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cmb2020
Member Since: 08 Sep 2020
Location: Buckley, North Wales
Posts: 1150
  
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Currently trying to remove negative terminal to do parasitic drain test and the alarm goes off so the car goes out of sleep mode
Anyone able to advise how I can get it in sleep mode and then remove terminal without triggering alarm please? Disco 3 SE Manual 2005 V6 2.7
Buckley, North Wales
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 4th Oct 2022 1:25 pm |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10370
 
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you can't really do it with disconnecting the battery, as it will just draw loads of current on reconnection.
you need something like this to clamp around a battery cable.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165070564747?ep...R8TF6b_0YA
don't get anything cheaper as they don't seam to do DC current.
This claims to only measure down to 1A which isn't the best
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| 4th Oct 2022 6:18 pm |
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Flatlander
Member Since: 20 Jul 2015
Location: Here
Posts: 575
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Clamp ammeters are useless for quiescent current measurement, unless you're spending quite a lot of money, even then, they will drift over several hours on DC current.
On the Discovery 3 it's easier to break the circuit on the positive lead that supplies the BJB. Put one lead onto the +ve battery terminal and the other onto the 'tongue' of the cable lug that is bolted on to the battery terminal, then simply unfasten the bolt that holds the two together, making sure to put some insulating material between the battery terminal and the cable lug.
You should be looking for a reading of 40mA or less, there will be 'spikes' as the air suspension does it's self-levelling but it needs to be an average / mean (I forget which!) of <50mA, the longer you record the reading for, the more it will creep up due to the self-levelling function. Most trackers etc. have a maximum time of 11 hours between sending a 'hello' when they detect the vehicle is parked, so I would suggest you record the current draw for at least that.
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| 4th Oct 2022 6:51 pm |
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cmb2020
Member Since: 08 Sep 2020
Location: Buckley, North Wales
Posts: 1150
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Surely there is an easier way to diagnose the problem I have?
I don’t even know if it is a parasitic draw.
Old battery was saying low power mode
New battery now doesn’t say low power mode but throws up transmission and epb bongs that disappear Disco 3 SE Manual 2005 V6 2.7
Buckley, North Wales
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| 4th Oct 2022 6:58 pm |
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Flatlander
Member Since: 20 Jul 2015
Location: Here
Posts: 575
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Well you asked 'how to' so I gave you an answer!
Do you have RAC / AA membership? if so, get them out to test your battery after it's been stood overnight - the results from Halfords etc. are 'variable' at best and likely to be incorrect as you'll have driven there to get it tested so it will have recovered some charge level.
As I read it, you had a failing battery, which you replaced with another of unknown quality, age or condition - (don't call it 'new' it's misleading, it's just another battery.) but you still have problems, different problems, which also point to a battery issue. Get it tested, anything else is guesswork until that happens.
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| 4th Oct 2022 7:56 pm |
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cmb2020
Member Since: 08 Sep 2020
Location: Buckley, North Wales
Posts: 1150
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Tested in what was just a multimeter?
If so it was reading 12.6 after being stood all night
And 14.9 when running
It didn’t go below 10 when starting the engine Disco 3 SE Manual 2005 V6 2.7
Buckley, North Wales
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| 4th Oct 2022 8:01 pm |
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Flatlander
Member Since: 20 Jul 2015
Location: Here
Posts: 575
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No, tested with a battery tester - Midtronics or similar, a voltmeter will not have the sampling or display refresh rate to accurately determine the minimum voltage on cranking (unless you're spending decent money - mine cost me just over £300)
14.9VDC when running indicates a high PWM signal (generator feedback) so just starting the vehicle is depleting the battery significantly, probably due to the battery either being incorrect for the vehicle, or defective. As above, I suggest you get it tested, not just the terminal voltage read. Battery testers work by measuring the recovery time after a small load is applied as well as the recovery voltage, you can't do that with a multimeter - for one, you (and I) don't know the pass/fail parameters for each battery type & capacity.
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| 4th Oct 2022 8:10 pm |
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cmb2020
Member Since: 08 Sep 2020
Location: Buckley, North Wales
Posts: 1150
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It’s brand new out the box with terminal caps on
Charged prior to fitting
130ah 850cca
Brand Snappy Start Batteries Disco 3 SE Manual 2005 V6 2.7
Buckley, North Wales
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| 4th Oct 2022 8:33 pm |
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Flatlander
Member Since: 20 Jul 2015
Location: Here
Posts: 575
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That doesn't mean it can't have an internal defect. It needs to be tested - I can't understand your resistance to having it tested.
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| 4th Oct 2022 8:44 pm |
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cmb2020
Member Since: 08 Sep 2020
Location: Buckley, North Wales
Posts: 1150
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Just so much conflicting information from different sources gets confusing and frustrating
So far I’ve spent loads of money and time following advice given and feels like I’m further back than I was
Having to go back to a mechanic anyway after spending £110 may as well have just gone there on the first place Disco 3 SE Manual 2005 V6 2.7
Buckley, North Wales
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| 4th Oct 2022 10:04 pm |
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Flatlander
Member Since: 20 Jul 2015
Location: Here
Posts: 575
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'Snappy start' sounds like a bargain basement brand, if you had gone to a garage, then maybe you'd have paid a bit more but have got a first time fix - or at least some comeback if it didn't fix the issue.
Are you sure it's actually a starter battery, not a 'leisure battery' - i.e. a caravan battery, that you've bought?
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| 4th Oct 2022 10:25 pm |
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JMack
Member Since: 02 Aug 2014
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 1517
 
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cmb2020 wrote:It’s brand new out the box with terminal caps on
Charged prior to fitting
130ah 850cca
Brand Snappy Start Batteries
I can't see a battery meeting those specs on their website.
The only 130ah battery is listed as a leisure battery.
A search on here would have given recommendations for Tayna batteries. Here is their page for D3 spec batteries.[url] https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/types/019/ [/url] All but one cheaper than your Snappy.
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| 9th Oct 2022 2:48 pm |
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cmb2020
Member Since: 08 Sep 2020
Location: Buckley, North Wales
Posts: 1150
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Just updating on this:
Trying to figure out a long standing issue of low power mode. That stopped but now keep getting transmission fault and epb fault instead. Here’s the story so far:
Low power mode for about 9 months been ignored
Told it was battery by a friend. When recently trying to fix it.
Got a snappy battery brand 130ah 850cca brand new
No longer get low power mode warning but started getting transmission fault then a minute later another bong for epb not working. I’ve had this about 20 times always the same and in the same order of warning.
Loads of codes come up such as lost 12v connection to various modules
In my process of checking circuits. Had undone loads of old work such as rear row power supply, internal bulbs, and aux battery etc. In case one of these things was causing the problem. But still getting the warnings.
I then charged back to my old battery varta g14 and put it back in. It said 12.9 when charged via home, and stayed charged for few days out of the car prior to refit so I’m presuming it’s strong and healthy as well as being a good quality brand and having been the cars battery for 3 years.
Varta battery back in, but the transmission warning still comes up. And the low power mode hasn’t come back.
Been checking voltage every morning and night for 2 weeks. Getting 12.7 after driving in the day and by morning time it’s 12.3/12.4 Voltage never seems to be high enough.
Just done a proper test and the results are:
Cold engine 12.42
Ignition 2 clicks 12.03
Cranking lowest 10.07
Idle 14.65
Full beam, heaters and radio on 14.76
Does this give any clues?
Been told to do parasitic drain but then find it’s not possible to do as the alarm goes off soon as I disconnect the battery.
Warning comes up wether I use radio and heaters or not. Seems to be random times some days happens a few times then drives fine for a day or so.
Trying to avoid going mechanic as I can’t keep up with bills and at this point I’m adamant I need to fix myself now after all this effort I’m set on learning what it was.
I have a multimeter and tools etc
Wondering what could be the signs and hints here?
Have had codes read on a proper code reader and all live stats appear ok
Wondering if alternator or starter are next in line? If so how do I go about testing these is it a case of removing completely? Or just buy used denso brand with warranty and hope for the best? Or am I looking in the wrong place? Or do I just give up and go the indie?
Thanks in advance
Sorry it’s a long winded thread I am not good with electrics.
Tia Disco 3 SE Manual 2005 V6 2.7
Buckley, North Wales
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| 17th Oct 2022 2:17 pm |
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