Member Since: 27 Oct 2019
Location: Somerset
Posts: 47
Hi All!
So i've had a good read through this topic...
I have a D3 2006 HSE and i'm keen on getting ACC fitted, and from what I have seen its possible?
From what I have read I need a:
Radar sensor: Delphi 4R83-9G768-AA for a 06-09 age car
ACC ECU: NNW501922 again 06-09 age car
Centre console switch: YUL500320WUX
and the steering wheel switch: XPD500850
I can find a part number for the plug that attaches to the radar module: YPC801300 which is available
and there is a part number for the ECU plug: YPC109860 but I cant find any available, not that it's completely necessary.
other than this i would need a bracket to mount the radar (does it have to be mounted to the RHS below the crash bar or can it be put centrally behind the front grill?)
And various wires to connect it to the car's ECU's
and I have an IID tool to configure the CCF, but I have only seen one option to change where as I have seen there need to be 7/8 different things enabled? Do i need to contact GAP for a more detailed CCF menu?
Am I missing anything before I bite the bullet and buy the bits?
26th Aug 2022 9:41 pm
Dondiddy
Member Since: 26 Dec 2019
Location: Hamilton
Posts: 307
I have fitted it to a later Disco and it is much easier to do on them as there are less parts needed and the wiring is already in place on the later years. Pat at GAP was a great help when I did mine and yes you do need to contact him to get the full CCF list that includes the extra listings that you need to change. He will also need you to send him your ecu info so that the can get you the correct info should you need to reflash the ACC ecu in order to get it to work. Good luck!
27th Aug 2022 7:44 pm
Ollie795
Member Since: 27 Oct 2019
Location: Somerset
Posts: 47
Ok thanks, I’ve bought all the bits that I should hopefully need! Came to £187 from eBay!
Out of curiosity I see in fanscescor75’s post that the radar pokes out in-front of the bumper, is it possible to mount it elsewhere? And can it go behind plastic or does it have to have complete line of sight?
Was thinking ideal place would be behind the upper front grill, either behind it or maybe cut to fit the grill so it looks kinda factory fit? Or does it have to be mounted towards the side so it calibrates properly?
Pic of where i was thinking of mounting it…
3rd Sep 2022 12:19 pm
Dondiddy
Member Since: 26 Dec 2019
Location: Hamilton
Posts: 307
Can only confirm this for the D4 (which uses a combined radar/ecu) but yes it will work behind the plastic bumper. Also I would have thought centre mounted would be best to avoid any issues when over taking cars in the L/H lane when the ecu might thin the car was somehow in your path and slow down accordingly!
3rd Sep 2022 2:41 pm
co77on
Member Since: 03 Dec 2018
Location: Somerset
Posts: 5
co77on wrote:
2012 RRS L320.
ACC hardware fitted. 1st try CCF settings gathered. Hope to test very soon...
On my first CCF edit the other week I just got ‘cruise not available’. 😢.
I just tried some different settings today and ACC now seemed to work on the way home; it would track and keep back from the car in front, I could set the distance gap and got a forward alert when too close. I haven’t done the calibration yet. I’ve got to do ~500 motorway and A road miles this week so will give it good test and properly report back but looks very positive. 👍L320 RRS HSE SDV6 (2012)
+ Retrofit High Beam Assist (HBA)
+ Retrofit Cornering Lamps
+ Retrofit Timed Climate and Park Heat
+ Retrofit Tyre Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS)
+ Retrofit Towing 13pin
+ Retrofit Adaptive Cruise Control (ACC) with Forward Alert
+ Aftermarket CarPlay (OEM screen)
+ Aftermarket remote tailgate close (self made module)
12th Sep 2022 9:01 pm
Ollie795
Member Since: 27 Oct 2019
Location: Somerset
Posts: 47
Anyone know how to identify what type of pin I need for connectors? Tried crimping on some that I had in a kit but they don’t hold in to the plug pictured, is there an easy way of identifying the right pins?
19th Sep 2022 9:28 am
co77on
Member Since: 03 Dec 2018
Location: Somerset
Posts: 5
co77on wrote:
co77on wrote:
2012 RRS L320.
ACC hardware fitted. 1st try CCF settings gathered. Hope to test very soon...
On my first CCF edit the other week I just got ‘cruise not available’. 😢.
I just tried some different settings today and ACC now seemed to work on the way home; it would track and keep back from the car in front, I could set the distance gap and got a forward alert when too close. I haven’t done the calibration yet. I’ve got to do ~500 motorway and A road miles this week so will give it good test and properly report back but looks very positive. 👍
Adaptive Cruise Control (ACC)
So after a few weeks and hundreds of miles I think I can say I’ve successfully retrofitted Adaptive Cruise Control (ACC) with Forward Alert to my 2012 L320 RRS. This is my L320 experience summary that may be applicable to other models…
ACC monitors the road for vehicles in front to keep you at a set distance up to your specified cruising speed and Forward Alert tells you if an object is detected close ahead. Later cars can also have a queue assist (beta???) setting where the car will crawl along in traffic even coming to a stop.
From research there are different ACC fits depending on the year (2005-09, 2010-11 and 2012-13) for the L320 RRS. The physical fit for my 2012 comprised of the sensor (slim version), the applicable sensor bracket, 2 bolts and the ACC steering wheel switchpack. A CCF edit is also needed and once activated the calibration procedure should be run. 2010-11 cars need an additional ACC control module, ACC control module bracket, the ‘fat’ version of the sensor and a few extra bolts. 2005-09 cars need similar to the 10-11 cars (obviously the steering wheel controls are the pre-facelift ones) plus an additional dash switchpack with the Forwards Alert button (later cars do this function with software). Not all cars will be pre-wired but the wiring isn’t that complicated if needed.
As my 2012 was prewired the physical fit was just a matter of taking the bumper off to fit the module (get the X, Y and Z axis as level as possible) then replacing steering wheel switchpack with one that has the extra ACC buttons. To swap the steering wheel switchpack you need an airbag removal tool but once that’s off I managed to change the switchpack by just having the wheel rotated 90degreees so no need to fully remove it. Then I just had to modify the CCF (my new 2012 values are below) and run the ACC calibration procedure. Once the calibration procedure is started the orange ‘follow mode’ dash symbol will flash till the procedure is complete which may take some miles to do but mine did it in ~7-8 miles. Don’t use cruise during the calibration procedure. Once the orange dash symbol stops flashing turn the car off, wait 1/2min and then restart and you should be good to go. Once fitted the Forward Alert feature is turned on/off using the car’s dash set-up menu option or the dash button in older cars. My CCF edit and calibration was done with my GAP IID BT Tool (s/w updated to latest version with the ‘Untested CCF fields’ unlocked).
The parts involved can be rare and costly but by waiting for some eBay and FB bargains it cost me about £160. I got the sensor from FB (always use PayPal non friends and family!!!) for £100 and it amazingly came with the bracket which I wasn’t expecting. The steering wheel switchpack was about £50 off ebay. The airbag removal tool was about £8 on ebay. The bolts were pennies from ebay. I already had the GAP IID BT Tool so didn’t factor that in.
My initial feedback is I honestly prefer the setup in my Lexus as you can turn ACC off to just have standard cruise whereas in the RRS it’s all or nothing where fitted. Also my Lexus has a ‘BMW’ follow mode where I’d be happy to trust that car sitting an inch off the followed vehicle’s bumper whereas the RRS seems to sit just a little too far back for me on the narrowest setting but as it’s a LR product perhaps that’s a good thing…lol. That being said the positives are its ACC!; easy driving, safer driving, optional extra now ticked etc… I’ve done a good amount of motorway, A-road and town miles with it on now and I don’t think I’ll be deactivating it. I’ve found driving a lot easier and relaxing with ACC. Some say it isn’t that great and gets confused when passing vehicles but I’ve found it fine in that situation. I have found, as the manual mentions, it can give you sudden bursts of speed on corning A/B roads when the followed vehicle disappears around abend. I think if you just remember that even the later fit is now 10yr old tech and that it’s not full Tesla Self Drive so just keep aware when using it you’ll be fine.
My 2012 Tools:
• Airbag removal tool.
• Various standard screwdrivers and sockets.
• CCF editor (ie GAP IID BT Tool)
My 2012 CCF settings:
• Speed Control (1*): Adaptive speed control is fitted
• Speed Control (2*): Adaptive speed control with queue assist
• Speed Control (3*): Adaptive speed control, stop and go
• Standard Speed Control Display Type: Adaptive speed control full display plus priority messages
• Adaptive Cruise Control Indication in Instrument Cluster: Enabled
• Front Crash Sensing System: Front Crash Sensing System - Upfront Sensor
• Forward Collision Warning: Forward collision warning GEN 1
• Collision Mitigation by Braking (1*): Fitted
• Collision Mitigation by Braking (2*): Collision mitigation by braking GEN 1
• Adaptive Speed Control ECU (1*): UK/Rest of the world
• Adaptive Speed Control ECU (2*): Standard Blockage Level -40dB
The Adaptive Speed Control ECU fields were already set in mine. If your car doesn’t support Queue Assist then perhaps try changing the ‘Speed Control (2*)’ and ‘Speed Control (3*)’ values to just ‘Adaptive Speed Control’ or similar… As Queue Assist worked in mine I haven’t bothered fiddling with other values yet.
*Field numbering is just as per the default display order on GAP IID screen
Now on to the next retrofit; perhaps RSE, 360cams or dual view….
[/url]L320 RRS HSE SDV6 (2012)
+ Retrofit High Beam Assist (HBA)
+ Retrofit Cornering Lamps
+ Retrofit Timed Climate and Park Heat
+ Retrofit Tyre Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS)
+ Retrofit Towing 13pin
+ Retrofit Adaptive Cruise Control (ACC) with Forward Alert
+ Aftermarket CarPlay (OEM screen)
+ Aftermarket remote tailgate close (self made module)
the physical fit was just a matter of taking the bumper off to fit the module
You might be thankful of that ... according to our local social media pages, there have been several Mercs that have had the big front badge nicked ... complete with the electronics which sit behind it. And it's not £160 to replace !
28th Sep 2022 1:18 pm
co77on
Member Since: 03 Dec 2018
Location: Somerset
Posts: 5
Ouch...
I'm sure my Lexus has the sensor behind the grille protected by some transparent plastic. In my RRS its hidden behind the central budge of the bumper - 100% bumper off job; easy enough but takes time to dismantle.
Those sensors are currently listed as £1,859.70 from the MD so you suddenly see how even light front end crashes can be costly and why some thieves have seen an 'opportunity' . I know I got some bargains on used parts for this job L320 RRS HSE SDV6 (2012)
+ Retrofit High Beam Assist (HBA)
+ Retrofit Cornering Lamps
+ Retrofit Timed Climate and Park Heat
+ Retrofit Tyre Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS)
+ Retrofit Towing 13pin
+ Retrofit Adaptive Cruise Control (ACC) with Forward Alert
+ Aftermarket CarPlay (OEM screen)
+ Aftermarket remote tailgate close (self made module)
28th Sep 2022 1:53 pm
Ollie795
Member Since: 27 Oct 2019
Location: Somerset
Posts: 47
Well I can confirm it works! and with an added bonus no need to cut the bumper on a D3
Heres what I did....
Ordered the following parts:
Radar sensor: Delphi 4R83-9G768-AA for a 06-09 age car
ACC ECU: NNW501922 again 06-09 age car
Centre console switch: YUL500320WUX
and the steering wheel switch: XPD500850
All the wiring is 0.5mm I decided to follow land rovers colour scheme to keep it easy to follow
I made a wiring diagram although there are some on here further back in the thread
I decided to mount the ECU in the auxiliary battery tray using a 3D printed bracket:
I tapped into the high speed can bus on the ABS loom, bit of a fiddle but it was the shortest run
Then ran the cable for the forward alert facia switch, there is a grommet to the right of the brake servo, I made a hole through the firewall insulation from the engine bay then pulled the wire through with a bit of copper wire
Then I replaced the facia panel with the one with the forward already switch, had to swap the face place from another discovery that had the extra button space
Next was fitting the steering wheel switch pack, easy job if you have the airbag removal tool, I managed to make one my self
Then it was on to the loom, I wanted to make it removable incase any work was required and it was in the way so the fuses can easily be removed in the engine fuse box, and the ecu end of the loom has a separate 9 pin plug that detaches from the ecu/hs can bus/FA switch
It’s just one big loop around the front of the engine bay
Then the final piece to fit was the radar, having seen where it was originally fitted on the Range Rover sport I wasn’t overly keen on cutting the bumper, but then I found this picture:
On the jaguar it’s mounted behind the bumper which got me thinking that maybe it can sit behind the grill…
So I made another 3D bracket for the radar and utilised the 2 holes in the crash bar:
Took a bit of measuring but it fit first time!
Once it was all plugged in I connected the IID tool initially I had a radar CAN bus fault, after rechecking everything I realised I had the wires the wrong way round!
Once that was fixed I enabled some options in the extended CCF file, you’ll need to ask Patrick at GAP for the full access…
I went to calibrate the cruise control but initially the option wasn’t there, an update of the IID tool fixed that, then I kept getting an error when trying to activate the calibration, again Patrick & team to the rescue with a beta version of software and the calibration started with the adaptive cruise control light flashing, after a 7 mile drive on the twisty Somerset roads the light went out, ignition off for 15 seconds, started back up and just like that I have adaptive cruise control!
26th Jan 2023 7:46 pm
dvans
Member Since: 20 Nov 2014
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 31
Awesome! I've been following this thread on and off and collecting the various bits needed.
Any issues with how it is working for you? And would you be willing to share the designs for the two brackets?
28th Feb 2023 6:43 pm
Allan Buus
Member Since: 13 Mar 2023
Location: Hobro
Posts: 1
Who can install it?
Are there any workshops offering to retrofit the complete instalment for an LR3 that you know of?
13th Mar 2023 2:36 pm
dvans
Member Since: 20 Nov 2014
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 31
I now have this working in my 2006 D3.
Parts:
ACC ECU NNW501923
ACC Radar NNW502350
Switch Panel YUL500860WUX
D4 Steering wheel with BBS boards
Bracket 3d printed from Ollie795's design
Needed full access to the CCF - enabled by Pat @ GAP - then just 3 options to set.
Mine is occasionally tracking vehicles in adjacent lane (left), so need to double check the alignment. My gap increase / decrease buttons also aren't working. Other than that though it is working really well.
Thanks for all the guides and details in this thread!
14th May 2023 10:56 pm
LR4USN
Member Since: 20 Aug 2011
Location: FL
Posts: 18
Great write-up and information...
Need to find details for my D4 Lux as I'd like to have this feature, I had it on a previous D4.
Plus surround cameras as well.
Thanks to all the testers on here to make it a bit easier for the rest of the LR pack!
19th Jun 2023 11:47 pm
Parody
Member Since: 02 Mar 2014
Location: Kent
Posts: 34
I'm currently researching doing this. I have a MY2010 (59 plate) D4. I assume I don't have the pre-wiring so fall in that gap between. I can't figure out if I need to get the newer D4 parts (radar+ecu in one unit) and do some additional ECU wiring, or the the older parts (separate radar/ecu) and follow the D3 wiring minus the switch panel... or quite what?
Does anyone know? I see some saying it's not possible to do at all on the 2010/2011, but others at least part pay through doing just that. Hard to follow between this and other threads/forums on the same.
....
I've found the gap website mentions that it should be possible but follow the l322 process, and re-reading this whole thread I see that the interior FA switch can just be omitted https://www.gap-diagnostic.com/faq/
The parts I can get for around £100 it seems so I'm going to have a go and I'll report back the result, because I can't find evidence of it being done on this MY.
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. I know I got some bargains on used parts for this job 
