Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14120
Many thks ,
See u can get new sills for around £60 per side but of course won’t know how bad it will be until I pull the drivers side plastic cover off
Know we all go through this, just abit gutted
18th Sep 2024 8:04 am
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 73078
Strip? It’s very therapeutic.
18th Sep 2024 8:55 am
G3Z
Member Since: 16 Dec 2018
Location: South Wales
Posts: 558
Why not keep it as a slow project repair.
You can pick up some 2nd hand as new rear arms to bring the cost down.Defender 110 2.4 TDCi Utility Station Wagon.
2007 Disco 3 GS TDV6 Manual
200,000+ mile club 😎
18th Sep 2024 8:59 am
DN D3 Decade
Member Since: 23 Jun 2006
Location: W.London.
Posts: 2344
Wow, sorry to hear this Gary. You’ve spent a lot of time ( and no doubt, money ) on it, such a shame. The brake pipes are to be expected I suppose. See how bad the sill is, and if it can be repaired relatively easily. D3 owned from new, P017 brake recall, BAS FBHIC, new FBH, LR013487 oil pump, new water pump. RRS front lower suspension arms. New suspension compressor/ relay. New Denso alternator. CuNifer rear brake pipes. New GKN rear propshaft. New HPFP belt & tensioner. New A/C Condenser.NO WARRANTY for many many years.
18th Sep 2024 9:18 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14120
Many thks and think that’s a great idea to see what bits I need and how bad the sills are
Will be back today or tommorow , could then get the bits over the winter time and then start to save what money I can
May I ask Plse when welding is done is it just the battery that needs to be disconnected plse to prevent any modules etc getting spiked from the welder
Plus what fittings are needed to go from steel to kunifer and if the steel pipes need to be flared
New arms are around 400 inc new bolts and tie bars , must confess would prefer new but would concentrate on the sills and brake pipes first
Plus if I have to sorn the vehicle seeing its no got no mot plse , had road tax till next sep and insurance is still,valid
Indeed like many of us lost count the amount of time I’ve spent on it and of course money , lol
Thks again and gives me some hope but indeed think the rust will be a priority to see how deep it goes
18th Sep 2024 9:41 am
Worms
Member Since: 24 Sep 2023
Location: Highlands
Posts: 395
The steel pipes will need to be flared at the point where you cut them. If you don't already have a flare tool, don't be tempted by some of the cheaper ones on Ebay/Amazon - flaring steel needs a decent tool. I bought steel tube and cut my own, but you can get ready-bent repair sections for the rear, which is probably a better idea - my pipe bending resulted in a bit of a mess, partly because the cut sections got a bit mangled during removal. Kunifer is much easier to work with.
Others will confirm, but I believe that for steel brake pipes, it is recommended to go with steel pipe unions rather than brass.Previously:
2010 FL2 TD4e GS
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW - still got this, non-runner on SORN.
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel
18th Sep 2024 9:57 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10674
Sorry to hear this
It's worth checking if the Rust really is an issue. The D3 isn't like a normal car. I.e the chassis frame is the main structure and the cab and sills just bolt on to the structure.
The structure obviously needs to be good. And seat and seatbelt mounts need to be good.
I would SORN it before the end of the month. Expensive to tax these days and you may as well have the money back for repairs or whatever.
Alternatively have a look at the forsale forum or maybe get a sensible car that doesn't need as much looking after
Last edited by Pete K on 18th Sep 2024 10:06 am. Edited 3 times in total
18th Sep 2024 10:02 am
DN D3 Decade
Member Since: 23 Jun 2006
Location: W.London.
Posts: 2344
If you SORN it, you should get the remaining tax for any whole months, back. Prob best to keep the insurance running.D3 owned from new, P017 brake recall, BAS FBHIC, new FBH, LR013487 oil pump, new water pump. RRS front lower suspension arms. New suspension compressor/ relay. New Denso alternator. CuNifer rear brake pipes. New GKN rear propshaft. New HPFP belt & tensioner. New A/C Condenser.NO WARRANTY for many many years.
18th Sep 2024 10:02 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14120
Many thks, have these brake flaring tools in both sizes , alas not sure if they can do steel pipe , also still have my benders from when I done boiler oil lines etc
Will have a good search ref brake pipes and sills to see what size unions etc I need
At least I know I can get new sills so won’t have to worry in trying to get some made
Another thing I’m very thankful is having such wonderful members here along with a huge library of repairs and for that I can’t begin to say how grateful I am
Plus at least this will help others in getting a list of the bits , but of course need to gauge the rust issue first
Thks again
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
18th Sep 2024 10:10 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14120
DN wrote:
If you SORN it, you should get the remaining tax for any whole months, back. Prob best to keep the insurance running.
Many thks and will look into that and advice ref insurance
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