Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14120
Hi John
Many thks for the info as that’s very helpful , great to hear u still have urs and understand with weighing up the options of repair or replace
Indeed was absolutely gutted when it failed on the rust issue, got to give my neighbour a shout to help me get the covers off
At least the chassis is in great nick after treating it with dinitrol
Often wondered why there arnt any drain holes in the sills and if it would help reduce rust issues
Had it coming up to 8 x years and amazed myself really of all the work that I’ve done on it to get it how I wanted , last year had all new brake discs, pads and calipers
Along with money of course, , but understand many of us do the same
Found a good 3/16” brake pipe cutting tool in my searches as I was looking for a roll of kunifer but of course won’t do anything seeing the rust issue will be my determining factor if it can be saved or not
Indeed great flaring tool and see it had the double flares pics on there as I think the single flares aren’t allowed
Did get a bush kit a few years ago when I done the upper rears , but bought them with the new bushes already in place , used it when I fitted a new hub bush
At the end of the day would be really upset,if I had to go , know it’s only a car but such a joy to drive
Many thks once again and will update the thread with some pics of the rust as soon as I gain access
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22nd Sep 2024 4:33 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10674
I think the double flare is just the way to get the right shape on the end of the pipe, suitable for LR.
For example if it was a German or maybe Japanese car you may single flare
22nd Sep 2024 5:38 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14120
Bless u as always Pete , alas I always thought brake pipe had to have a double flares for high pressure systems , curiously don’t know what the pressures are between a high and low system
Indeed u saying that makes alot of sense according to the pictures where they show a concave and convex types of flares
Must confess never known what an average brake system produces pressure wise , will have to look it up , yeh I know I need to get out more
Thk again and have a great Sunday mate
22nd Sep 2024 6:32 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14120
Well that’s resolved my curiosity
Even though we need to use generic values to calculate the brake fluid pressure, it typically remains somewhere between 300 PSI to 500 PSI during standard braking. However, it can be raised to 600 PSI if a person pushes the brake in panic or with a jerk.
In case of a complete panic stop, the measurement can reach up to 800 PSI on the rear brake and about 1500 PSI to 2000 PSI on the front brakes.
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5040
You can see the applied brake pressure with your GAP tool if want to satisfy your curiosity.
gstuart wrote:
Often wondered why there arnt any drain holes in the sills and if it would help reduce rust issues
There are drains Gary at the corrugations beneath the sills. They become blocked very easily and so annual cleaning and dressing is highly recommended. You don't have to remove the sill cover for access!
Hopefully it's not too late for you to address or repair and you'll have her back asap. yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
22nd Sep 2024 2:03 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14120
Hi mate
Many thks as always and do have some nozzles etc and drain kit that I can attach to my karcher to blast everything out and an endoscope to check inside the sills
Me to mate , as indeed after all the hard work fingers crossed it’s not too bad
Have found some outer and inner sill panels so at least that’s half the battle knowing I can get them if so req
Will of course update the thread once I gain access to the sills , moreover I hope it helps others in the future
Thks as didn’t know that about the gap iid
Very grateful as always my friend
23rd Sep 2024 8:10 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14120
Oh dear
The rear wheel arch is ok as peeled back the liner
Looks as though the inner lower part is the part that’s rusted away
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3rd Oct 2024 8:16 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14120
Found a picture of the inner construction of the sill
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Last edited by gstuart on 3rd Oct 2024 9:14 pm. Edited 1 time in total
3rd Oct 2024 9:08 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5040
Looks bad enough in places Gary but I'm surprised your MOT station didn't flag this earlier!!
That level of corrosion didn't happen since your last MOT, and had you been given a timely advisory you'd have had the opportunity to arrest the problem long before now.
Anyway, that's little comfort to you now, what will you do?yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
3rd Oct 2024 9:09 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14120
Indeed my friend and really annoyed nothing was mentioned to me by the previous mot station as ur so right could have addressed it a lot earlier
Went to a new mot station Plus got to check the other side but nothing was mentioned however will get that sill cover off as well to double check
Think my deciding factor will be what the mobile welders says and costs
The new mot station said for them to do it would be a good 2K so that’s out
As a side note , see the chassis is solid so suppose that’s one saving grace and proves how well the dinitrol works
At the end of the day really upset as these sills may be the end of all the hard work that I’ve done for the last 8 x years where I’ve looked after it the best I could and putting things right
There’s also the rusty brake pipes front to back , assume they don’t rust over a 1 x year period , but of course that’s an easy fix in comparison
3rd Oct 2024 9:24 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14120
Forgot to add, inner and outer sills are £200:per side so can get them if the welder thinks it can be repaired at a reasonable cost
Hope this helps others in the future of ensuring the sills are checked yearly
3rd Oct 2024 9:28 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14120
Looks like that outer sill plate as been spot welded on and can see the lip along the top
Wonder if a dremel will zip through the spot welds ?
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3rd Oct 2024 9:50 pm
Jamiehol
Member Since: 13 Nov 2015
Location: Ipswich
Posts: 387
Outer sill is spot welded to the middle strengthening panel, I’d use a sport weld drill bit to separate the outer and middle panel.
Here is a couple of pictures from when I repaired the sills on mine about 18 months ago.
4th Oct 2024 5:46 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14120
Thk u so much as that’s very helpful
Cracking job u done there mate and will get some better pics during the day
I’ll then see if I can start stripping it back to try and make life easier for the welder in job and price
Thks again
4th Oct 2024 7:08 pm
Jamiehol
Member Since: 13 Nov 2015
Location: Ipswich
Posts: 387
Thanks, yes stripping back as much as you can to give a good view of what needs cutting is a good idea.
In my case it was only the back 18 inches, so I didn’t buy panels I just made them myself as I’ve got access to a small vice held sheet metal bender and they aren’t complicated panels. Once all the trim was removed etc I probably had a day of work to fab up and weld in the sill panels.
What took the time in my case was fabricating replacement panels for the inner wheel arch.
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, but understand many of us do the same
