Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
Thats interesting
A quick google seems to suggest the cooler stats were only fitted on Euro4 models VIN 7A000001 onwards?
16th Oct 2016 8:30 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10676
When I blanked my EGR's I noticed it took alot longer to get upto temperature.
An inspection of the hoses shows the temperature sensor is fitted in the EGR cooler loop.
Therefore:
1) The exhaust gasses helps heat up the coolant quickly from cold
2) If the EGR's are blanked maybe coolant doesn't circulate very well through that circuit.
3) If you have blocked off the coolant circuit to the EGR's I'm not surprised the temp sensor isn't reading correctly as there is no flow past it. I don't know whether you have done this?
I considered it, but then saw the sensor wouldn't have any flow past it
16th Oct 2016 9:41 am
defector
Member Since: 23 Feb 2009
Location: Greater Manchester
Posts: 1471
Yes the stats are on 7A models (Euro4) as can be seen in the outlet. I didn't realise they were not on ealier D3 although they use a different coolant circuit so probably regulated by the main thermostat.
The temperature sensor on 7A on models has been moved to a T piece on the main top radiator hose instead of the EGR coolant feed, and so i am confident the temperature displayed is correct.
I will, however, be fitting an additional teperature gauge with independant sensor at some stage as i do not trust most in car gauges - most small medium cars don't even have temperature gauges nowdays
The coolant feed for the EGR's in EU4 models is taken directly from a hose from the main plastic thermostat body which has an additional outlet compared to earlier D3 thermostats although they are essentially the same and a EU4 one could be used on earelier model by blanking that one particular port. Can't use earlier to EU4 though.
I had blanked completely the hose for the nearside EGR cooler hoping that that would help but there is still a bypass on the offside cooler so will be looking to put the thermostat there.
I am sure i could probably just blank the EGR coolant hose entirely but without a coolant diagram for the EU4 model i'm not sure if it also feeds the heater matrix as seems to be the case with earlier model.
16th Oct 2016 2:22 pm
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8225
I blank my radiator off with a piece of cardboard every winter never had any problems with overheating.It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
16th Oct 2016 3:59 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 73081
She got a bit toasty on a section of fast sweeping uphill hairpins in the Pyrenees. Also typical temps for off-roading with naff all airflow through the rad.
Click image to enlarge
16th Oct 2016 4:31 pm
defector
Member Since: 23 Feb 2009
Location: Greater Manchester
Posts: 1471
M3DPO wrote:
I blank my radiator off with a piece of cardboard every winter never had any problems with overheating.
Actually not a bad idea although i know some people shun it.
I know some in the black cab trade always do it in winter.
Del, some high temperatures there. If i was doing that regular i would be inclined to fit a separate auto transmission cooler.
16th Oct 2016 4:58 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 73081
Next major jolly is Ice Fest so not needed there, then Ireland in April, again not needed, after that E Finland up to North Cape so deffo not needed then.
Just don't tell SWMBO re the last one, she doesn't know about that. Yet.
16th Oct 2016 5:32 pm
defector
Member Since: 23 Feb 2009
Location: Greater Manchester
Posts: 1471
Decided to blank the offside EGR cooler supply and return hoses (supply to nearside cooler already done).
I removed the fan cowl to see if the EGR hoses also supply the heater matrix, but from what i could see they didn't so i took the chance.
Took it for a 15 mile drive, outside temperature 9 degrees, temperature gauge up to halfway mark in 4 - 5 miles and the gauge did not fluctuate from there either downhill or uphill or level ground and the heater seems to work normally................ except it started to cool so had to crank the temp settings up so checked the forum as i suspect the internal sensor may be the culprit (ok, another BMW issue i have come across in the past) to suggestions from the forum that it needs a sock will look into that.
Stopped at petrol station and put IR thermometer to cylinder head and top hose outlet showing 80 degrees...........good enough for me considering earlier values.
I blank my radiator off with a piece of cardboard every winter never had any problems with overheating.
Actually not a bad idea although i know some people shun it.
I know some in the black cab trade always do it in winter.
Del, some high temperatures there. If i was doing that regular i would be inclined to fit a separate auto transmission cooler.
Its a bad idea.
If your thermostat is working correctly it will sort itself out. You could be running the fbh when its not required for a start.
Taxi drivers are a law unto themselves and wouldn't assume they are right!Mark.
2006, D3 SE Auto - gone but not forgotten.
2014 BMW 530d M Sport Tourer.
1977 Triumph Spitfire 1500
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17th Oct 2016 5:36 am
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
Ive ran rad muffs on older tdi engines and they work well, but you need to keep a very close eye on the temp gauge as when worked hard the temp can shoot up in the blink of an eye, Ive even had one nearly heat seize before and that was in sub zero temps!
17th Oct 2016 6:00 am
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8225
I don't completely cover the rad, more like 3/4s. I can't see why the FBH would run more, I would have thought less as the engine will warm up faster, in theory any way as it will also decrease cold air flow to the engine as well as the rad.It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
17th Oct 2016 2:45 pm
aman
Member Since: 09 Feb 2014
Location: London
Posts: 285
[quote="defector"]My D3 was running cool and the fuel economy has not been what i expect given the driving style. I had my suspicions as to why.......
How long did it take you to replace the thermostat? Is it part number LR009562? Cheers
8th Nov 2016 8:26 pm
defector
Member Since: 23 Feb 2009
Location: Greater Manchester
Posts: 1471
That number relates to a thermostat for the 2.7 EU4 engine Vin 7A onwards, although it can be used on previous versions but one of the stubs will need to be blocked.
Best getting the correct version.
It took me about hour and half but i had the benefit of a two poster ramp. There are a hell of a lot of pipes going into one thermostat and it is wise to remember the order they are removed to make it easy for reassembly.
PS. I appreciate the reply is late but i didn't recall seeing the question, however it will be useful for others.
3rd May 2017 11:11 pm
aman
Member Since: 09 Feb 2014
Location: London
Posts: 285
Thanks!
4th May 2017 12:14 am
PerthDisco
Member Since: 21 Jun 2010
Location: Perth
Posts: 87
Adding to this thread I recently replaced the radiator and coolant hose bundle on an EU4 2.7TDV6.
Initially I looped a new hose between the EGR supply hose and EGR return where it T's into the heater matrix return and heads back into the thermostat body.
This configuration would not allow the car to warm up above 57 degrees.
I crimped the bypass hose and it warms up and runs to normal temperatures.
Obviously the EGR thermostats make a difference to the flow as the return to the thermostat still has the heater matrix flow which has a seperate supply on the EU4 models via the coolant outlet in the V. The additional flow from the direct bypass hose seems to bypass the main thermostat too much since it directly returns to the water pump inlet barb.
So it appears the only option is to blank off the EGR circuit.
On inspection of the EGR supply hose where it T's off the main coolant hose this T is some sort of thermostat or diverter also. When cold it allows flow from the top radiator hose side only through the T to EGR circuit. The other side of the T runs to the cold side of the thermostat next to the bottom radiator hose. Hard to fathom that unless when this thermostat opens it flows direct to the thermostat removing flow from the EGR loop to avoid additional heat possibly?
Checking if anyone has been running a blanked off EGR cooling circut for some years now with no secondary issues? I imagine the coolers don't self destruct without the cooling circuit? If I ever body off I will remove the plumbing but for now leave it all ready to reconnect. Thanks.
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