2016 10:37 am
Jakeboy
Member Since: 11 Dec 2012
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 97
Fair point, might explain why there is not much mention of them
47Nm or very tight, whichever come first then
24th Jan 2016 10:43 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20831
Member Since: 15 May 2013
Location: Chester
Posts: 7633
I'm sure you'll be fine.
24th Jan 2016 10:57 am
Jakeboy
Member Since: 11 Dec 2012
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 97
Managed to get Alternator, Aux Belt, Idler and Tensioner done on Sunday without too much grief, so thanks to all who helped on that front
I'm presuming the issue was due to the tensioner as below;
Only issue I now have is that I discovered about 0.7mm end float in the Power Steering Pump and I'm now wondering whether that had any contribution the whine that was accompanied by the battery warning light
Has anyone come across this before and am I looking at a new PSP in the very near future
There is no leak or noise from it and the steering feels fine so not sure if I'm getting concerned about nothing?
Any comments would be appreciated
Jason
25th Jan 2016 2:35 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20831
Member Since: 11 Dec 2012
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 97
DM to the rescue once again
Permagrin restored
25th Jan 2016 6:57 pm
rrhool
Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4516
I had the battery light on this morning, for about 3 miles, then it went out again? Had a new battery in October, Bosch Silver Dynamic, so that should be good still.
Is this the start of an alternator failing?Richard
D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.
Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone
25th Jan 2016 7:00 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 73063
Yes, get it sorted before it takes your battery out. If no diagnostics use the secret squirrel screen to watch the voltage output.
25th Jan 2016 7:05 pm
rrhool
Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4516
Thanks DSL, will do.
Has anyone tried rebuilding a Denso? I had a quick search online earlier and the brushes and rectifier packs are available.Richard
D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.
Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone
25th Jan 2016 7:18 pm
Jakeboy
Member Since: 11 Dec 2012
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 97
You could watch the screen or get a £2.99 digital voltmeter that plugs into the cigarette lighter socket and watch the voltage that way. In my case, it never went below 12.4v but I was waiting for it to drop further at which point, I was going to dive out, disconnect the battery and call recovery Not exactly the safest approach but it got me home
Not sure if my Alternator was actually at fault but at 9 years old, I considered myself lucky and better to err on the side of caution. As it turns out, the likely culprit was the tensioner in my case and may be worth checking on yours first. It is easy to change and is around £60 from AF.
As for the diode pack and brushes, I pulled my old one part to look at this and it seems fairly straightforward to replace, just 3 small screws and a small terminal which is crimped but easily released, to get the diode pack out and 2 small screws for the brush holder. Incidentally, my brushes were in reasonable condition, with plenty miles left on them even a 9 years old (although only 85k miles). I might do the diodes on mine to have a spare unit but depends on cost.
Might be worth a shot on yours first, if costs are reasonable- good luck
25th Jan 2016 8:10 pm
rrhool
Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4516
just been out to do an output test on the alternator:
Battery (engine off) 12.7V
Battery (engine idle - not loaded) 14.08V steady through the revs
Battery (loaded - lights heated screen seats etc) 12.4 and rapidly getting less!
Now permanent battery light!
Think I've 'fixed' it!
Ill be calling AF tomorrow.Richard
D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.
Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone
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tight will do 
Allisport Fast Road Intercooler, V8 Brakes, Silicone IC Hoses, EGRs Blanked, Remapped, De-Cat pipe, FBHIC
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