Today's project has been to change the fuel filter and diff oils. I took a few pictures along the way, which may be of interest to some. I know some people have posted fuel filter advice before, but a few more pics can't hurt
Starting off with the fuel filter, which is on a MY05 TDV6. The filter is a different type for MY07 on, AFAIK.
After removing the panels underneath (engine and gearbox), the fuel filter is easy to see, roughly under the drivers seat (RHD models).
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On top of the filter are 4 push on connectors, which are removed by pressing in the coloured button (blue and yellow visible here) and sliding off the filter:
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They come off fairly easily:
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Then the filter can be removed from the bracket - just loosen the securing bolt:
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The fuel line connectors stay in roughly the same place once removed, so as long as you fit the new filter the same way around it's quite easy to work out which connector goes on which port of the filter:
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The top of the new Denso filter (cost me about £10 off ebay):
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Slide the connectors onto the new filter - they 'click' into position, and 2 were secured with an additional plastic clip as seen here:
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New filter in place, almost done! Make sure the water drain at the bottom of the filter is shut.
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All that needs to be done now is the fuel bleed:
Take off the engine cover and you will find a small valve at the rear of the engine:
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Take the cap off (be careful not to drop it!) and place an absorbent cloth around it to soak up any diesel:
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Then turn on the ignition until the dash lights come on, but don't start the engine. Press the centre of the valve (like a car tyre valve) to allow fuel to flow out - there is very little pressure so after the initial flow you need to turn the ignition off and on again to run the pump again. After doing this a few times some air will purge out - not much, and will probably clear after another 3 or 4 ignition cycles / valve presses. I filled up the new filter with fuel before fitting it, so that might have reduced the amount of air. Once the bleed is complete, replace the plastic cap and engine cover, and start the engine
edit - 10forcash has posted this comment in another thread, which may be useful: "Filling the fuel filter is quite easy and doesn't need the LP bleed procedure above...
fit filter, turn on ignition for 40 seconds, turn off ignition, turn on for 40 seconds another 4 times, start engine & run for 2 minutes - applies to <07MY and 07MY onwards
if it's relatively quiet, you can hear the in-tank pump running, the air is pushed out to the return line, not to the engine
also, when fitting the <07MY filter, make sure you hear the pipe fittings click into place on the filter"
I followed that procedure, and still got some air out of the bleed valve. It would have probably found it's way back into the tank if I'd not bled it, not sure.Previously:
2005 D3 2.7 TDV6 S
1984 90 2.25 Petrol CSW
1992 90 200TDi Hard Top
1995 Discovery ES 300TDi
2003 90 TD5 Truck Cab
Last edited by ridgeback_moor on 17th Mar 2009 10:11 am. Edited 1 time in total
14th Mar 2009 1:41 pm
MacLeod 313
Member Since: 18 Apr 2008
Location: away
Posts: 10723
Well done that man, a job made much easier with pictorial evidence. Much appreciated
I used 2 ramps, and off road height, which gave plenty of access room underneath. Just watch out when the vehicle decides to 'self level' as mine dropped by about 1-2" whilst I was underneath
Starting with the front differential, you need to find the filler plug which site about half way up on the left hand side. It's an 8mm hex socket. I gave it a wire brushing before removal to reduce the chance of any dirt getting into the diff housing.
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It will probably be quite stiff, but will budge...
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Then onto the drain plug, which is near the bottom of course ...
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You need a 14mm hex drive to remove the drain plug - I got mine from Halfords for about £4...
(edit - newer vehicles have a 3/8 square hole in the drain plugs - from MY06 I think)
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About 0.6 ltr of the nicest smelling oil will run out of the diff once the drain plug is removed, so have the tray/bowl ready. Maybe I'm strange, but i love the smell of diff oil
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This is what came out (at 85k miles) - the bits were already in the bowl, not from the diff!
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The drain plug is magnetic, to trap all the ferrous particles and reduce wear. There's quite a lot of it...
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Cleaned up.....
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Once the oil oil has drained out, replace the drain plug. I didn't use a torque wrench, just did it up tight
The specified diff oil is Castrol SAF XO - I got it from Opie Oils (site member Oilman) for £12.64 / litre
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The front diff takes 0.61 ltrs, so I measured it out. Hopefully SWMBO won't notice I used her new measuring jug
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I tried to squirt the new oil into the filler plug straight from the bottle, but there's not really enough room to move the bottle, so I used a length of clean plastic pipe and tipped the oil down it. A funnel would have been useful, but I used the top off one of the oil bottles, and routed the pipe out above the nearside front wheel. It took about 5 minutes to slowly pour the oil into the pipe, constantly checking the other end was still in the diff filler hole.
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Once it's filled (by amount, not level apparently), replace the filler plug and check for leaks.
The onto the rear one........Previously:
2005 D3 2.7 TDV6 S
1984 90 2.25 Petrol CSW
1992 90 200TDi Hard Top
1995 Discovery ES 300TDi
2003 90 TD5 Truck Cab
Last edited by ridgeback_moor on 8th May 2011 8:08 pm. Edited 1 time in total
The rear diff is almost the same as the front, just with more oil in it (1.1 ltrs service fill), and the filler plug is harder to find!
Again, start by removing the filler plug (8mm hex again). On the rear diff it's on the right hand side of the diff...
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Then the drain plug....
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More nice smelling oil - quite a lot more than the front....
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and plenty of ferrous gubbins again...
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Replace the cleaned drain plug and fill with 1.1 ltrs of new SAF XO
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Refit the filler plug, check for leaks, job done Previously:
2005 D3 2.7 TDV6 S
1984 90 2.25 Petrol CSW
1992 90 200TDi Hard Top
1995 Discovery ES 300TDi
2003 90 TD5 Truck Cab
14th Mar 2009 6:20 pm
wiggs
Member Since: 03 Sep 2006
Location: Manchester
Posts: 14372
Excellent write ups there G4 Gone ...but not forgotten
14th Mar 2009 6:46 pm
SJR
Member Since: 09 Aug 2006
Location: East Manchester
Posts: 4030
RM
Fantastic write ups, very clear
You need to get it on the wiki area, even if it is only a link to this post I believe that every human has a finite number of heart-beats. I don't intend to waste any of mine running around doing exercises.
Buzz Aldrin (1930 -
14th Mar 2009 11:35 pm
chesters
Member Since: 03 Oct 2005
Location: The Toon
Posts: 698
Fantastic job, Well Done. Arctic Frost Discovery 3 TDV6 SE, Active Rear Diff, Adaptive Head Lights, Tow Pack, Ebony Leather, Roof Rails, Mantec Guard. Tasmod Stainless Sill plates. Grabber AT's. Home made mud flaps. Side Steps back on until the next time.
15th Mar 2009 8:11 am
DiscoDunc
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
Excellant job Duncan
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If I'd known I was going to be so thirsty this morning I'd have drunk more beer last night.
FFRR Autobiography 4.4 SDV8 MY17
D4 HSE MY13 SOLD
FFRR 3.6 Vogue TDV8 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D4 SE TECH MY15 SOLD
D4 XS MY12 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D3 HSE MY06 - Re-Cycled Worldwide
15th Mar 2009 9:36 am
matt_tdv6
Member Since: 04 Feb 2009
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 937
Always take the fill plug out before the drain plug....I like your style
I was taught that when i was an apprentice in the unlikely event you couldnt get the plug undone (Common on tractor axles) at least it had oil in until you could get the new plug before you butchered it out
Same here Matt - did an apprenticeship too and learnt the proper way
Also, by removing the fill plug first, the oil drains faster and carries more debris with it (if there is any).
If someone can put it on the wiki for me that would be great - I followed all the steps posted earlier this year and still couldn't log in to contribute I'm on the list of people authorised to add to the wiki, but just couldn't log in.
This mornings project was to remove the Electronic Throttle housing (the part that the butterfly valve sits in) and clean it out. I've chopped down the pipes that feed the EGR recirc gas into the inlet system, so there's no part of it protruding into the inlet system, and cleaned out most of the carbon deposits from within the throttle assembly. I didn't realise it was so easy to get that assembly out -1 clip and 2 bolts, and it slides out of the 2 inlet manifolds. Pics and details to follow later - off out to the beach again as it's like mid summer in Devon today Previously:
2005 D3 2.7 TDV6 S
1984 90 2.25 Petrol CSW
1992 90 200TDi Hard Top
1995 Discovery ES 300TDi
2003 90 TD5 Truck Cab
Fuel filter bleed procedure edited (in 1st post) to include 10forcash comments in another thread. May not be necessary to bleed using the engine bay valve apparently, although I prefer to anyway.Previously:
2005 D3 2.7 TDV6 S
1984 90 2.25 Petrol CSW
1992 90 200TDi Hard Top
1995 Discovery ES 300TDi
2003 90 TD5 Truck Cab
17th Mar 2009 10:13 am
J6BXR
Member Since: 20 May 2009
Location: Ayrshire
Posts: 17
excellent instructions anyone got changing auto transmission oil?
cheers
John
1st Jun 2009 7:45 am
Tawny Owl
Member Since: 22 Oct 2008
Location: Here and there
Posts: 1645
RM ,
Great write up , thanks for taking the time to take all the pics whilst doing the job
Definately one for Wiki
I did my diffs and replaced the fuel filter on Boxing day. Followed the destructions and it all went well.
I bought my disco with 52000 km on it. It now has 112000......
Front Diff:
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Looks like a bit of an oil leak... Apparently this is normal for a LR. ... There was very little swarf on the plug...
Oil analysis of front diff oil with a 0.8micron patch paper and 100x magnification:
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Looks to show good wear
Rear Diff
not sure if this is a leak?
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A lot of swarf on plug:
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Oil analysis of rear diff oil with a 0.8micron patch paper and 100x magnification:
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The brown bits are old corroded bits of metal with the shiny bits are recent
Apparently the rear diff is not to bad considering it age..... It seems the oil has been replace on the front looking at its condition.......
I have gear oil left over so i will replace the rear diff oil again when i change the oil next
JD
1st Jan 2010 5:31 am
Grahjam
Member Since: 08 Feb 2010
Location: Warrington
Posts: 41
Good pods, which I found after I came across a suspected leak on my front diff. Just done it following your instructions, only difference I came across which was a bit strange, was the drain plug was a 3/8th square (mines an 06 plate). Gave me a bit of a problem as I had bought the 14mm hex and did n't have the other size to hand. I also measured the oil that drained out which was 400ml, so guess my suspected leak is there. Will probably do it again in a couple of month to see how much oil its loosing before I consider replacing the oil seals.
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tight 
... There was very little swarf on the plug...
