Member Since: 30 Jan 2019
Location: Frinton On Sea,Essex
Posts: 36
That’s really interesting, I have almost convinced myself that it could be a shock going stiff,the only problem I had was that my problem is intermittent,sometimes I can drive a few miles before it starts to feel hard and it can be progressive ,starts off feeling firmer the can go to really quiet hard
17th Nov 2022 7:35 pm
robrs
Member Since: 30 Jan 2019
Location: Frinton On Sea,Essex
Posts: 36
I have also suspected shocks but I the only problem I have is that my problem is intermittent, I can sometimes drive a few miles before it starts to feel firm and progressively get’s harder. You would think that a shock is either ok or not.He suggested the cross over valve but I think that’s only supposed to open in rock crawl mode
17th Nov 2022 7:45 pm
Jagbusa
Member Since: 02 Nov 2022
Location: Costa del Blackpool
Posts: 37
Maybe yours has the cross over valve issue if that's what it's called, which might explain why it is intermittent, sometimes the valve operates correctly, other times not so. I believe that valve is what links the two sides of the car, one in the front block, one in the rear, and if it isn't operating correctly the pressure generated in the shock when you hit a bump has nowhere to go and so manifests itself as pressure in that leg (harder suspension), I am sure a much wiser person will correct that if it's incorrect.
If the weather is better this weekend, I might start rebuilding mine a block at a time till I have them all done, I also need to rebuild my pump as I have an error that it doesn't exhaust correctly, which I believe is due to blocked desiccant in the air drier of the pump.
I agree a shock would normally be good or bad not sometimes good, sometimes bad, but nothing would surprise me lol.
I will keep you posted, hopefully it will fix it all
Steve2009my Discovery 3 2.7V6 HSE
17th Nov 2022 8:27 pm
robrs
Member Since: 30 Jan 2019
Location: Frinton On Sea,Essex
Posts: 36
Hi,did you get to the bottom of the hard suspension,I checked my cross over valve and they only open at slow speed over very bumpy ground
4th Apr 2023 4:35 pm
Jagbusa
Member Since: 02 Nov 2022
Location: Costa del Blackpool
Posts: 37
Actually I thought I had. Whilst fitting a Terrafirma Spare Wheel Carrier over the weekend, bumper has to come off and lots of wiring around back left rear light is disconnected ( Trailer electrics). I found 3 or 4 can't remember exactly, wires that had rubbed through to copper on the harmonic balancer and were occasionally shorting out. I repaired these and once job was complete I fired her up, cleared all the codes, and voila, no more suspension light, going up and down like it should and riding more like a vehicle on air bags should do. The only error to come back and I had a selection including dash bus, lost connection with transmission controller or something, anyway all sorts of different ones, but the only one to come back was suspension. Haven't plugged back in yet but it will clear by ignition and stay off shall we say generally. The ride is as it should be, no more crashing over bumps.
I have bought a new pump and I am going to fit that and rebuild the old one that I found out was replaced 5 years ago along with rebuilding all the valve blocks. Check your wires!!! I will be checking the ones under the o/s (right hand side) front arch moulding when I do the valve block there just in case, but so much better.
I will try to share piccies.
2009my Discovery 3 2.7V6 HSE
4th Apr 2023 7:14 pm
robrs
Member Since: 30 Jan 2019
Location: Frinton On Sea,Essex
Posts: 36
Nice one good find, I can’t believe mine is that because I have no warning lights on and the gap tool is not picking up anything
5th Apr 2023 5:30 pm
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8103
Jagbusa: well done, it really is tight getting the towing cable through there.
Simple test is to unplug the trailer wiring, easily accessed through the left rear bottom locker in the boot. It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
5th Apr 2023 5:37 pm
Jagbusa
Member Since: 02 Nov 2022
Location: Costa del Blackpool
Posts: 37
M3DPO - Thanks but I didn't have to thread it out, that is the left hand side as you look at the rear of the car and the plugs on the end of that, plug into the block behind the rear light. Just wondering now, are they supposed to be inside the boot where you say or do they just connect inside and out?
I was fitting a spare wheel carrier and had to take the bumper off which is how I found it, I wasn't looking for a trailer fault, that was just an annoyance for me in fault codes as I don't tow at the moment, just a lucky find that helped with other errors.2009my Discovery 3 2.7V6 HSE
5th Apr 2023 7:13 pm
Aristarkhov
Member Since: 03 Jan 2016
Location: Tambov
Posts: 12
robrs wrote:
Nice one good find, I can’t believe mine is that because I have no warning lights on and the gap tool is not picking up anything
I've been struggling with the same problem for several years now. Everything is new on the suspension, new valve blocks, a new compressor. All wiring has been checked inside and out. No result
Sorry for my english)
10th Apr 2023 10:42 pm
Jagbusa
Member Since: 02 Nov 2022
Location: Costa del Blackpool
Posts: 37
Sorry for my english)
Aristarkhov I wish my Russian was as good as your English
What tyres and pressures do you have?2009my Discovery 3 2.7V6 HSE
11th Apr 2023 9:35 am
robrs
Member Since: 30 Jan 2019
Location: Frinton On Sea,Essex
Posts: 36
Hi,when you say that everything is new does that include shocks/air struts?.I’m nearly at the point of trying new shocks
11th Apr 2023 6:08 pm
Aristarkhov
Member Since: 03 Jan 2016
Location: Tambov
Posts: 12
Yes, these are new original shock absorbers, complete with pillows, new original valves, new Hitachi compressor, new height sensors. Don't waste your money, it won't help you. I have spent a lot of money and no results. I have changed everything related to the suspension, changed the suspension unit itself. I think the problem is somewhere at the level of software. In Russia, lots of Land Rovers with this problem. On the Land Rover profile forum, the topic is several years, and about 200 pages. But the problem has not been found. It is actually very easy to check if your suspension is firm or not. You just take the F35 fuse out for a few hours, then put it back in, and drive. In this case, the suspension becomes firm and comfortable again for a few hours. But then it's like some sort of adaptation is dialed in, and the bump smoothing is turned off. It's also always soft after height calibration, but again only for a while. The interesting thing is that when the suspension gets stiff, it's like the engine drops into some kind of restriction, and the traction decreases slightly. And it drives fine when the suspension is soft. There are no errors at all. I've also noticed that when the suspension is stiff, the engine vicomuff starts spinning to full power a lot when you start driving. It doesn't when it's soft.
Last edited by Aristarkhov on 11th Apr 2023 10:46 pm. Edited 1 time in total
11th Apr 2023 10:28 pm
Aristarkhov
Member Since: 03 Jan 2016
Location: Tambov
Posts: 12
Jagbusa wrote:
Sorry for my english)
Aristarkhov I wish my Russian was as good as your English
What tyres and pressures do you have?
Hi. I thought about tires first, and tried both highway tires and AT tires, which are inherently softer. Size 255/55/19, pressure 2.3/2.5. It can go soft on the R20 as well, but for some reason it doesn't do it (
11th Apr 2023 10:36 pm
Aristarkhov
Member Since: 03 Jan 2016
Location: Tambov
Posts: 12
Can anyone explain what this piston in the middle valve is for and how it works? Thank you
11th Apr 2023 11:03 pm
Jagbusa
Member Since: 02 Nov 2022
Location: Costa del Blackpool
Posts: 37
Check on you tube the videos by the guy at 4x4 seals knows everything there is to know about the air suspension system and his videos are very good.2009my Discovery 3 2.7V6 HSE
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