Member Since: 28 Aug 2006
Location: Mid-sussex
Posts: 2021
4 Year Old D4 with split rubber end to drain
Just spent a few hours replacing the lower part of the near side front drain pipe. It looks like the pipe rubber end was split when it was fitted. Also signs that someone had tried to replace it before but got stuck removing the CJB. All good now. To save removing headlining we joined the old and new pipe half way down a pillar with a 12mm airline push fit connector.2005, TDV6 S, Auto, 190k miles, owned from new, V8 Brake Upgrade, Nancom Evo, RLD protector, BAS EGR blanking & Remap, separate ATF cooler, changing all the fluids ahead of time.
13th Aug 2019 2:00 pm
Gary_P
Member Since: 03 May 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 1651
Hi all
MY16 D4.
My passenger side footwell is soaked. I’m working in getting to the bottom of it. Learnt a lot from this forum yesterday and got some way to locating where the issue is, but need a bit of further help. There’s a lot of info regarding the D3 and unsure how much, what works for the D4.
Since I can push a lot (1.5m and still going) strimmer wire through the rubber tube in the passenger side wing vent I’m guessing it’s become detached from the elbow? The question is, what’s the best way to see what’s going on to the drain behind the inside of the wing vent cavity? Do I need to take the wheel arch liner off?
I’m slightly confused about some information I’ve seen about a tube that comes through inside the car down under the glove box. Is that on a D3 only? Do I need to check that too? Not sure how it is connected.
My other question is does the water just run into the wing vent cavity and then drip down through a hole Or is it channeled somewhere?
I have this strange wet sponge affair underneath the wing vent (photo in the topic link above) so obviously the water is getting into that currently.
Any assistance much appreciated, as always.
CheersGary
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Discovery 4 HSE 2016MY
27th Oct 2019 8:58 am
cestor
Member Since: 20 Sep 2010
Location: Israel
Posts: 160
pjm-84 wrote:
Just did mine today and I have massive hands.
The job took me around 4.5hrs all in (I replaced the pipe so had to drop the headlining) and I struggled on the sunvisor, glove box hinges and reinserting the tube end into the wing. Probably only took me about 30mins putting it all back together again and I didn't have any issues with the connectors, which I was dreading.
I followed the guidance on here. The items I thought were easy were not. I couldn't find the drain tube behind the cables (I also have a big head! ), and I found re-inserting the end of the drain into the wing awkward as space was tight .
I disconnected the battery once I had dropped the glove box.
If you replace the whole pipe rather than cutting and using the push-fit connector, how difficult is it to drop and replace the headlining? Is the headlining rigid or flexible? Do you need to take down the entire thing or can you just remove the mirrors, etc and pull it down a few inches?
15th Jan 2020 1:33 pm
Gary_P
Member Since: 03 May 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 1651
Hi cestor
I don't know the answer to your question but I wanted to let you know the following, in case it helps minimise the work for you.
On my D4 I pushed a new elbow onto the existing push fit connector which goes inside the pipe and elbow. I had considered using an external, new, connector that you push both ends of a cut pipe into but didn't in the end. Using the existing elbow connector worked well for me and I know has for other too.
Good luckGary
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Discovery 4 HSE 2016MY
15th Jan 2020 3:53 pm
Gazellio
Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Chilterns
Posts: 4130
Gary how did you get to the Pipe/Elbo?
I have the wet passenger carpet on a 2015 D4 HSE Luxury....
Further note: On newer cars it less likely the drains are blocked with gunk?
15th Jan 2020 6:00 pm
Gary_P
Member Since: 03 May 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 1651
Hi Gazellio
I documented my method and progress/tips/issues using this topic.
https://www.disco4.com/forum/passenger-sid...40-30.html
My car is a 2015 HSE (2016 MY).
If it is the drain hose, it is difficult to get access but doable by the removal of Central Junction Box (CJB).
It would be worth making sure it's nothing else first (is your headlining wet? have you run a strimmer cord down the pipe from the sunroof and through the outlet end - which is accessed via the side vent?).
Other things I read it could be is leaking from around the windscreen (top or scuttle).
So yes, cars not that old can suffer from the problem. They changed the oulet end of the hose (which is a rubber elbow) at some stage to remove a non return valve they had put on earlier cars and blockages are less likely, but worth doing the strimmer cord to check anyway. A split elbow was the cause of mine.
Happy to chip in with more info etc if required. I did quite a bit of reseach and got a lot of input via this forum, so happy share.
CheersGary
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Discovery 4 HSE 2016MY
15th Jan 2020 6:48 pm
Gazellio
Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Chilterns
Posts: 4130
Thanks will have a close look tomorrow and do the strimmer test. I have a wet passenger carpet and a few drips from the front centre interior light drain hole. Headlining is not particularly wet or stained.
I think its only happened since being parked slightly nose down (Was tail down) so it looks like the front passenger drain is at fault in some way. Hopefully just blocked at the entrance channel.
15th Jan 2020 7:13 pm
Gazellio
Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Chilterns
Posts: 4130
Update on mine: I checked the rear and drivers side drains and they all flow freely out under car. I used the strimmer check on the passenger side drain and it passed pretty much all the way down to the Elbo. O also used this metod in reverse and wire went in about 18" I assume to the elbo. I then used my compressor to blow air in both directions. Unfortunately none of this made any difference so I must assume the pipe is detached at the Elbo.
Its going in to my LR Indy to get a full new drain installed on Monday.
16th Jan 2020 1:42 pm
Gary_P
Member Since: 03 May 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 1651
Sounds like the elbow is split, which is common. My strimmer cord ended up poking out under my glove box so I knew there must be a split somewhere.
Parts are cheap, it’s all about the labour to do it. Hopefully they have some experience of doing it and know what they’re up against. Interested to know what method they use, if they are prepared to share.
Also worth checking the foam soundproofing in the bag in the wing vent cavity. It can get wet and need drying out and putting in a new sealed bag.
Keep us posted.
CheersGary
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Discovery 4 HSE 2016MY
Last edited by Gary_P on 16th Jan 2020 7:16 pm. Edited 1 time in total
16th Jan 2020 1:50 pm
Gazellio
Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Chilterns
Posts: 4130
16th Jan 2020 1:59 pm
dragonfly28
Member Since: 08 Jan 2012
Location: South Coast
Posts: 66
I had to do this on my previous D3 HSE and found the elbow had totally perished at the end. A horrible job, but achievable even by me, thanks to the threads on here. What a pain to get the fuse board back in!
As I almost never opened the sunroof (apart from to clear the drains...), I vowed no sunroof on the next car - hence the D4 XS.
2014 D4 XS
2006 D3 HSE - sold
1999 Defender 110 CSW TD5 - sold
24th Jan 2020 4:42 pm
Gazellio
Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Chilterns
Posts: 4130
Gazellio @ Prestige Cars wrote:
Update on mine: I checked the rear and drivers side drains and they all flow freely out under car. I used the strimmer check on the passenger side drain and it passed pretty much all the way down to the Elbo. O also used this method in reverse and wire went in about 18" I assume to the elbo. I then used my compressor to blow air in both directions. Unfortunately none of this made any difference so I must assume the pipe is detached at the Elbo.
Its going in to my LR Indy to get a full new drain installed on Monday.
Update the drain pipe was split so not the elbo this time. I had gallons of water in the dense foam sound proofing under the carpet Its taken several days of dehumidifier/electric oil radiator and fan to dry it out.!
24th Jan 2020 5:48 pm
cestor
Member Since: 20 Sep 2010
Location: Israel
Posts: 160
Not a huge amount to add except that dropping the front of the headlining enough to replace the drain tube is trivial in comparison to the cjb effort. Torx in a pillar is t30.
Replacing cjb rear connectors is horrible. It's taken me longer than everything else combined so far and still can't get them in. Actually I did get the green one in but realised that it then made replacing the orange one impossible so had to take it out again to do the orange one first. Having a break currently...
29th Jan 2020 2:50 pm
Gareth Site Moderator
Member Since: 07 Dec 2004
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 26769
Glad this thread is still helping people. Can I add this. I have found using silicone spray has aided reconnecting difficult plugs. You will still have to line them up, but it will help it slide and lock. Don’t use too much, and try and keep it off your fingers.
29th Jan 2020 3:23 pm
cestor
Member Since: 20 Sep 2010
Location: Israel
Posts: 160
Good idea - will try it -thanks. Problem now is that cjb won't go up the whole way. Maybe the drain pipe is blocking it...
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), and I found re-inserting the end of the drain into the wing awkward as space was tight .
