Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10676
In summary you get more problems enabling cd than benefits
It can detect an open circuit camera and flag a fault code.
Maybe later screens don’t change the screen if it knows the camera is faulty.
If I was you I would try using the tv input or
Venture cam input before considering gvif
18th Nov 2020 9:54 pm
GBRover
Member Since: 07 Jan 2020
Location: Green Bay, WI
Posts: 37
Yeah, thats a good summary on the CD. I may continue to try different CCF setups, but pretty sure what I posted is a good as it gets. I personally dont even use CDs, I am just trying to get an LR4 portable audio module to work - but due to CAN bus changes that may never be possible. As of right now its on MOST ring and relaying the network, just dormant since it has no permission to be online. If CAN was not changed in MY10 it would be an easy upgrade, but apparently even the Range Rover had a CAN update, not just the Disco4. Still, I am persistent and seeing if I can really get on-screen iPod controls to work in some way.
Good though on the other camera setups. Will see what I come up with once I have a camera in hand to play with. You could be right on the fault issue, if so that would be great. Will update this weekend.
Last edited by GBRover on 18th Nov 2020 10:24 pm. Edited 1 time in total
18th Nov 2020 10:00 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10676
Myself and at least one other person shares the cd problems. It’s in the thread somewhere
18th Nov 2020 10:12 pm
GBRover
Member Since: 07 Jan 2020
Location: Green Bay, WI
Posts: 37
Small update on my backup camera. I have my D4 nav unit in about 20 parts, so I borrowed my neighbors D4 display. They were produced just 20 days apart. Their software/hardware versions are identical. The difference is mine shows the "cameras" button, greyed out, and his does not. But what was more interesting is when installed in my truck and going in reverse the black screen with the maneuvering warning comes up.
So thats a bit odd. If the hardware was a different version I would suspect there is more to these units than meets the eyes. I am starting to wonder if some units are different for the very specific vehicle being installed into. Again I can still not explain why my proximity cameras are shown as installed and why I have a button. There is nothing in the CCF to edit proximity cameras. His unit in my vehicle does not show the button and says they are not fitted. So for now, that looks like a setting specific to my D4 nav unit and its somehow stored internally.
This is just info I am sharing for the curious as I have no explanation but *might* be handy for those that cant get a backup camera to work without a GVIF module. I have a third D4 unit coming and will see how that one behaves in my truck. I will probably disassemble it too and compare boards.
22nd Nov 2020 3:07 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10676
what version of IID firmware are you running ?
22nd Nov 2020 3:35 pm
GBRover
Member Since: 07 Jan 2020
Location: Green Bay, WI
Posts: 37
All the latest as of about a month ago, the last time I checked for any, so 4.XX. And I have it the unconfirmed list of CCF also.
22nd Nov 2020 3:37 pm
GBRover
Member Since: 07 Jan 2020
Location: Green Bay, WI
Posts: 37
Backlight stuff...
So having backlight control would be nice, obviously more so at night. Easy enough to turn the display off but then what is the point of having it. I think someone asked about the lighting type, was pretty sure LED and after opening the display portion that is correct. A series of LEDs on one edge of the display.
I was hoping to install a photoresistor of sorts inline with the lighting, just go direct to the source and control it there. But my knowledge here is limited. I dont know if these are controlled via PWM or not, I assume so but have no way of testing. The lighting cable has five small wires with one being red. The good news is there are wires that are easy enough to snip, solder and modify for the lighting. There are no traces to track, they lighting traces are layered inside the PCB, not in the front or back layer.
And going back to pin one on the LR diagrams for the display, the pin that says "illumination" yet shows no wire. I metered it and its a dead end but leads to a set of two pads. But both of those pads seem to simply bridge to the ground plane. So I am not sure if pin one was every really an illumination input. Again in that case I was hoping that installing a bridge on the PCB would "activate" illumination input at some basic level. Does not appear to be the case.
So some pics for the one a lot more knowledgable than me. I will have this display apart for a while and try to take lots of pics of each PCB and such.
Edit: I suppose one, maybe simple solution, would be to replace the LED strip with a new one that has its own external power, controller, etc. Random thought of the day...
Last edited by GBRover on 22nd Nov 2020 6:41 pm. Edited 1 time in total
I have the D4 screen in my car and I had to fit a Gvif unit in mine because no matter what I tried I could not get my reversing camera to work..
Flack
22nd Nov 2020 6:03 pm
GBRover
Member Since: 07 Jan 2020
Location: Green Bay, WI
Posts: 37
Backlight update, again.
Good news, the LEDs are nothing special/fancy it seems. I was able to power them up with a direct connection. The cable to the backlight has one positive, four negatives. From 9.5v to 14.5v with smooth dimming. Any lower than 9v and they are basically off, too dim to see.
The catch is when I metered, on my very basic digital meter, I was reading 7.5v with the display hooked up and running with the entire unit. That tends to make me think they are normally driven with PWM? Because at 7.5v directly driven they are not even on, I had it operating at just over 14v. If so, then direct DC power may overheat/burn out the LEDs? Anyone know how all that works or would it be okay to drive them directly?
My next step will be to source a photocell module of some sort that has adjustability so the lowest voltage would be about 8v - and ideally outputs PWM. I do have a PWM module on hand already. While I would like to use the Rover's native illumination setup, I am not sure it would work well. I, for example, have my dimmer set all the way down and I alway drive with my lights on. So if I used the native output my display would always be dark.
I did buy an Arduino where I will input 14v into it and see if it can handle things. But I am pretty sure it will fry, the voltage and amperage is at the very limits of the board at full brightness and 14v. I am looking for a voltage regulator that can take varying voltage input and output an adjusted steady 13v, so even when the vehicle voltage is running high the Arduino is not getting abused. The advantage of the Arduino is its easy setup with a photoresistor and I *think* its programing ability where full resistance at the photoresistor in total darkness can still produce a lit display by adjusting the minimum PWM numbers. Will update when I get all this figured out, of course.
EDIT #2
I have the Arduino programed and works as I wanted. Awesome little device. One issue was that while I can input 12v, it also gets regulated down to 5v. The LEDs will not illuminate at that PWM level. But the programing works. A simple photocell will determine backlight brightness. And the advantage of the Arduino is programmability by having a minimum set duty cycle of the display when the photocell is in total darkness. So the screen will not shut off in total darkness. Also I have it setup that the screen will be at full brightness even if the photocell is not quite saturated. That will reduce display fluctuations during the day as the vehicle moves between full sun and shadows.
So I have two more modules coming. One regulates voltage for the Arduino. So not matter what voltage comes in, it will be reduced to 10v. A nice safe level for the Arduino module, but I may not need this (see below). Then I need to "boost" the PWM signal to vehicle voltage. Thats a small board that will be here Friday. It takes the Arduino PWM output and a separate DC input and matches the PWM signal.
Originally there would have been one issue, when one pressed the display off button on the touch screen the LCD backlighting would still be on since its externally driven. I might be able to drive the Arduino off the LEDs original power. But its PWM, so not sure if the regulators will level it out or not so the board can run properly. That will be my next experiment.
EDIT #3
Final update on my Arduino module! It works really well! I put the photocell under a small Fresnel lens I sourced and mounted it to the center speaker. Gives it a nice finished look. The Arduino module itself sits to the right of the display and down in an opening in the dash frame.
One thing I noticed, and maybe its just me, but during daylight the screen seems much brighter. I noticed before this project that in bright situations the backlight never seemed vivid/bright enough. I assumed it was at full brightness but now I think maybe it defaults to about 80% duty cycle. And I will note that I did not even push it to full brightness in my code with max being 96% duty cycle to keep the LEDs from overheating.
The only thing I need to do yet is polish the code a little.
Last edited by GBRover on 29th Nov 2020 9:07 pm. Edited 1 time in total
23rd Nov 2020 2:09 am
GBRover
Member Since: 07 Jan 2020
Location: Green Bay, WI
Posts: 37
Flack wrote:
I have the D4 screen in my car and I had to fit a Gvif unit in mine because no matter what I tried I could not get my reversing camera to work..
Flack
Three D4 nav units (US models). All three hav the same hardware and software version. All the same map version. Only my original, with the stuck setting/button for Proximity Cameras, would not show reverse. The neighbors and my new display work fine. Opened them up just to check for hardware variations, nothing. So I have no clue too, very odd.
In other news, I pondered the ability to get map updates by cloning hard drives from another updated truck. Thinking since ours does not register the VIN, just maybe... Well maybe not. I swap drives between two units and it said maps would not load AND it was stuck on a blank screen with no option to back out of unless you were a Ninja when the "agree" screen comes up. I think it actually may have less to do with the hard drive software and might actually be the ATA secured connection. I think the hard drive and ATA connection are "mated". So a new hard drive that has been mated in another unit may never, ever work. I won't give any effort into it, but cloning an updated drive to a new "unmated" drive might work. For now though, getting an updated hard drive and swapping is not an option.
27th Nov 2020 8:11 pm
Jong0211
Member Since: 07 Feb 2021
Location: Warwickshire
Posts: 99
I think I was sent the wrong screen 😭😭
18th Feb 2021 9:40 am
Motolab
Member Since: 18 Oct 2019
Location: Sleen
Posts: 1820
what is see on your printscreen, is that they sent what you ordered.... (the wrong one)
the right one is here in this topic.... also image in flack hit manual..Best regards
Harold
Always looking for Pre '55's & Pre war British Motorcycles! knowing or having one for sale? PM please. I visit the UK 6 times a year
Ps. I edit my texts quite often, english is not my native language, so I will edit My “typo’s” etc.
18th Feb 2021 9:47 am
Jong0211
Member Since: 07 Feb 2021
Location: Warwickshire
Posts: 99
That’s what I meant!
My question is, does it have to be the exact same part number as in flacks? There are a few variations although look the same!
Also, struggling to find the napkin connectors mentioned
18th Feb 2021 10:55 am
Motolab
Member Since: 18 Oct 2019
Location: Sleen
Posts: 1820
maybe PeteK will kick in soon
but as far as i know, the layout on the back as a guideline is more important than the exact partnumber ...
regarding camera connection i did use a part of another connector i had...... as long as it fits on the pins...
the other connectors are easy to buyBest regards
Harold
Always looking for Pre '55's & Pre war British Motorcycles! knowing or having one for sale? PM please. I visit the UK 6 times a year
Ps. I edit my texts quite often, english is not my native language, so I will edit My “typo’s” etc.
18th Feb 2021 11:11 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10676
Bosch units with the row of 4 round coloured connectors are not suitable
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