Member Since: 27 Sep 2020
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 287
Just had my sills done & the rust had spread into the wheel arches. It was much worse than I was expecting, all hidden by the trim. In fairness I knew it needed doing but it still cost £1600 with the amount of patches that needed to be made for the bottom of arches. It would have been an MOT fail this year had I not bitten the bullet.
Add in a service & some other bits & I’m in for £2500. Ouch!
Good luck with whatever you decide. I took the approach that the it’s a pretty tidy D3 and there’s no other car I’d prefer.Cheers,
Jez
Discovery 3 HSE Stornaway Grey
MY 2008 2.7 TDV6
Discovery 2 2003 - gone
5th Oct 2024 9:00 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14120
Many thks and indeed will see what the welder says and how much work needs to be done
Seems the rusty sills are getting reported more and more as they age seeing mine is nearly 20 x years old
At least the chassis is solid and bodywork is in great condition
Would like to see the condition of one of the new landies in 20 x years time to see how they fare because of the large electrics they have
Hopefully it’s not to far gone but time will tell
Very grateful for the feed back and a big thks
5th Oct 2024 9:21 pm
Naki Blake
Member Since: 31 Dec 2021
Location: Taranaki
Posts: 310
If it was me, and it cost 1.5 to 2K to repair, I would fix it. Ask yourself what would 1.5 to 2K buy you in terms of another car (probably nothing decent), and the initial cost of the vehicle (and money you have invested in it getting it right) you have recouped over the last 8 years in enjoyment and memories.
Get another 8 years of enjoyment out of it.
Have you considered doing a course learning to weld? It's a skill I wish I could do.
All the best with your decision.
5th Oct 2024 10:39 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14120
Many thks and to be honest over the days I’m coming to the realisation of what it would cost to replace in comparison to repairs
If I didn’t have this back issue I would try my best to do it myself , must confess got quite good at stick welding many years ago but haven’t done mig as I assume that would be better to use over arc
Think we all get so attached to our motors seeing we spend a lot of effort in getting it how we want
Someone has very kindly offered to replace my brake pipes front to back FOC for me so that’s a huge worry off my mind , have all the materials for that
Still convinced someone has welded a panel over the original sill , where they’ve got the repair panels and cut the top part off in order not to go into the spot weld area
Hopefully over the next few weeks I’ll get a few quotes in from mobile welders who have been recommended to me from other Land Rover users who’ve seen there work
Am so grateful being able to chat and get advise and can’t thk u and everyone else enough
Plus of course hope this helps others in attaching this thread to the others when people search for sill rust issues
Thks again
5th Oct 2024 11:21 pm
Gary_P
Member Since: 03 May 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 1656
Hi Gary. I’m following your journey on this. I was going to say you’ll probably lose the equivalent of the cost of these repairs in the first year in depreciation on any newer replacement. If you believe that this work will get the car ship shape and major problem free for a few years, then it may be better to stick with the ‘devil you know’.
I’m considering lanogaurd for the underside of my D4, so interested to know whether you still believe a DIY job using it is still worthwhile or whether significant issues like this just occur where you can’t get to with it. I know you were pretty thorough when you did yours.
Good luck.
CheersGary
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Member Since: 18 Jan 2023
Location: Thurrock
Posts: 139
Hope you can get it sorted, you've contributed alot to not just this forum but others, your input has certainly have helped me in a number of occasions.
Good luck.
6th Oct 2024 11:31 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14120
Gary_P wrote:
Hi Gary. I’m following your journey on this. I was going to say you’ll probably lose the equivalent of the cost of these repairs in the first year in depreciation on any newer replacement. If you believe that this work will get the car ship shape and major problem free for a few years, then it may be better to stick with the ‘devil you know’.
I’m considering lanogaurd for the underside of my D4, so interested to know whether you still believe a DIY job using it is still worthwhile or whether significant issues like this just occur where you can’t get to with it. I know you were pretty thorough when you did yours.
Good luck.
Cheers
Many thks as always
Will hopefully be able to update when I get in touch with the welder this week
Must confess I used dinitrol , sorry as I’m not familiar or used lanoguard before
Must confess very happy with the results as the chassis is solid , alas don’t know if that’s down to lr improving the quality of there chassis treatments as it leaves the factory or down to the dinitrol , but would use it again
Alas couldn’t get into the sills so maybe if I had drilled a hole in the side and sprayed dinitrol inside I may not have been in this position but of course no way of knowing
Indeed sprayed every area that was accessible so hope moreover that it can help others of areas that are susceptible to rust in the sills and drilling some holes in order to get some in there will hopefully help reduce the future rust issues in the sills
I did fit some rock sliders on that I sprayed inside and out with dinitrol a few years ago and there still in perfect condition , did drill a few drainage holes in the bottom to ensure water was allowed to drain out
Did take a goes week or so to jet wash , then allow to dry, steam cleaned and then ensured no lose paint or lables , scraped and wire bridged the inns off with the use of power drill wire wheels etc
Does take time but of course benifits in the long run
Hope that helps and will of course update as soon as I get more news and thks again for the great support
7th Oct 2024 1:16 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14120
AdamB wrote:
Hope you can get it sorted, you've contributed alot to not just this forum but others, your input has certainly have helped me in a number of occasions.
Good luck.
Why thk u kind sir as that’s very kind if to say and glad it helped
Must confess its always nice being able to pass it on from the wonderful people from here who were so kind in assisting me when I had issues
Always strong believer of we all do it as a team effort in helping other fellow Land Rover owners and being part of a great team
Forever grateful and will of course update as I get more info , of course would be gut wrenching if it’s gone to far but will just take one day at a time and see how things pan out
Thks again
7th Oct 2024 1:20 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14120
NJSS wrote:
Hi Gary_P
I went for Lanoguard and had it done professionally by "Zagato" aka Chris Calvert. He’s in Billingshurst and I was delighted by the outcome.
Looks a really nice job there and bet ur well pleased with it
So nice to see companies take pride in there work
7th Oct 2024 1:21 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14120
Quick update
So sadly the welder that had been recommended to me lives to far away as in 1 1/2 to 2 x hours , he said if the weather gets bad etc it would be a wasted journey seeing it would be done on my driveway and fully respect that
So wondering if anyone may know anyone around the Swanley, Kent area Plse as can’t find anyone as of yet
Of course don’t mind paying the extra transport fees if they wish to collect it and do the work inside a garage
Would be extremely grateful if anyone may happen to know a welder plse , can’t thk everyone enough for such kind support and messages
Hope everyone has a great week
7th Oct 2024 9:20 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14120
Update
So a very kind member belonging to this and another Land Rover forum has offered me his workshop , tools, welder and time todo the sill replacement and brake lines in the spring time if I just supply the parts and everything else will be FOC
Not surprising I was blown away by such kindness so at least I won’t have to shell out a lot of money
Of course will leave some money for him to pay for his time, electricity , use of welding supplies etc etc
Pricing up the sills which is around £450 for both sides, brake lines , £50 , etc
Wished to at least update this so that it wasn’t left open and will of course take some pics in the spring time as all the old sills come off and new ones go on
Still over welmed by such kindness and how great the Land Rover community is
Massive thks as always and will leave it plugged into my CTEK charger to ensure the battery is kept fully charged , will of course have to go onto a trailor to his workshop
Thks again and watch this space
10th Oct 2024 7:48 pm
Naki Blake
Member Since: 31 Dec 2021
Location: Taranaki
Posts: 310
I'm really pleased you are getting this work done.
My only piece of advice is make sure you keep the workshop smoko room biscuit tin full of chocolate bikkies.
I'm glad someone is repaying you a favour for all the helpful advice you have given on the forums over the years.
Cheers
11th Oct 2024 5:58 am
Gary_P
Member Since: 03 May 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 1656
That is a great outcome. As has been said , your contribution to the LR community has always been appreciated and the very kind offer you have received is a reflection of that. We’ll all be waiting on the edge of our seats for progress updates.Gary
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Great gesture from a genuine person
If he has MIG no doubt he will give you a crash course hopefully, less chance of blow holes and slag removal. far better than stick welding when once you get the knack.
Best of luck
Relocated to Mid France from N. Wales March 2021
Another Gizmo..GAP BT. Let's see how it compares with JLR IDD/SSD v.163
Rovacomlite and IDD/ SSD diagnostics user
Previous Landies
3.9 SE Classic
3.5 V8 Disco
4.6 P38 HSE
L322 Vogue HSE
TD4 ES Freelander 1
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